Vermont’s Golden Age of Cheese Shines at Shelburne Farms Festival
By Josie Krogh
Digital Strategy Lead, Culture Cheese Magazine
September 28, 2026
Web Exclusive
Main Facts: A Culinary Odyssey on Lake Champlain
The 13th annual Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, held amidst the breathtaking grandeur of Shelburne Farms on the picturesque shores of Lake Champlain, once again solidified Vermont’s status as a beacon of artisanal cheesemaking. This year’s event, the culmination of Vermont Cheese Week, transformed the historic Breeding Barn into a vibrant marketplace and a celebration of the state’s most innovative and cherished dairy products. Attendees, including industry professionals and passionate consumers, gathered to sample an unparalleled array of cheeses, discover groundbreaking new flavors, and immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Vermont’s agricultural heritage.
The festival, a testament to the collaborative spirit and pioneering ethos of Vermont’s cheesemakers, showcased not only the diversity and quality of the state’s dairy landscape but also its evolving culinary scene. From traditional aged cheddars to experimental botanical ice creams and gourmet macarons infused with local blue cheese, the event offered a sensory journey that highlighted the ingenuity stemming from this verdant corner of New England. Shelburne Farms, a 1,400-acre estate that seamlessly blends a working farm with a historic inn and a commitment to education, proved to be an exceptionally fitting backdrop for this esteemed gathering, embodying the very spirit of sustainability and connection to the land that defines Vermont’s artisanal food movement.
Chronology: From Gilded Age Grandeur to Modern Agricultural Innovation
The Enduring Legacy of Shelburne Farms
Arriving at Shelburne Farms is an experience unlike any other. The sprawling estate, perched majestically on the shores of Lake Champlain, transcends the typical notion of a farm. It feels, in essence, like an entire world meticulously crafted and lovingly preserved. Its colossal barns, built with an ambition that harkens back to a bygone era, stand as monumental reminders of its rich history. The most prominent of these, the Breeding Barn, where the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival unfolded, is a marvel of late 19th-century architecture and agricultural vision.
The story of Shelburne Farms begins in 1886, when William Seward Webb and his wife, Lila Vanderbilt Webb, embarked on an ambitious project to assemble 33 individual farms into one grand agricultural estate. Between 1889 and 1891, the iconic Breeding Barn was constructed, designed to house Webb’s extensive horse-breeding operation. This enterprise, a reflection of the Gilded Age’s pursuit of excellence and scale, ultimately proved to be short-lived as the advent of the automobile rapidly reshaped transportation and agricultural needs. Yet, the magnificent structures, including the Breeding Barn, endured, silently witnessing the passage of time and the shifting currents of human endeavor.
Decades later, in 1972, Webb’s descendants initiated a profound transformation. Recognizing the inherent value of the land and its potential for fostering growth and understanding, they established a nonprofit organization. This visionary entity was founded on the conviction that "learning from the land" could serve as a powerful catalyst for building a more sustainable and just world. The organization eventually assumed ownership of the property, steering Shelburne Farms towards its contemporary mission. Today, it operates as a dynamic hub for education, featuring a thriving working dairy and cheesemaking operation, meticulously maintained gardens, extensive forests, and a comprehensive suite of educational programs that engage visitors of all ages in environmental stewardship and agricultural literacy. The historic Inn at Shelburne Farms, once the private residence, now welcomes guests, offering an immersive experience into the estate’s charm and natural beauty.

The Genesis and Evolution of the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival
The Vermont Cheesemakers Festival itself boasts a compelling origin story, rooted in the passion and foresight of two pioneers of the state’s dairy industry: Allison Hooper and Bob Reese, co-founders of Vermont Creamery. The festival was conceived as a grand celebration of Vermont cheesemaking, coinciding with Vermont Creamery’s 20th anniversary. Their initial premise was wonderfully straightforward: create a vibrant platform where Vermont’s exceptional cheesemakers could converge, allowing enthusiasts to savor a vast array of cheeses, discover novel creations, and depart with coolers notably heavier than when they arrived.
Now in its 13th year, the festival has blossomed from this simple idea into an indispensable annual event, a cornerstone of the regional culinary calendar. It has become a crucial nexus for networking among producers, a vital direct-to-consumer market, and an educational forum for the public to deepen their appreciation for artisanal cheese. Over the years, the festival has consistently drawn an eclectic mix of local residents, culinary tourists, and food media, all eager to experience the bounty of Vermont’s dairy landscape. Its continued success is a testament to the enduring quality of Vermont’s cheesemaking tradition and the unwavering dedication of its community of producers.
