The host of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place shares why cheese is worthy of a lifelong quest, exploring its deep connections to history, land, and humanity.

For over a quarter-century, the venerable Australian cheese legend Will Studd has embarked on a singular mission: to unravel the profound mysteries embedded within every wheel and wedge of cheese. His inquiries have always stretched far beyond mere sensory delight, delving into the intricate tapestry of its origins, the ancient traditions that molded its character, and the seismic shifts that occur when these traditions clash with the relentless forces of regulation, industrialization, consolidation, and evolving consumer desires. What, he asks, is truly forfeited when cheese becomes estranged from its native soil and the skilled hands that crafted it?

These profound questions form the very bedrock of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, Studd’s latest and most ambitious documentary series. Far from being just another project, Studd describes it as a "legacy project," a culmination of decades spent traversing the globe as a celebrated cheese educator, affineur, author, and filmmaker. The series masterfully navigates between the hallowed, historic cheesemaking regions of Europe and the vibrant, ever-evolving American artisan cheese landscape. Through this journey, Studd meticulously explores foundational concepts such as raw milk and terroir, alongside contemporary challenges like succession planning, scaling operations, and the perennial struggle to preserve a cheese’s unique character amidst escalating demand.

In an exclusive interview with Culture Media, Studd offered a glimpse into his expansive understanding of "taste of place" – a concept he has pursued relentlessly throughout his illustrious career. He shared insights into the unforgettable cheesemakers and conversations that resonated long after filming concluded, and articulated his unwavering conviction that artisan cheese – and the intrepid individuals tenacious enough to produce it – possesses a future undeniably worth safeguarding.

The Genesis of a Quest: Will Studd’s Enduring Legacy

Will Studd’s journey into the heart of cheese began more than 25 years ago, propelled by a profound curiosity that transcended the surface-level appreciation of flavor. A pioneer in introducing artisan European cheeses to Australian palates, Studd quickly became an acclaimed affineur, maturing cheeses to their peak perfection. His expertise naturally extended to education, leading him to author several influential books and, eventually, to the screen. His earlier documentary series, Cheese Slices, which aired in 22 countries and spanned 62 episodes, established him as a global authority and an engaging storyteller.

Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place is not merely a continuation but a distillation of this lifetime of dedication. It represents Studd’s most comprehensive effort to answer the fundamental questions that have preoccupied him: How do geographical features, climate, animal breeds, traditional practices, and the human element converge to create a cheese that truly embodies its origin? And crucially, what happens when these delicate ecosystems are threatened by modern pressures? The series acts as both an homage to tradition and a critical examination of the forces shaping the future of artisan cheese. It underscores his belief that understanding cheese is not just about culinary pleasure, but about appreciating a tangible link to history, ecology, and human ingenuity.

Defining "Taste of Place": A Deep Dive into Terroir and Tradition

The central theme of Studd’s documentary, "taste of place," is a concept often discussed but rarely explored with such depth. When asked to define this phrase after his extensive travels, Studd offered a nuanced perspective, emphasizing the critical role of raw milk.

"I strongly believe that only cheese made from raw milk can claim to reflect a pure and authentic taste of place," Studd stated unequivocally. "Cheese made from unpasteurized milk represents the ultimate expression of the craft of cheesemaking and offers interesting flavor, diversity, and respect for integrity."

His stance highlights the microbial complexity inherent in raw milk, which carries the unique flora of the animal, its diet, and the immediate environment—factors that contribute directly to the cheese’s distinctive flavor profile. This, for Studd, is the purest manifestation of terroir.

However, Studd is also pragmatic, acknowledging that the definition is not entirely rigid. "I also acknowledge that there are many delicious and interesting artisan cheeses made from pasteurized milk that have credible connections to place of origin." He pointed out that pasteurization, while altering the microbial landscape, doesn’t entirely sever a cheese’s link to its geographical and cultural heritage. The series, therefore, presents both raw milk and pasteurized cheese narratives, inviting viewers to form their own conclusions about what truly constitutes a "taste of place." This open-ended approach encourages critical thinking, moving beyond dogmatism to embrace the diverse realities of modern cheesemaking.

