By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer

August 18, 2026

For many, the mere suggestion of grilling fish conjures images of culinary disaster: sticky grates, crumbling fillets, and the dreaded dry, overcooked texture. Yet, according to renowned barbecue expert and James Beard Award-winner Steven Raichlen, fish is not only his favorite summer grill food, but also a dish that, when prepared correctly, offers unparalleled smoky succulence. From his summer home on Martha’s Vineyard, Raichlen has dedicated himself to demystifying the art of grilling seafood, asserting that the key lies not in fear, but in understanding the nuances of different fish and employing the appropriate grilling techniques.

"People often ask me what my favorite food is to grill in the summer," Raichlen shared. "You might be surprised to hear it’s not steak or ribs or pork loin. No, my number one favorite grill food this time of year is fish—especially swordfish. And nowhere does it taste better—or grill better—than at my summer home on Martha’s Vineyard."

This sentiment, however, is not universally shared. The inherent fragility of fish presents a unique challenge for grill masters. The high heat of the grill, the potential for sticking, and the risk of the delicate flesh falling apart are legitimate concerns that can deter even the most seasoned outdoor cooks. Raichlen acknowledges these anxieties, stating, "Fish on the grill. Four words that strike terror into the hearts of even experienced grillers. For as much as grilling endows fish with incredible smoky succulence, there’s a lot that can go wrong. Will it stick to the grate? Will it fall apart when you turn it? Will the high heat of the fire dry it out?"

But Raichlen is quick to reassure that these challenges are not insurmountable. "Well, grilling fish is easy, but it isn’t always simple," he explains. "The secret is choosing the right grilling method for the particular fish you’re cooking." This foundational principle guides his comprehensive approach, offering a spectrum of techniques designed to suit the diverse world of seafood.

The Art of the Sear: Direct Grilling for Firm Favorites

For firm, meaty fish steaks that possess a robust structure, direct grilling is the method of choice. Raichlen champions this technique for species like swordfish, tuna, and salmon, which can withstand the intensity of direct heat and the rigors of flipping without disintegrating.

"Direct grilling—cooking the fish directly over the fire—is ideal for firm, meaty fish steaks, such as swordfish, tuna, and salmon," Raichlen advises. "These fish have enough structure to stand up to high heat and flipping without falling apart."

The success of direct grilling hinges on meticulous preparation. A hot, impeccably clean, and well-oiled grill grate is paramount to prevent sticking. Patting the fish dry before grilling is essential, as excess moisture can hinder the development of a desirable sear. A light brushing of oil on the fish itself further aids in this process and adds a touch of richness.

"Start with a hot, clean, well-oiled grill grate," Raichlen emphasizes. "Pat the fish dry and brush it lightly with oil before it goes on the grill. Once the fish hits the grate, leave it alone long enough to develop a good sear. When properly browned, it will release more readily from the grate." The mantra of minimal intervention is key: "Turn it with a thin-bladed spatula and, whenever possible, flip it only once."

Raichlen’s personal affinity for swordfish stems directly from its suitability for this direct grilling method. "Swordfish is particularly well suited to this technique—one reason it remains one of my favorite fish to grill."

The Gentle Embrace: Indirect Grilling for Whole Fish and Larger Cuts

When dealing with whole fish or larger cuts that require more time to cook through, indirect grilling offers a more controlled and even cooking environment. This method, which positions the fish away from the direct flames, transforms the grill into a sophisticated outdoor oven.

"Indirect grilling is ideal for whole fish, like snapper or salmon," Raichlen explains. "Instead of positioning the fish directly over the fire, you cook it next to the heat with the grill covered. Think of your grill as a smoky outdoor oven."

This approach ensures that the fish cooks gently and uniformly from edge to center, preventing the exterior from becoming overcooked before the interior is ready. "This gentler method cooks the fish evenly from edge to center and is especially useful for larger fish that need more time over the fire," he notes.

Seasoning is crucial, and Raichlen suggests oiling the fish, seasoning it both inside and out, and then placing it in the cooler zone of the grill. For those seeking an intensified smoky flavor, Raichlen offers an advanced tip: "For an extra blast of wood smoke, toss a few wood chunks or chips onto the fire." This technique allows the wood smoke to permeate the fish slowly and evenly, infusing it with a depth of flavor that is hard to achieve through other methods.

Embracing the Smoke: Infusing Flavor into Oily Fish

Certain types of fish, particularly those with a higher natural fat content, are exceptionally receptive to the transformative power of wood smoke. Raichlen highlights oily fish like salmon, bluefish, and whitefish as prime candidates for smoking, as their inherent richness helps them remain moist during the smoking process while readily absorbing smoky aromas.

