Melbourne, Australia – [Date of publication, e.g., October 26, 2026] – Melbourne’s discerning diners and culinary aficionados are abuzz with the highly anticipated arrival of Côte Basque, the latest venture from acclaimed restaurateur Andrew McConnell and his partner Jo McGann’s Trader House group. Opening its doors in the hallowed space previously occupied by the iconic Becco, Côte Basque not only marks Trader House’s first new restaurant in Melbourne since the triumphant launch of Gimlet in 2020 but also breathes a vibrant, wood-fired, Basque-inspired new life into a cherished city landmark. The initial weeks have seen the restaurant consistently packed, systems seamlessly integrating, and the verdict unequivocally positive: McConnell and his team have, once again, "nailed the landing."
The restaurant’s immediate success is a testament to the meticulous vision behind it, blending a respect for the site’s rich history with a fresh, compelling culinary concept. Côte Basque champions the bold, unpretentious flavours of the Basque region in south-west France, focusing on a primal connection to the grill, while weaving in broader French and Spanish influences. This gastronomic philosophy, coupled with the breathtaking transformation of the 1950s-era interior by ACME, the design studio behind Gimlet, creates an atmosphere of both sophisticated nostalgia and contemporary vibrancy. With Chef Allan Doert Eccles at the helm of the open kitchen, harnessing the power of wood and charcoal, Côte Basque promises an exciting new chapter for Melbourne’s dynamic culinary landscape.
Main Facts: A Culinary Phoenix Rises
The opening of Côte Basque represents a significant moment for Melbourne’s hospitality industry, signaling both a revival of a beloved physical space and the continued evolution of one of Australia’s most influential culinary empires. Andrew McConnell, a name synonymous with gastronomic excellence in Melbourne, along with Jo McGann, has meticulously crafted Côte Basque as a destination that marries historical reverence with modern culinary flair.
Situated in the former Becco site, a venue that held a special place in the hearts of Melburnians for over two decades, Côte Basque inherits a legacy of convivial dining. The decision to establish their latest offering here was not taken lightly, acknowledging the "trepidatious" nature of transforming such an iconic address. However, early indications suggest that this bold move has paid off handsomely, with the restaurant garnering widespread acclaim in its nascent stages.
At its core, Côte Basque is an homage to the simple yet profound grill restaurants that dot the Basque region. This inspiration translates into an open kitchen, commanded by Chef Allan Doert Eccles, where wood and charcoal are the primary tools, imparting a distinctive smoky depth to a diverse array of dishes. While the Basque influence is undeniable and central, McConnell’s vision extends beyond strict regional adherence, allowing for a broader exploration of French and Spanish culinary traditions, resulting in a menu that is both focused and expansive.
The aesthetic journey of Côte Basque is as compelling as its culinary one. ACME, the renowned design studio responsible for the celebrated interiors of Gimlet, has masterfully navigated the challenge of renovating a historic space. Instead of a complete overhaul, their approach has been one of thoughtful preservation and enhancement. The original 1950s features – including the distinctive stepped layout, the lush green terrazzo floor, the elegant angled steel-framed windows, and the warm cherrywood panelling – have been meticulously restored and celebrated. Complementing these heritage elements are new additions, most notably the striking Magnus Reid mural in the bar area and a carefully curated warm, earthy colour palette that imbues the entire venue with a sophisticated yet inviting ambiance. This harmonious blend of old and new firmly establishes Côte Basque not just as a restaurant, but as a living piece of Melbourne’s architectural and cultural tapestry.
Chronology: From Iconic Past to Promising Future
The journey to Côte Basque’s grand opening is steeped in history and punctuated by a series of strategic decisions that underscore Trader House’s profound understanding of Melbourne’s dining landscape.
Andrew McConnell’s Enduring Legacy: For over two decades, Andrew McConnell has been a pivotal force in shaping Melbourne’s culinary identity. From the sophisticated fine dining of Cutler & Co. to the pan-Asian delights of Supernormal and the European grandeur of Gimlet, his portfolio reflects an unparalleled commitment to quality, innovation, and an innate ability to capture the city’s evolving palate. Each new opening from Trader House is met with immense anticipation, and Côte Basque was no exception, carrying the weight of "raised expectations" that only a McConnell restaurant can command.
The Becco Era (1990s – 2020s): Before Côte Basque, the 117 Russell Street address was synonymous with Becco, a much-loved Italian institution that thrived for over twenty years. Becco was celebrated for its consistent quality, vibrant atmosphere, and its role as a quintessential Melbourne dining experience. Its closure left a void, but also presented a rare opportunity for a visionary like McConnell to reimagine and revitalise a space imbued with significant gastronomic memory. The site’s unique 1950s architectural characteristics were already a draw, and the challenge lay in honouring this heritage while forging a new identity.