A Journey of Discovery: Unforeseen Revelations from the Field

Filming documentaries, especially those as immersive as Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, inevitably unearths unexpected revelations, even for a seasoned expert like Studd. He recounted several moments that genuinely surprised him or challenged long-held assumptions.

"Filming cheese always offers intriguing surprises," Studd recalled with enthusiasm. He shared an anecdote from Wisconsin, where he filmed with cheesemaker Andy Hatch. "I never knew that cow’s breath could be used as an indicator of milk quality until I filmed with Andy Hatch." This revelation speaks volumes about the intuitive, deeply ingrained knowledge possessed by traditional cheesemakers, a wisdom passed down through generations that often escapes scientific documentation. It suggests a holistic understanding of the animal and its environment that goes far beyond conventional metrics.

Another surprising insight came from Delphine Carles in France. "Delphine Carles changed my assumption that May was the best month to produce Roquefort—try January," Studd noted, highlighting the seasonal nuances and precise timing critical to iconic cheeses. In Cyprus, he discovered that "the type of milk and size of Halloumi was once strictly regional on the island," revealing the historical specificity and geographical distinctiveness of even seemingly familiar cheeses. And in Greece, he uncovered Galotyri, an ancient shepherd’s cheese, which he believes "is perhaps the world’s oldest surviving spreadable cheese," a testament to the enduring legacy of simple, yet profound, culinary innovations. These discoveries underscore the series’ commitment to uncovering hidden histories and challenging preconceived notions, proving that even after decades, there’s always more to learn in the world of cheese.

The Power of the Lens: Communicating Cheese Beyond Taste

Documentaries inherently ask viewers to pause, observe, and absorb. Studd hopes his series will encourage a deeper appreciation for cheese, prompting audiences to notice details they might have previously overlooked. "Every episode has a theme, and we have tried to layer them with interesting yet diverse stories and unusual information," he explained.

He offered the example of filming the renaissance of Camembert Fernier in Normandy. "We looked at the history of Marie Harel and how her statue was rebuilt with American dairy donations after the head was blown off in World War II." Such historical nuggets, interwoven with the cheesemaking narrative, add layers of cultural significance and human drama, making the subject more relatable and memorable. Studd believes "curious viewers, and cheese lovers, will be intrigued by the information long after they have watched the show."

Studd also reflected on the unique power of film as a medium for storytelling. While he has authored books, he noted, "If you want to make a difference, film wins!" He explained that the reach of his Cheese Slices series, streaming globally for 25 years, far surpassed the limited print runs of his books. Film, he argues, has an unparalleled ability to engage a broad audience, bringing complex stories to life visually and emotionally.

A significant challenge in filming cheese is its inherently sensory nature – film cannot convey aroma or flavor. Studd tackled this by focusing on the narrative and visual journey. "One of the great joys of sharing a truly exceptional cheese is that its character speaks for itself," he said. While direct tasting is impossible, the series aims to "take the viewer on a beautiful visual journey and tell the story behind the origin of a cheese in pictures to get them emotionally hooked on the idea, as well as explain what to look out for in terms of flavor." The goal is to evoke the experience, painting a vivid picture that stirs curiosity and desire.

Working with award-winning documentarian Stuart Goodman significantly refined Studd’s storytelling approach. "Stuart spent considerable time researching and cross-checking my original concept and added depth," Studd explained. "We had many long discussions about what should and should not be included, and I learned a great deal about storytelling from the process." Goodman’s passion for production details, including commissioning a Mozart piano concerto for the soundtrack, underscored the meticulous effort to create a compelling and artful narrative.

The American Artisan Cheese Revolution: From Niche to World-Class

A significant portion of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place celebrates the remarkable journey of American cheesemakers. Studd, having filmed extensively in the US over the past 25 years, has witnessed a transformative evolution. "Looking back to those early days while making this documentary, it is amazing to see the changes," he reflected. "Artisan cheese is no longer just the dream of a few alternative counterculture dreamers."