"Few foods take to wood smoke as enthusiastically as oily fish," Raichlen observes. "Salmon, bluefish, and whitefish have enough natural fat to stay moist as they cook, while soaking up all that wonderful smoky flavor."

For optimal results, Raichlen recommends a preliminary step: brining or curing the fish. This not only adds flavor but also helps to firm the flesh, making it more resilient during the smoking process. Crucially, he advises allowing the surface of the fish to dry thoroughly before it enters the smoker. This surface dryness is essential for smoke adhesion and the development of a desirable pellicle, which contributes to the final texture and flavor.

The choice of wood is also a critical element in the smoking process. "Alder is the classic wood for salmon, but apple, cherry, and other mild hardwoods work beautifully, too," Raichlen suggests. These milder hardwoods impart a subtle sweetness and fruitiness that complements the natural flavors of the fish without overpowering them.

The versatility of smoked fish is another point Raichlen emphasizes. "Serve the fish hot from the smoker, or chill it and enjoy it later." This allows for a range of culinary applications, from a show-stopping main course to a delectable appetizer or component in salads and other dishes.

Raichlen provides a specific recipe for Maple-Cured and Smoked Salmon, a testament to the harmonious blend of sweet and smoky flavors. This preparation involves a New England-inspired cure of maple sugar, salt, black pepper, and lemon zest, followed by a drizzle of maple syrup before smoking. The result is a rich, flavorful salmon with layers of complexity.

Beyond the Grate: Alternative Surfaces for Delicate Delights

Recognizing that not all fish are suited to direct contact with grill grates, Raichlen champions alternative grilling surfaces that offer enhanced control and protection for more delicate seafood.

The Griddle and Plancha: A Solid Foundation for Fragile Fillets

For fish with a delicate texture, such as sole, flounder, or black bass, a griddle or plancha emerges as an indispensable tool. These solid cooking surfaces provide an even distribution of heat and eliminate the risk of the fish sticking to or falling through the grill grates.

"For delicate fish fillets—think sole, flounder, or black bass—a griddle or plancha can be your best friend," Raichlen states. "You get the intense heat and sizzling crust of the grill without the open spaces between the bars for the fish to stick to—or fall through."

The technique is straightforward: preheat the griddle until it’s hot, then lightly oil it. Lay the fish onto the hot surface and allow it to sear undisturbed until a crust forms. This initial searing is crucial for releasing the fish cleanly. "Lay on the fish and let it sear undisturbed before turning it with a thin-bladed spatula," he advises. The broad, flat surface of the griddle or plancha makes this method remarkably forgiving, even for novice cooks.

Raichlen offers a recipe for Grill-Blackened Tuna with Cajun Remoulade, a dish that exemplifies the power of a hot griddle or plancha. Thick ahi tuna steaks are coated in a bold blend of Cajun spices and seared to achieve an "electrifying blackened crust" while maintaining a beautifully rare center. The recipe highlights the plancha as an ideal tool for this high-heat, rapid-searing technique.

The Grill Basket: Protective Armor for Tricky Catches

When grilling presents a particularly high risk of sticking or breakage, a grill basket offers a simple yet effective solution. This inexpensive accessory provides a contained environment for fish, preventing direct contact with the grate and simplifying the flipping process.

"A grill basket is cheap insurance for fish that has a tendency to stick, tear, or fall through the grate," Raichlen explains. "It’s particularly useful for whole trout and small snapper, as well as delicate fillets like halibut and turbot."

The key to using a grill basket successfully is to oil it thoroughly before adding the fish. Once the fish is securely placed and the basket is clamped shut, the entire basket is turned, rather than attempting to manipulate the delicate fish directly. "Once it’s clamped securely inside, you turn the basket—not the fish," Raichlen notes. This minimizes the risk of tearing and ensures a more even cook. "You still get plenty of heat, smoke, and char, but with considerably less drama."

The Cedar Plank: A Fragrant Embrace for Moisture and Flavor

Planking, a technique that involves grilling fish on a pre-soaked cedar plank, is lauded by Raichlen as one of the most foolproof methods for achieving perfectly grilled fish. The plank acts as a natural barrier, preventing sticking and preserving moisture, while simultaneously infusing the fish with a subtle, smoky aroma.

"Planking is one of the most foolproof ways to grill fish," Raichlen declares. "A cedar plank is ideal for fillets like salmon and striped bass, and because the fish never touches the grill grate, sticking and falling apart cease to be problems."

The process involves setting up the grill for indirect heat. For an added layer of complexity, Raichlen suggests charring one side of the plank over the direct flame before placing the seasoned fish on the charred side. This charring intensifies the woody aroma. "As the cedar plank heats, it perfumes the fish with wood smoke while helping keep it moist." The result is a moist, flaky, and subtly smoky fillet with minimal risk of culinary mishaps.