A Reporter’s Immersion in Vermont Cheese Week
My own journey to the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival began with a two-night stay at the elegant Inn at Shelburne Farms. This afforded a precious opportunity to truly settle into the rhythm and grandeur of the property, soaking in the serene ambiance that defines this remarkable estate. Each evening, as dusk painted the sky over Lake Champlain, I enjoyed cocktails on the porch, followed by exquisite dinners in the historic dining room. The camaraderie among guests was palpable, culminating in a late-night round of billiards, where stories and laughter flowed freely. It is unequivocally clear why families return to this enchanting locale year after year; its ability to foster a sense of belonging and timeless comfort makes it an ideal setting for a festival celebrating the heart and soul of Vermont’s cheesemakers.
The festival day itself was a whirlwind of delightful discoveries. The Breeding Barn, a magnificent structure that once housed prize horses, was now filled with the intoxicating aromas of countless cheeses, the lively chatter of producers, and the eager murmurs of attendees. It was a true culmination of Vermont Cheese Week, a vibrant testament to the state’s thriving artisanal food culture. Surrounded by some of the most dedicated and talented cheesemakers in the nation, and an astonishing quantity of cheese, the experience was nothing short of a gastronomic dream. The following are a few of the standout creations that continue to resonate in my memory and on my palate.
Supporting Data: A Deep Dive into Vermont’s Culinary Treasures
Woodlawn Creamery – Rupert Reserve
Woodlawn Creamery, known for its dedication to traditional cheesemaking techniques and commitment to showcasing the unique terroir of Vermont, introduced a truly remarkable addition to its esteemed lineup: Rupert Reserve. This exquisite cheese represents a significant milestone for the creamery, made possible by their ability to age wheels for a full 12 months. This extended maturation period is a testament to the creamery’s patience and strategic planning, allowing the cheese to develop a profound depth of character. The wait, without question, is profoundly rewarded. Rupert Reserve presents a complex symphony of flavors – rich, savory, and distinctly nutty, with a concentrated intensity that only comes with significant time spent in the controlled environment of the cheese cellar. Its texture is firm yet yielding, dissolving on the tongue to release layers of caramelized sweetness and earthy undertones. This Reserve feels like a confident new chapter for a cheese I already admired, signaling Woodlawn Creamery’s continued evolution and mastery. It’s a cheese that demands attention and promises to become a sought-after staple for connoisseurs.
Wilson Farm – Shiso Ice Cream
Wilson Farm, traditionally recognized for its diverse cultivation of herbs, has recently ventured into the realm of artisanal ice cream, and the results are as innovative as they are delicious. Their new line of ice creams is a bold exploration of botanical flavors, featuring imaginative creations such as Spruce Tip and Golden Milk. What sets these offerings apart is the farm-to-cone philosophy: the ice cream is crafted using high-quality milk sourced from a neighboring dairy farm, while the distinctive botanicals are lovingly grown on Wilson Farm’s own fertile land. The Shiso ice cream was an undisputed highlight, captivating with its delicate, herbaceous, and subtly peppery notes. Shiso, a vibrant Asian herb, imparts a refreshing and slightly minty quality that is both surprising and utterly harmonious in an ice cream. Its inherent flexibility means this flavor can effortlessly transition between sweet dessert applications, perhaps paired with fresh berries, or even daring savory contexts, such as an accompaniment to grilled fish or a light salad. This pioneering approach from Wilson Farm speaks volumes about the creative potential within Vermont’s agricultural community.

Vermont Farmstead Cheese – Fat Tire Alehouse Cheddar
Vermont Farmstead Cheese Co., a collective of farmers and cheesemakers dedicated to preserving Vermont’s agricultural landscape through sustainable practices, has ingeniously married two beloved classics with their Fat Tire Alehouse Cheddar. This distinctive cheese is crafted with New Belgium’s iconic Fat Tire Ale, resulting in a collaboration that celebrates both craft beer and artisanal cheese. The company aptly describes it as an "easygoing, well-balanced combination," and this assessment holds true. While I wouldn’t typically categorize myself as a traditional beer cheese aficionado, this particular rendition offers a nuanced and approachable profile. The ale infuses the cheddar with a subtle malty sweetness and a faint, pleasant bitterness that complements the cheese’s inherent tanginess without overwhelming it. The cheddar itself boasts a firm yet creamy texture, making it an excellent candidate for a cheese board, a gourmet grilled cheese sandwich, or simply enjoyed on its own. It’s a testament to Vermont Farmstead Cheese Co.’s ability to innovate within the classic cheddar framework, appealing to a broad spectrum of palates.