He pointed to a burgeoning consumer demand for cheeses with distinctive flavors, textures, and aromas as the catalyst for this "revolution." "There is now a US cheese culture, and it’s no surprise that American artisan cheese is considered world-class, and now winning notable international awards." This shift represents a profound cultural maturation, moving away from a landscape dominated by industrial, often bland, products to one that embraces diversity and craftsmanship.

Filming in the US also offered Studd new perspectives. He noted America’s historical influence on industrial cheesemaking and found the resurgence of artisan interest "very encouraging." He cited the "confidence in a sustainable future," exemplified by state-of-the-art dairy facilities like those at Jasper Hill Farm. Studd was particularly inspired by Mateo Kehler’s explanation of how his team "is ensuring interesting flavor using time-honored traditional techniques." On a smaller scale, Andy Hatch at Uplands demonstrated a similar commitment, substantially increasing production "without compromise to quality or integrity." The documentary also features insights from prominent figures like Dr. Catherine Donnelly, Ed Behr, and Cathy Strange, collectively illustrating the struggles and triumphs of American artisan cheesemakers challenging the status Quo.

Navigating Success: The Universal Challenges of Artisan Cheesemaking

Despite the diversity in scale and style among American producers, Studd identified a unifying challenge: the paradox of success. "The most common thread was the challenge of success—how to grow without losing the fundamental character and diverse flavors of the original cheese," he observed. This delicate balancing act is central to the artisan ethos, where authenticity and quality must never be sacrificed for volume.

Beyond this core dilemma, cheesemakers across the board grappled with a host of practical concerns. "Increasing consumer demand, higher finance and operating costs, regulation, changes to counter service, and creeping corporate consolidation offers were also raised," Studd explained. These external pressures create a complex environment where passion alone is insufficient; business acumen and strategic foresight are equally crucial.

Moreover, the "dilemma on succession is not unique to artisan cheesemakers in the US," Studd highlighted, drawing a parallel to the similar challenges faced by small, family-owned dairies in France. This universal concern about who will carry on the traditions and the business underscores the fragility of these operations and the urgent need for sustainable models to ensure their longevity.

Stewarding Heritage: Tradition, Innovation, and the Future

The film features many producers who are not just cheesemakers but also custodians of ancestral traditions. Studd addressed the delicate balance between preserving these legacies and embracing innovation. "There is no doubt that respecting tradition and protecting time-honored cheesemaking techniques from extinction is important," he affirmed. However, he also acknowledged that "change is not always harmful. Cheese has always evolved in response to circumstance."

He articulated a compelling argument that the artisan cheese revival itself is a testament to this adaptive evolution. While traditional cheesemaking faced its greatest threats over the past five decades, "the artisan cheese revival has ironically been created by consumers fed up with the growth of predictable bland industrial cheese." This consumer-driven demand has spurred artisan cheesemakers to "adapt traditional techniques to innovate exciting new cheese with a point of difference," demonstrating that tradition and innovation can coexist and even thrive together.

Conversations that Linger: The Human Element of Cheese

Studd recalled numerous memorable conversations, but one stood out for its emotional resonance: his interaction with David Gremmels, the visionary creator of the acclaimed Rogue River Blue. "I was with David when he launched the cheese with Neal’s Yard Dairy in London almost 20 years ago with the help of Cathy Strange," Studd reminisced. The powerful moment captured on film, however, was starkly different. "We filmed in the car park outside the creamery on the day the large French group, Savencia, took ownership of the Rogue business because he was locked out."

Witnessing Gremmels letting go of his dream was profoundly moving for Studd. "It was difficult to see David letting go of his dream, and only time will tell how the takeover will shape his legacy." This conversation underscores the deeply personal connection cheesemakers have to their craft and the profound impact of corporate consolidation on individual legacies and the artisan movement as a whole.

