# Will Studd Embarks on a Global Quest: Why Cheese Deserves a Deeper Look

## The Host of *Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place* Unpacks a Quarter-Century Journey into the Soul of Artisan Cheesemaking

For over 25 years, Australian cheese legend Will Studd has journeyed far beyond the mere sensory pleasure of cheese. His decades-long quest has been driven by profound questions: What are the true origins of a particular cheese? What time-honored traditions have sculpted its identity? And critically, what happens when these deeply rooted practices clash with the relentless forces of modern regulation, industrialization, market consolidation, and shifting consumer demands? His latest endeavor, the documentary series *Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place*, serves as a culmination of this lifelong inquiry, a “legacy project” he describes, designed to explore what is irrevocably lost when a cheese becomes severed from its geographical birthplace and the dedicated hands that crafted it.

The series is a sprawling cinematic odyssey, traversing the ancient cheesemaking landscapes of Europe and delving into the dynamic, ever-evolving American artisan cheese scene. Studd meticulously investigates a spectrum of critical topics, from the nuanced debate surrounding raw milk and the elusive concept of *terroir* to the complex challenges of succession planning, managing production scale, and the delicate balance of preserving a cheese’s inherent character as global demand intensifies.

Ahead of the series’ global distribution by Banijay, we sat down with Studd to delve into his definition of “taste of place” after a lifetime spent in its pursuit. He shared intimate reflections on the cheesemakers and conversations that left an indelible mark, and articulated his unwavering belief in the enduring future of artisan cheese—and the tenacious individuals who champion its existence.

## Defining “Taste of Place”: Raw Milk, Tradition, and Terroir

**Culture Media (CM):** You describe the series as a search for “taste of place.” After traveling across so many cheesemaking regions, what does that phrase mean to you today, and has your definition changed?

**Will Studd (WS):** My understanding of “taste of place” has certainly deepened over the years, but its core remains steadfast. I hold a strong conviction that only cheese crafted from raw, unpasteurized milk can truly embody a pure and authentic reflection of its place of origin. Raw milk cheese, to me, represents the zenith of cheesemaking artistry, offering unparalleled depth of flavor, astonishing diversity, and an inherent respect for the integrity of its ingredients and process. It’s a direct conduit to the microbial ecosystem of the farm, the specific diet of the animals, and the subtle environmental nuances of a region.

However, I am also quick to acknowledge the remarkable achievements within the artisan cheese world that utilize pasteurized milk. There are countless delicious and intriguing cheeses made this way that still maintain credible and strong connections to their place of origin. These cheeses often leverage specific regional cultures, traditional methods, and locally sourced, albeit treated, milk to achieve distinctive characteristics. In *Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place*, I’ve consciously included stories showcasing both raw milk and pasteurized cheeses. My intention is to present the spectrum of perspectives and allow viewers to form their own informed conclusions about what “taste of place” truly signifies to them. It’s not about dictating a single definition, but about fostering a deeper appreciation for the factors that contribute to a cheese’s unique identity.

### Unveiling Surprises: Lessons from the Field

**CM:** Was there a particular moment during filming that surprised you or challenged a long-held assumption about cheese?

**WS:** Filming cheese is an inherently dynamic process, and it consistently offers intriguing surprises that challenge even my most deeply held assumptions. These moments are often small, granular details that reveal the immense complexity and local wisdom embedded in cheesemaking. For instance, I was genuinely astonished to learn that a cow’s breath could serve as an indicator of milk quality. This revelation came during filming with the incredibly insightful Andy Hatch in Wisconsin, highlighting the intimate connection between animal health, environment, and the final product.

My perception of the optimal time for Roquefort production was also dramatically altered by Delphine Carles, a master cheesemaker. For years, like many, I believed May was the prime month. Delphine, however, passionately argued for January, illustrating how seasonal variations in pasture and milk composition profoundly impact the cheese’s character. In Cyprus, I discovered that the specific type of milk and the size of Halloumi were once strictly regional, a testament to how local practices defined varieties long before modern standardization. And in Greece, I stumbled upon Galotyri, a delectable ancient shepherd’s cheese that might just be the world’s oldest surviving spreadable cheese, offering a glimpse into millennia of culinary heritage. These experiences underscore that even after decades in the field, there’s always more to learn, more traditions to uncover, and more nuances to appreciate within the vast world of cheese.

## The Power of Visual Storytelling

**CM:** Documentaries often ask viewers to slow down and pay attention. What do you hope people notice about cheese after watching the series that they may have overlooked before?