Small Oven Pastries – Macs & Cheese (Dark Side of the Blue)
Small Oven Pastries, an artisanal bakery celebrated for its exquisite French macarons, unveiled an audacious and utterly brilliant collaboration with 5th Quarter Butcher + Provisions: the "Macs & Cheese" collection. This imaginative series of macarons is not merely inspired by Vermont cheese but ingeniously incorporates it directly into the confectionary. The standout flavor, "Dark Side of the Blue," was a revelation. This macaron features a bold combination of dark chocolate, aromatic anise hyssop, and the revered Bayley Hazen Blue cheese from Jasper Hill Farm. On paper, such a pairing might raise eyebrows, but the execution is flawless and utterly captivating. The Bayley Hazen Blue, with its distinct earthy piquancy and salty notes, provides a sophisticated counterpoint to the intense richness of the dark chocolate. The anise hyssop introduces a bright, almost licorice-like herbal freshness that elegantly cuts through the richness, preventing the macaron from feeling too heavy or cloying. This daring creation showcases the limitless possibilities when skilled artisans push the boundaries of flavor, transforming seemingly disparate ingredients into a harmonious and unforgettable culinary experience.
von Trapp Farmstead – Mad River Blue
Nestled in the picturesque Mad River Valley, von Trapp Farmstead operates as a certified organic dairy, embodying a philosophy of sustainable agriculture and animal welfare. Their Mad River Blue, a cow’s milk blue cheese, is a testament to the exceptional quality of their organic milk. This cheese is characterized by its rich, fudgy texture that melts luxuriously on the palate. The blue veining, while visually striking, delivers a mild and approachable piquancy, rather than an aggressive bite, making it highly appealing even to those who might typically shy away from stronger blue cheeses. Flavor notes of warm cocoa, hints of dried fruit, and a deep, satisfying umami pervade each bite, creating a complex and comforting profile. Mad River Blue is a cheese that speaks of its origins – the pristine Vermont landscape, the healthy cows, and the dedicated hands that craft it. It is a versatile blue, equally at home crumbled over a salad, melted into a creamy sauce, or savored alongside a glass of robust red wine.
Tucker Hill Cheese – Milestone
Tucker Hill Cheese, one of Vermont’s most exciting new entrants to the artisanal cheesemaking scene, immediately captured my attention with their "Milestone" cheese. This innovative creamery’s take on the classic raclette is aged for two to three months, a period during which it develops a stunning natural rind that hints at the complexity within. The Milestone offers a distinctly lactic character, a fresh and tangy acidity that invigorates the palate. Its texture is velvety smooth, almost melt-in-your-mouth, with a subtle funkiness that adds intrigue without being overpowering. The finish is remarkably clean, leaving a lingering impression of quality and craftsmanship. Milestone embodies everything I cherish in a cheese: it’s approachable yet sophisticated, deeply flavorful yet balanced. As a newer producer, Tucker Hill Cheese is already demonstrating an impressive command of their craft, and Milestone is a clear indication that they are a cheesemaker to watch, promising more exceptional creations in the years to come.
Shelburne Farms – Smoked Cheddar
It felt particularly fitting to experience a cheese from the host farm itself, and Shelburne Farms’ Smoked Cheddar did not disappoint. This cheddar begins its life as their excellent 6-month raw-milk cheddar, a testament to their own dairy and cheesemaking expertise. It then undergoes a cold-smoking process over hickory wood for a meticulous six hours. This careful technique imbues the cheese with a subtle, delicate sweetness and just the right amount of smoky aroma and flavor, ensuring it complements rather than overwhelms the inherent character of the cheddar. The result is a beautifully balanced cheese that is both comforting and sophisticated. I had the pleasure of enjoying a slice of this Smoked Cheddar with a crisp glass of Chardonnay on the back porch of the Inn, overlooking the tranquil expanse of Lake Champlain. It was precisely the kind of perfectly appointed snack one craves in such an idyllic setting. The Inn’s house-made apple preserves proved to be an impeccable match, their bright fruitiness cutting through the richness of the cheese and enhancing its nuanced flavors.
High Drive Distillery – Gin
Venturing beyond cheese, the festival also highlighted other exceptional craft producers, including High Drive Distillery. Operating from a family farm in northern Vermont, High Drive Distillery distinguishes itself by using organic grains that are both grown and milled directly on their property – a true farm-to-bottle operation. Their 93-proof gin is a masterclass in botanical blending, featuring a core of juniper harmoniously balanced with red clover, dandelion root, and seven other carefully selected botanicals. The resulting spirit showcases an impressive botanical complexity that is remarkably layered without ever becoming overwhelming. It is exceptionally smooth on the palate, a testament to the quality of their ingredients and distillation process. The gin boasts a bright, vibrant, and herbaceous character that makes it superb in cocktails, yet equally enjoyable simply over ice. High Drive Distillery exemplifies the holistic approach to craft production that is increasingly defining Vermont’s artisanal landscape.

