By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer

For those who regularly tune into the world of live-fire cooking, particularly through this blog and newsletter, the aroma of searing steak, slow-smoked brisket, succulent ribs, and tender pork shoulders likely dominates your culinary imagination. It’s a carnivoran paradise, a testament to the primal allure of grilled and smoked meats. This relentless focus on protein might understandably lead to a pressing question: has Steven Raichlen, the undisputed maestro of barbecue, completely forsaken the humble vegetable?

The answer, emphatically, is no. As the calendar pages turn to August, a month that heralds the zenith of summer produce, my wife and I have been engaged in an exhilarating culinary exploration, transforming the season’s bounty into vibrant, fire-kissed delights. From the creamy comfort of grilled corn pudding and the smoky intrigue of gazpacho, to the deeply caramelized sweetness of ember-roasted peppers and the rich, yielding texture of grilled eggplants, it feels as though no vegetable has been left untouched by the transformative power of the grill this summer.

The Art and Science of Grilling Vegetables: A Categorical Approach

The sheer diversity of the vegetable kingdom presents a unique challenge and opportunity for the grill master. How does one approach the grilling of everything from the fibrous heart of an artichoke to the delicate, water-rich flesh of a zucchini? The answer lies in understanding the fundamental differences in their structure, moisture content, and starch composition. While a comprehensive guide would indeed require a dedicated tome – a task I happily undertook with my book, How to Grill Vegetables – a foundational understanding can be built upon a simple yet effective categorization: vegetables that grow above ground versus those that grow below.

Above-Ground Delights: Quick Searing for Maximum Flavor

Vegetables that flourish above the soil generally possess a softer flesh and a higher moisture content. Think of the lusciousness of tomatoes, the earthy depth of mushrooms, the vibrant sweetness of bell peppers, the crisp tenderness of asparagus, and the satisfying kernels of corn. These delicate ingredients thrive under the intense heat of direct grilling. A swift encounter with high flames, enhanced by a judicious brushing of extra-virgin olive oil, a sprinkle of salt, and a grind of pepper, locks in their natural juices and imparts a delightful char. The goal here is speed and precision, allowing the inherent flavors of the vegetable to shine through, amplified by the smoky kiss of the grill.

Below-Ground Treasures: Slow and Steady for Perfect Tenderness

In contrast, the firm, starchy vegetables that develop their character beneath the earth – potatoes, beets, sunchokes, turnips, and carrots – require a different approach. Their dense structure and complex starches necessitate a more patient cooking process. Indirect grilling over moderate heat for an extended period, typically ranging from 30 to 60 minutes, allows these resilient roots to soften gradually, unlocking their inherent sweetness and achieving a perfect, yielding texture. This method also opens the door to introducing aromatic wood chips or chunks into the fire, infusing the vegetables with layers of complex smoke flavor, transforming them into something truly extraordinary.

The "Caveman" Method: Harnessing the Power of Embers

Certain vegetables possess a remarkable ability to absorb and express smoky nuances, particularly when subjected to the primal embrace of the embers. The "caveman" method, where vegetables are placed directly onto the glowing coals, is a revelation for ingredients like eggplants and bell peppers. Eggplants, when charred directly on the embers, develop a hauntingly smoky depth that forms the soul of a sublime baba ghanoush. Similarly, bell peppers, kissed by the direct heat of the coals, transform into supernaturally sweet and smoky jewels. This elemental cooking technique strips away pretension and reveals the pure, unadulterated essence of the vegetable.

An A-to-Z Grilling Compendium for Peak Produce Season

As we continue to celebrate the vibrant offerings of high summer, here is your indispensable guide to grilling a spectrum of seasonal vegetables, from the familiar to the delightfully unexpected.

A is for Asparagus:

Snap off the woody bottom ends of fresh asparagus stalks. To facilitate even grilling and easy handling, create "rafts" by laying several stalks side-by-side and securing them with toothpicks. Brush generously with sesame oil or olive oil and grill directly over high heat until tender-crisp, with a slight char.

B is for Broccolini:

A delicate cousin to broccoli, broccolini benefits from a simple preparation. Brush with chili oil or olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill directly over medium-high heat until the florets are tender and the stems are slightly charred.

C is for Corn:

The undisputed king of summer grilling. Strip back the husks, leaving them intact, and tie them together under the ears to create a natural handle. Brush the corn kernels with melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Grill directly over high heat, turning occasionally, until the kernels are plump and beautifully charred. For a vibrant Mexican twist, slather the grilled corn with creamy mayonnaise and dust generously with grated cotija cheese.

D is for Delicata Squash:

This elegant squash offers a delightful sweetness when grilled. Cut into 1/2-inch thick rings, discarding the seeds. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Grill directly over medium heat until tender and beautifully browned.

E is for Eggplant:

A true chameleon of the grill. For larger eggplants, cut them crosswise into 1/2-inch thick steaks. Brush with olive oil and grill directly over high heat until tender and deeply browned. Smaller eggplants can be roasted directly on the embers, skin and all, to achieve an intensely smoky flavor that is the secret to an unparalleled baba ghanoush when pureed with garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, and tahini.

F is for Fennel:

Trim the leafy tops (save these for adding to ember-grilling fish for an aromatic boost). Cut the bulbs from top to bottom into 1/4-inch thick slices. Brush with olive oil and grill directly until tender and beautifully browned. A drizzle of balsamic vinegar just before serving adds a welcome tang.