**WS:** My deepest hope is that viewers will emerge from this series with a profound, multi-layered appreciation for cheese, recognizing it as far more than just a food item. Each episode is meticulously crafted around a central theme, and we’ve striven to imbue them with diverse, engaging stories and often unexpected information. Take, for example, the segment on the renaissance of Camembert Fernier in Normandy. Beyond the cheesemaking process itself, we delved into the poignant history of Marie Harel, the legendary figure credited with its invention, and the remarkable story of how her statue, damaged during World War II, was rebuilt with donations from American dairy farmers. These interwoven narratives transform cheese from a simple commodity into a living artifact, rich with history, culture, and human resilience.

I believe curious viewers, and particularly devoted cheese lovers, will find themselves captivated by these deeper layers of information, long after the credits roll. They’ll begin to see the landscape, the animals, the people, and the historical context as integral components of the cheese’s identity. It’s about encouraging a shift from passive consumption to active engagement, where every bite tells a story and every wheel represents a universe of effort, tradition, and passion. I want them to understand the sacrifices and dedication involved in creating exceptional artisan cheese, and to recognize the profound cultural significance it holds in various regions around the globe.

### Capturing the Unseen: Taste and Aroma on Screen

**CM:** Cheese is inherently sensory, yet film can’t convey aroma or flavor. How do you tell the story of taste without the audience tasting alongside you?

**WS:** This is undoubtedly one of the greatest challenges and fascinations of telling a cheese story through film. While we can’t directly transmit aroma or flavor, we can evoke a powerful emotional and intellectual response that primes the viewer for a tasting experience. The joy of sharing an truly exceptional cheese lies in its ability to speak for itself. When you get it right, there’s that magical moment: a smile of pure pleasure, eyes lighting up with shared appreciation. It’s an experience of connection, discovery, and profound satisfaction.

On film, our approach is to immerse the viewer in a beautiful visual journey, meticulously telling the story behind a cheese’s origin through stunning cinematography. We aim to get them emotionally invested in the idea of the cheese – its landscape, its makers, its history. We show the texture, the aging process, the environment. We use evocative language to describe what one might anticipate in terms of flavor and aroma, guiding their imagination. By creating this rich tapestry of visual and narrative information, we hope to build anticipation and curiosity, making the viewer yearn to seek out and experience that cheese for themselves. The goal is to make the audience understand the *why* and *how* behind the taste, even if they can’t experience the *what* in that precise moment. It’s about building a narrative that makes the eventual tasting a more informed and profound experience.

### The Art of Collaboration: Shaping the Narrative

**CM:** Did making this documentary change the way you think about your role—not just as an affineur or educator, but as a storyteller?

**WS:** Absolutely. This documentary series marked a significant evolution in my understanding of storytelling, largely thanks to my collaboration with Stuart Goodman, an incredibly talented and award-winning documentarian. Stuart brought a crucial layer of depth to the project. He dedicated considerable time to researching and cross-checking my initial concepts, ensuring the narrative was robust and multifaceted. Our many long discussions about what content to include and, just as importantly, what to exclude, were invaluable. Through this process, I learned an immense amount about the craft of constructing a compelling narrative, about pacing, visual language, and the emotional arc of a story.

Stuart’s passion for production details and his perfectionism were infectious. He pushed me to think beyond just the facts and to consider the emotional resonance of each scene. He even persuaded me to commission an original Mozart piano concerto for the soundtrack, an artistic choice that speaks volumes about the level of detail and artistic ambition he brought to the project. This experience truly refined my approach, transforming me from someone who simply conveyed information about cheese into someone who understands the nuanced art of weaving a captivating tale that transcends mere education.

## The American Artisan Cheese Renaissance

**CM:** The US episode celebrates American cheesemakers, but what do you think distinguishes the American artisan cheese movement today from where it was 20 or 30 years ago?

**WS:** Having filmed hours of footage with US cheesemakers over the past 25 years, the transformation of the American artisan cheese movement is nothing short of astounding. Looking back to those early days, when I first started documenting this burgeoning scene, it’s clear that artisan cheese is no longer solely the ambitious dream of a few alternative counterculture pioneers. What was once a niche pursuit has blossomed into a vibrant, sophisticated industry, driven by an ever-growing consumer demand for cheeses with distinctive flavors, textures, and aromas.