Big Picture Farm – Goat Milk Caramel Nibbles
Big Picture Farm, nestled in Townshend, Vermont, has cultivated an entire confectionery universe centered around the rich, creamy goodness of goat milk. While renowned for their exquisite goat milk caramels, their Goat Milk Caramel Nibbles offer a delightful, bite-sized expression of their celebrated craft. These delectable morsels capture the signature creamy texture and distinctive, subtle tang of goat milk, enrobed in a smooth, high-quality chocolate. The farm’s commitment to quality is evident in every bite, from the ethically sourced ingredients to the meticulous preparation. Beyond the Nibbles, Big Picture Farm’s range extends to various chocolate-covered caramels, indulgent truffles, and an array of other goat milk-based sweets, showcasing the versatility and appeal of this often-underestimated dairy product. Their presence at the festival underscored the broader artisanal movement in Vermont, where high-quality dairy extends beyond cheese into a world of gourmet confections.
Official Responses: Uniting a Community of Artisans
The palpable energy at the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival is a testament to the vision of its founders and the dedication of its participants. Allison Hooper, co-founder of Vermont Creamery, often speaks of the festival as a "gathering of the tribe," emphasizing its role in fostering community among cheesemakers. "Our initial goal was simple: to celebrate the incredible talent and passion of Vermont’s dairy farmers and cheesemakers," Hooper stated in a recent interview. "Thirteen years on, it’s grown into something even more profound – a vital platform for innovation, education, and direct connection with the people who truly appreciate what we do. It’s about sharing our craft, our stories, and our love for this land."
This sentiment is echoed by many of the participating artisans. "The festival isn’t just a place to sell cheese; it’s where we reconnect with our peers, learn from each other, and hear directly from our customers," remarked a cheesemaker from a small, independent creamery. "That feedback is invaluable, and the sense of camaraderie is truly inspiring." From the perspective of Shelburne Farms, hosting the event is a natural extension of their mission. "The festival perfectly aligns with our commitment to education and sustainability," noted a spokesperson for Shelburne Farms. "By showcasing Vermont’s incredible cheesemakers, we highlight the importance of local agriculture, responsible land stewardship, and the vibrant economic ecosystem that supports our rural communities. It’s a powerful demonstration of learning from the land in action." The collective response clearly indicates that the festival is more than just an event; it’s a vital institution that nourishes both the state’s economy and its unique cultural identity.
Implications: Sustaining a Legacy of Excellence and Innovation
The Vermont Cheesemakers Festival is far more than an annual gastronomic indulgence; it is a critical pillar supporting the state’s vibrant agricultural economy and its deeply ingrained cultural identity. The implications of such an event ripple across multiple sectors, reinforcing Vermont’s reputation as a leader in artisanal food production.
Economic Impact
Firstly, the festival serves as a significant economic driver for local producers. By providing a direct sales platform and invaluable exposure, it helps small and medium-sized cheesemakers, distilleries, and confectioners reach a broader audience, fostering brand loyalty and driving sales throughout the year. The influx of culinary tourists also boosts local businesses, including hotels, restaurants, and other attractions, contributing substantially to the state’s tourism revenue. Furthermore, the networking opportunities at the festival can lead to new collaborations and partnerships, stimulating innovation and market expansion within the industry.
Cultural Significance
Culturally, the festival solidifies Vermont’s identity as a premier cheesemaking region, a "Napa Valley of Cheese." It celebrates a heritage rooted in family farms and a commitment to quality that has been passed down through generations. The event helps to educate the public about the complexities of cheesemaking, the nuances of different milk types, and the importance of supporting local agriculture, thereby cultivating a more discerning and appreciative consumer base. It reinforces the value of craftsmanship and the unique character that Vermont’s terroir imparts to its products.

Sustainability and Education
The choice of Shelburne Farms as the venue underscores a deeper message of sustainability and education. The farm’s mission to foster a more sustainable and just world through "learning from the land" resonates deeply with the ethos of many artisanal producers. The festival implicitly champions responsible farming practices, animal welfare, and environmental stewardship, demonstrating how quality food production can coexist with ecological balance. It educates consumers about the journey of food from farm to table, fostering a greater understanding and appreciation for sustainable food systems.
Future Outlook
Looking ahead, the continued success and evolution of the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival suggest a bright future for Vermont’s artisanal food scene. The innovation showcased, from botanical ice creams to cheese-infused macarons, indicates a dynamic industry unafraid to experiment and push boundaries while honoring tradition. The festival acts as a barometer for new trends and emerging talents, ensuring that Vermont remains at the forefront of the craft food movement. As consumers increasingly seek out authentic, high-quality, and locally sourced products, events like this festival will only grow in importance, further cementing Vermont’s reputation as a culinary destination of distinction and a model for sustainable agricultural practices. The enduring appeal of Vermont’s cheese, and the passion of its creators, promises many more delicious chapters to come.