G is for Green Beans:

Trim and string your green beans. Toss them with olive oil, chopped fresh dill, or minced garlic. Grill in a wire mesh basket over high heat, or for an intensified smoky flavor, cook them directly on the embers. Toasted slivered almonds provide a delightful textural contrast.

H is for Hatch Chiles:

These New Mexico jewels are in their prime in August. Cut them in half lengthwise and stuff them with a savory mixture of sautéed onions, breadcrumbs, and grated cheese. Indirectly grill over medium-high heat until the chiles are tender and the filling is bubbling. For a reliable source of these flavorful peppers, explore options from purveyors like Melissa’s.

I is for Iceberg Lettuce:

Don’t underestimate the humble iceberg! Cut the head into quarters, brush the cut faces with oil, and sear them over a hot fire until lightly charred. Allow to cool slightly, then dress generously with your favorite ranch dressing for a surprisingly satisfying grilled salad.

J is for Jerusalem Artichokes (Sunchokes):

Scrub these earthy tubers well and dry them thoroughly. Place them in a foil pan with butter, salt, pepper, and unpeeled garlic cloves. Indirectly grill at medium-high heat for approximately 45 minutes, or until they are crisp on the outside and tender within. For an added layer of complexity, introduce wood chips to the fire to generate smoke.

K is for Kale (especially Lacinato Kale):

Brush each leaf of kale on both sides with sesame oil and soy sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and grill directly over medium-high heat until the leaves are beautifully browned and crisp.

L is for Leeks:

Split the leeks lengthwise and wash them meticulously to remove any hidden grit. Brush with olive oil and grill directly over medium heat until tender. A light vinaigrette makes a perfect finishing touch.

M is for Mushrooms:

A grilling perennial. Wipe large mushrooms clean with a damp cloth. Brush with garlic-parsley butter and grill directly over a medium-hot fire, basting with more butter as they cook.

N is for Napa Cabbage:

Cut crosswise into 1-inch thick steaks and secure them with bamboo skewers to prevent separation. Brush with sesame oil, soy sauce, and minced garlic. Grill directly over high heat until tender and slightly caramelized.

O is for Okra:

Often overlooked, okra transforms into a delightful grilling treat. Skewer into rafts, similar to asparagus. Brush with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and grill directly until sizzling and browned. A generous dusting of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano elevates this humble vegetable.

P is for Plantains:

Allow plantains to ripen until their skins turn black, indicating peak sweetness. Peel them and cut diagonally into 3/4-inch thick slices. Brush with melted butter and caramelize on a hot griddle or grill directly until beautifully browned.

Q is for Quaresima Peppers (Sweet Italian Peppers):

Place these sweet peppers in a grill basket and blister them over a hot fire or directly on the coals. Shishito peppers can be grilled in the same manner, offering a delightful gamble of mildness and occasional heat.

R is for Radicchio:

Cut radicchio into wedges and secure them with toothpicks. Brush with olive oil and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Grill directly over a hot fire until the leaves are slightly wilted and caramelized.

S is for Sweet Potatoes:

For perfectly tender sweet potatoes with crisp skins, indirect grill them over medium-high heat until a fork pierces them easily. Serve them split open with a dollop of butter and a drizzle of maple syrup.

T is for Tomatoes:

Halve ripe tomatoes widthwise. Smoke them at a low temperature in your smoker or grill. While you’re at it, consider smoking cucumbers, sweet bell peppers, sweet onions, and a few garlic cloves. Blend these smoky components with olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to create a gazpacho that is truly unparalleled.

U is for Ube (Purple Yam):

Scrub the exterior of the ube and grill it indirectly until tender, much like a sweet potato. Its vibrant color and subtle sweetness make it a unique grilling option.

V is for Vidalia Onions:

Peel these sweet onions and carefully cut out the stem end in a cone-shaped plug. Stuff this cavity with crumbled bacon and a generous spoonful of barbecue sauce. Smoke-roast them indirectly over medium heat for 40 to 60 minutes, or until they are soft and tender.

W is for Winter Squash:

Halve acorn squash and scoop out the seeds. Place them cut-side down on a preheated salt slab and indirect grill until tender. The salt slab imparts a subtle salinity and prevents sticking.

X is for Xoconostle:

This is where we delve into the truly adventurous! Xoconostle, the Nahuatl term for a sour prickly pear, is a staple in Mexican cuisine. Mexicans char it over a hot fire and then grind it to create vibrant, tangy salsas.

Y is for Yellow Squash:

Cut yellow squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Stuff the cavities with your choice of chorizo or Italian sausage. Indirectly grill over medium-high heat until the squash is tender and the filling is cooked through.

Z is for Zucchini:

Slice zucchini lengthwise into 1/4-inch thick planks. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dried mint. Grill directly over high heat until tender and lightly charred. A drizzle of Greek yogurt or tzatziki sauce provides a refreshing finish.

Embracing the Full Spectrum of Flavor

The August grilling season is a fleeting, glorious time. It’s an opportunity to move beyond the predictable and embrace the vast, untapped potential of vegetables on the grill. By understanding their unique characteristics and employing the right techniques, we can transform these often-underappreciated ingredients into star players on our barbecue stage. So, fire up your grills, embrace the vibrant colors and diverse textures of summer’s harvest, and discover the profound joy of vegetables kissed by flame. Your taste buds will thank you.