This burgeoning demand has fueled a veritable revolution. Today, there is a distinct and mature US cheese culture, characterized by innovation, technical skill, and a deep respect for tradition, often reinterpreted through an American lens. It’s no longer a surprise to see American artisan cheeses not just competing, but winning notable international awards, standing proudly alongside European stalwarts. This evolution speaks to a collective commitment to quality, a willingness to experiment, and the establishment of robust infrastructure—from affineurs to distributors—that supports this burgeoning industry. The movement has professionalized, gaining widespread recognition and a dedicated following that was unimaginable a few decades ago.

### Evolution and Innovation: From Dreamers to World-Class Producers

**CM:** Did filming in the US change your perspective on American cheese in any way? If so, how?

**WS:** My perspective on American cheese has certainly evolved from one of nascent potential to established excellence. For more than a century, America’s influence on industrial cheesemaking has been profound, shaping global production methods. However, the resurgence of interest in artisan cheese, particularly over the last few decades, has been incredibly encouraging, signaling a confidence in a sustainable, quality-driven future.

During filming, I was particularly inspired by the dedication and ingenuity I witnessed. The state-of-the-art dairy facilities at Jasper Hill Farm, for example, are a testament to this. Mateo Kehler’s articulate explanation of how his team meticulously ensures distinctive flavors by harmoniously blending time-honored traditional techniques with modern innovation was truly captivating. It demonstrated a sophisticated approach to scaling production without compromising the intrinsic quality or integrity of the cheese. On a somewhat smaller, yet equally impactful scale, Andy Hatch at Uplands Cheese in Wisconsin echoed this sentiment, showing how he has substantially increased his production while rigorously upholding his commitment to quality and integrity.

We also had the privilege of interviewing influential figures like Dr. Catherine Donnelly, whose academic insights have shaped the industry, Ed Behr, a passionate advocate for traditional foods, and Cathy Strange of Whole Foods, a crucial gatekeeper for artisan products. These conversations shed light on the persistent struggles American artisan cheesemakers have faced, challenging the entrenched status quo with their compelling drive for change and their unwavering belief in the value of their craft. It cemented my view that American artisan cheese is not just a trend, but a deeply rooted and innovative force in the global cheese landscape.

### Common Threads and Enduring Challenges

**CM:** Is there a common thread you noticed among the American producers you featured, regardless of the size of their operation or the style of cheese they make?

**WS:** Despite the vast differences in scale, style, and geographical location, a striking common thread emerged among the American producers we featured: the inherent challenge of success itself. Their primary dilemma was consistently how to grow their operations, meet escalating consumer demand, and expand their market reach without inevitably losing the fundamental character, the unique nuances, and the diverse flavors that defined their original cheese. This balancing act between growth and authenticity is a pervasive concern.

Beyond this, they universally grappled with the broader economic realities of artisan production: the increasing costs of finance and operation, the ever-present burden of regulatory compliance, the complexities of evolving counter service models, and the looming specter of creeping corporate consolidation, which often manifests as attractive yet potentially compromising acquisition offers. Moreover, the critical issue of succession planning was a frequently raised topic. This dilemma—how to ensure the legacy of a family-owned or independently run dairy continues into the next generation—is far from unique to American artisan cheesemakers. In fact, the series deliberately explores very similar challenges faced by small, family-owned dairies in traditional cheesemaking regions of France, underscoring the universal nature of these struggles in the face of modernization and market pressures.

## Preserving Legacies and Embracing Change

**CM:** Many of the producers in the film are stewards of traditions that stretch back generations. Do today’s cheesemakers have a responsibility to preserve those traditions while still innovating?

**WS:** There is an undeniable and profound responsibility to respect tradition and to actively protect time-honored cheesemaking techniques from the threat of extinction. These traditions are the bedrock of cheese culture, embodying centuries of accumulated knowledge, skill, and regional identity. However, it’s crucial to understand that change is not inherently harmful. Cheese, by its very nature, has always been a product of evolution, constantly adapting in response to changing circumstances, environments, and human ingenuity.

While traditional cheesemaking has faced some of its greatest existential threats over the past 50 years, largely due to the rise of industrial production, it is ironically the artisan cheese revival that has emerged as a powerful counter-force. This revival is driven by discerning consumers who are increasingly fed up with the predictable blandness and uniformity of mass-produced industrial cheese. Artisan cheesemakers today are not simply replicating the past; they are intelligently adapting traditional techniques, often with a fresh perspective, to innovate and create exciting new cheeses that possess a distinct point of difference. They are demonstrating that preservation doesn’t mean stagnation; it means understanding the principles of the past and applying them creatively to the present, ensuring that cheese continues to evolve while retaining its soul and unique character. This dynamic interplay between tradition and innovation is what will truly safeguard the future of artisan cheese.