The Salt Slab: A Mineral-Rich Sizzle

The use of a salt slab for grilling offers a unique and flavorful approach, transforming the grill into a mineral-rich plancha. This method is particularly effective for delicate whole fish, as it provides a solid, seasoned cooking surface.

"A salt slab turns your grill into a sizzling, mineral-rich plancha," Raichlen explains. "It’s especially well-suited to delicate whole fish, such as snapper, black bass, and porgie, because the fish cooks on a solid surface instead of directly on the grate."

The primary consideration when using a salt slab is gradual heating to prevent cracking. Once heated, the fish is placed directly onto the slab. The hot salt sears the exterior of the fish, creating a beautiful crust while simultaneously imparting a subtle, mineral seasoning. "The hot salt gives the exterior a beautiful sear while gently seasoning the fish as it cooks," Raichlen states. And, as with other solid surfaces, the absence of grill bars eliminates the worry of delicate flesh falling through.

Grilling in Leaves: An Ancient, Aromatic Technique

Raichlen also champions the ancient practice of grilling fish wrapped in leaves, a technique deeply rooted in culinary traditions across Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean. This method is especially beneficial for delicate fish, as the leaves act as a natural steaming pouch, trapping moisture and imparting herbaceous aromas as they char.

"Wrapping fish in leaves is an age-old grilling technique found throughout Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean," Raichlen notes. "It’s particularly useful for delicate fish: the leaves keep the flesh off the grate, trap moisture, and perfume the fish with an herbaceous smoke as they char over the fire."

Banana leaves are a popular choice for this technique. Raichlen suggests softening fresh leaves briefly over the grill before wrapping the seasoned fish within. Securing the package with toothpicks ensures that the leaves can withstand the heat of the fire, effectively steaming and smoking the fish within. "The leaves take the punishment of the fire while the fish steams and smokes inside. No sticking. No falling apart. And when you open the package at the table, you get a blast of fragrant steam."

Grilling on a Stick: The Primal Approach

For the adventurous or those seeking a truly elemental grilling experience, Raichlen points to the simple yet effective method of grilling fish on a sharpened stick. This primitive technique is ideal for camping or situations where traditional grilling equipment is unavailable.

"Sometimes the simplest grilling equipment is a sharpened stick and a good wood fire," Raichlen observes. "This primitive method is perfect for camping, where fish can be positioned beside the embers and cooked by radiant heat rather than directly over the flames."

The fish is threaded securely onto a sturdy stick or stake and angled towards the fire. By adjusting the distance from the embers, precise control over the heat can be achieved. "Moving the fish closer to or farther from the embers gives you surprisingly precise control over the heat—and there’s no grill grate for the fish to stick to." Raichlen even offers a recipe for "Salmon on a Stick," a testament to the effectiveness of this straightforward method.

The Crucial Endpoint: Knowing When Your Fish is Perfectly Cooked

Regardless of the grilling method employed, the ultimate success of grilled fish hinges on achieving the perfect internal temperature. Raichlen stresses the importance of using an instant-read thermometer to avoid the pitfalls of under- or overcooking.

"There’s a fine line between perfectly cooked fish and fish that’s dry enough to make you reach for the tartar sauce," Raichlen warns. "Don’t guess. Use an instant-read thermometer."

He provides clear guidelines for taking temperature readings: for whole fish, insert the probe into the thickest part of the flesh just above the bone; for fish steaks, insert the probe through the side to the center.

The target temperatures vary depending on the type of fish, with specific recommendations for general fish cookery and a distinct approach for tuna. "Most fish: Cook to an internal temperature of 140° to 145°F."

Tuna, however, is an exception, requiring a different approach to preserve its signature rosy interior. Raichlen specifies lower temperatures for blue tuna (100° to 110°F), rare tuna (120° to 125°F), and medium-rare tuna (130° to 135°F). "Tuna plays by different rules," he states. "However you cook it, the center should stay gloriously rosy."

The Ultimate Reward: Fish, Fire, and Summer Bliss

Steven Raichlen’s comprehensive guide dismantles the intimidation factor often associated with grilling fish. By understanding the diverse characteristics of different seafood and mastering the array of techniques available, even novice grillers can achieve spectacular results.

"Grilling fish doesn’t have to strike fear into the heart of even the most seasoned griller," Raichlen concludes. "Once you learn how to match the fish to the fire, the rest gets a whole lot easier."

The reward for this newfound knowledge is profound: fish that is moist, smoky, succulent, and beautifully browned—a culinary triumph that embodies the very essence of summer dining and reaffirms the undeniable magic of cooking seafood over a live fire.