This anecdote also speaks to a broader theme Studd observed: "The artisan cheese movement is built on close relationships and shared goals. It probably sounds like hype, but it is not just about business, but an obsession: a cause to support and believe in with like-minded people." He described cheesemakers as driven by a passion for "creating diverse, game-changing cheese with a taste of place." Studd felt "incredibly fortunate to interview some brilliant cheesemakers, and their dedication, skill, patience, and intuition is truly extraordinary. Trying to capture what motivates them on film is utterly fascinating."

Beyond Geography: People, Culture, and the Essence of Terroir

The concept of terroir is often narrowly defined by geographical factors, but Studd argues that "taste of place" encompasses a much broader spectrum, intrinsically linking it to people and culture. "The concept of terroir begins with good quality raw milk from healthy animals in a strictly defined region," he explained. However, this is merely the starting point. "A complex and intricate web of factors, including people and culture, influence the type and character of the cheese."

He highlighted a fascinating comparison within the series between Salers Tradition and Kirkham’s Lancashire, which "underlines how important geography, people, and culture are to terroir." These cheeses, though distinct, share a deep connection to their local ecosystems and the human practices that have shaped them over centuries. Studd also raised thought-provoking questions about "the future implications of clean raw milk devoid of microbes for raw milk cheese, and the growing influence of modern industrial starters," hinting at the potential erosion of true terroir even in the pursuit of hygiene or consistency.

Cultivating Conscious Consumers: The Documentary’s Broader Mission

For Studd, the documentary’s purpose extends far beyond merely showcasing delicious cheeses; it aims to foster a more informed and discerning consumer base. "There is a growing consumer awareness of what we eat, how it is made and where it comes from," he noted. This heightened consciousness is crucial for the artisan cheese sector. "There is no point in making exceptional artisan cheese if consumers don’t understand what is available and why it is different."

He expressed a clear hope: "I hope in making this documentary series that it will help viewers understand the diverse choice of artisan cheeses available and raise questions about what they choose to eat." By empowering viewers with knowledge about the origins, processes, and challenges behind artisan cheese, Studd seeks to encourage more mindful consumption and support for traditional, quality-driven producers. This aligns with a broader movement towards ethical and sustainable food systems, where appreciation extends beyond taste to encompass the entire journey from farm to table.

Optimism for the Future: A French Lesson and an Unfinished Journey

Despite the numerous challenges facing artisan cheesemakers, Studd remains remarkably optimistic about their future. His confidence is rooted in consumer power and the enduring appeal of quality. "There is a great future for artisan cheese as long as makers continue to produce tastier, more interesting cheese with a point of difference," he asserted.

He drew a compelling parallel to France, a nation revered for its cheese culture. "You only have to look at France—where there are now more dedicated cheese shops than McDonald’s—to believe in the power of consumer choice." This statistic serves as a powerful testament to the resilience and desirability of artisan products when given a fair chance in the market. It suggests that, despite the global reach of fast food and industrial products, there remains a deep-seated human desire for authenticity, craftsmanship, and flavor.

Reflecting on his "legacy project," Studd shared a sense of profound accomplishment. "This series is a legacy project to explain why artisan cheese has value and deserves a rightful place on the table," he said. The endeavor was arduous, marked by "many false starts and more than three years to complete," and was "entirely self-funded." Yet, the satisfaction of seeing it through is palpable. "It would be great to make another, but if it turns out to be the last, that is OK. I have achieved what I set out to do, and it’s been an incredibly fun ride getting there."

While Studd feels a sense of completion with Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, the broader quest for understanding and celebrating cheese remains an ongoing journey. His work continues to illuminate the intricate connections between food, culture, and identity, reminding us that every bite of artisan cheese offers a profound taste of place – a testament to the land, the animals, and the indomitable spirit of the people who make it.

Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place is distributed by Banijay and is available to stream online in many countries worldwide, inviting audiences everywhere to join Will Studd on his extraordinary quest.