### Memorable Encounters and Shifting Landscapes

**CM:** Were there any conversations with cheesemakers that stayed with you long after filming wrapped?

**WS:** Indeed, there were many conversations that resonated deeply, but perhaps the most poignant and memorable was with David Gremmels, the visionary creator of the multiple award-winning Rogue River Blue. I have a long history with David; I was actually with him almost 20 years ago when he first launched this iconic cheese with Neal’s Yard Dairy in London, a moment facilitated by Cathy Strange. Our final filming with David took place in the car park outside the creamery on the very day the large French group, Savencia, finalized their ownership of the Rogue business. It was a difficult and emotionally charged scene, witnessing David being locked out of the facility he had poured his life into, literally letting go of his dream.

It was profoundly moving to observe such a passionate individual navigate the bittersweet reality of succession and corporate acquisition. The experience highlighted the delicate balance between the desire to preserve a legacy and the economic pressures that often necessitate such transitions. Only time will truly reveal how this takeover will shape David’s profound legacy and the future identity of Rogue River Blue. It served as a powerful reminder of the human stories, the personal sacrifices, and the complex business realities that underpin every wheel of artisan cheese.

### Beyond Geography: People, Culture, and the Future of Terroir

**CM:** We often talk about terroir, but do you think “taste of place” is as much about people and culture as it is geography?

**WS:** The concept of *terroir* is undeniably foundational, typically beginning with the premise of high-quality raw milk derived from healthy animals grazing in a strictly defined geographical region. This initial definition encompasses the unique environmental factors – the climate, geology, topography, and specific flora that the animals consume. However, to truly understand “taste of place,” one must recognize that *terroir* is not a static, purely geographical phenomenon. It is, in fact, an intricate and complex web of interacting factors, where human intervention, cultural practices, and historical traditions play an equally vital, if not more defining, role.

The series makes a fascinating comparison between Salers Tradition from France and Kirkham’s Lancashire from England, which vividly underlines how crucial geography, the specific people, and their unique cultural heritage are to the ultimate expression of *terroir*. Both cheeses are deeply rooted in their landscapes, but their distinct characters are inseparable from the generations of farmers and cheesemakers who have honed specific techniques, adapted to local conditions, and passed down their knowledge.

Furthermore, I raise crucial questions about the future implications of evolving dairy practices, such as the pursuit of “clean” raw milk that might be increasingly devoid of the natural microbial diversity essential for complex raw milk cheeses. We also explore the growing influence of modern industrial starter cultures, which, while offering consistency, can potentially homogenize flavors and distance cheese from its unique microbial “signature” of place. Ultimately, “taste of place” is a holistic concept, a symphony where nature provides the notes, but people and culture compose the enduring melody.

## A Vision for the Future: Educating Consumers, Inspiring Makers

**CM:** If someone watches the documentary without knowing much about cheese, what do you hope they take away beyond a desire to eat more of it?

**WS:** My ultimate hope is that viewers, even those completely new to the world of artisan cheese, will develop a more conscious and inquisitive relationship with the food they consume. We are witnessing a growing consumer awareness, a desire to understand *what* we eat, *how* it’s made, and *where* it truly originates. This documentary aims to tap into that burgeoning curiosity. There’s little point in dedicated cheesemakers producing exceptional artisan cheese if consumers lack the understanding of what makes it special, why it differs so profoundly from mass-produced alternatives, and the value it brings.

I sincerely hope that *Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place* will empower viewers to understand the diverse array of artisan cheeses available to them and, more importantly, to prompt them to ask deeper questions about their own food choices. I want them to appreciate the intrinsic value of craftsmanship, the importance of biodiversity, and the cultural richness embedded in every wheel. It’s about fostering a sense of connection to the food system, to the land, and to the people who dedicate their lives to creating something truly extraordinary.

### Optimism in the Face of Industrialization

**CM:** What gives you the most optimism about the future of artisan cheese?

**WS:** My optimism for the future of artisan cheese is rooted in a fundamental principle: the unwavering power of consumer choice. As long as cheesemakers continue to dedicate themselves to producing cheeses that are genuinely tastier, more interesting, and possess a distinct point of difference—a true “taste of place”—they will thrive. Of course, the journey will always be fraught with challenges, from economic pressures to