Gimlet’s Benchmark (2020): The last major opening from the Trader House stable was Gimlet at Cavendish House in 2020. Despite launching amidst the tumultuous backdrop of a global pandemic, Gimlet quickly cemented its status as one of Australia’s premier dining destinations, earning numerous accolades for its opulent design, impeccable service, and refined menu. Gimlet’s success set an incredibly high bar for any subsequent Trader House venture, amplifying the scrutiny and anticipation surrounding Côte Basque. The four-year gap between the two major openings only served to heighten the city’s eagerness for McConnell’s next culinary statement.
Conception of Côte Basque: The inspiration for Côte Basque stems from Andrew McConnell’s deep appreciation for the culinary traditions of the Basque region. His travels through south-west France revealed a dining culture focused on simplicity, quality ingredients, and the transformative power of open-fire cooking. This ethos resonated deeply with McConnell, who saw an opportunity to bring this elemental, yet sophisticated, style of cuisine to Melbourne, adapting it with his signature refined touch. The concept of a wood and charcoal-powered kitchen became central to this vision, promising dishes that speak of tradition yet are executed with modern precision.
Design and Renovation Process: The transformation of the former Becco site into Côte Basque was a collaborative effort led by ACME, the architectural and interior design firm renowned for their work on Gimlet and other high-profile projects. The design brief was clear: respect the existing architectural grandeur of the 1950s building while infusing it with a distinct Basque-inspired warmth and contemporary elegance. This involved a meticulous restoration of original features – the iconic green terrazzo floor, the striking stepped layout that creates intimate dining zones, the distinctive angled steel-framed windows, and the rich cherrywood panelling – ensuring their longevity and prominence. New elements, such as the captivating mural by Magnus Reid in the bar area and a cohesive palette of warm, earthy tones, were introduced to complement rather than overpower the existing character. The goal was to create a space that felt both timeless and fresh, sophisticated yet welcoming, a true reflection of the Côte Basque culinary philosophy.
Pre-opening Buzz and Launch: News of McConnell’s new venture in such an iconic location quickly spread throughout Melbourne’s fervent food community. The combination of McConnell’s reputation, the beloved site, and the intriguing Basque concept generated significant buzz. Reservations filled rapidly upon announcement, a clear indicator of the city’s readiness for this new dining experience. From its soft opening to the bustling early weeks, Côte Basque has consistently been "packed," a testament to the enduring allure of Trader House and the magnetic appeal of its latest creation.
Supporting Data: A Symphony of Design and Flavour
Côte Basque’s success is deeply rooted in the meticulous details of its design and the innovative execution of its culinary vision. Every element, from the texture of the terrazzo to the char on the calamari, contributes to a cohesive and captivating dining experience.
Architectural and Design Resonance:
ACME’s approach to Côte Basque is a masterclass in respectful restoration and inspired enhancement. The studio’s reverence for the site’s original 1950s features is palpable. The stepped layout of the dining room, a characteristic rarely seen in contemporary designs, has been preserved and celebrated, creating intimate yet interconnected zones that flow seamlessly. This architectural quirk lends itself to a dynamic dining environment, offering varied perspectives and a sense of discovery. The green terrazzo floor, a hallmark of mid-century elegance, has been meticulously restored, its subtle imperfections telling a story of decades past while providing a grounding, luxurious foundation for the space. The angled steel-framed windows are not merely functional but artistic elements, allowing natural light to flood the interior and offering glimpses of the bustling Russell Street, creating a sense of connection to the city outside. The rich cherrywood panelling adds warmth, texture, and a touch of classic sophistication, echoing the timeless appeal of European bistros.
To these cherished foundations, ACME has layered contemporary elements that elevate the aesthetic. The Magnus Reid mural in the bar area is a particular highlight, adding an artistic focal point that is both modern and evocative, hinting at the restaurant’s coastal inspirations. The warm, earthy colour palette, dominated by terracotta, ochre, and deep greens, creates an enveloping ambiance that is both chic and comfortable. This thoughtful design ensures Côte Basque feels both familiar and entirely new, a sophisticated stage for the culinary drama unfolding within.
Culinary Philosophy and Menu Highlights:
The heart of Côte Basque beats to the rhythm of its open kitchen, primarily powered by wood and charcoal. This commitment to elemental cooking is not merely a stylistic choice but a fundamental aspect of the Basque culinary tradition that McConnell admires. The intense, dry heat and smoky aromatics imparted by wood and charcoal transform ingredients, bringing out their natural flavours with unparalleled depth.
Chef Allan Doert Eccles, working alongside McConnell, translates this philosophy into a menu that is at once robust and refined:
- Calamari à la brute: This dish exemplifies the restaurant’s ability to fuse simplicity with complexity. Whole calamari, perfectly grilled over charcoal, achieves a delicate tenderness with a subtle smokiness. It is served atop creamy, braised chickpeas, providing a comforting counterpoint, and finished with a fragrant sauce crafted from squid ink, fish broth, rosemary, and bay leaf. The result is a dish that is deceptively simple in presentation but rich in layered flavours and textures.
- Txistorra and Octopus Combo: A powerful flavour bomb that directly references Basque culinary staples. Txistorra, a spicy, cured Basque-style sausage, is grilled until slightly crisp, its piquant notes cutting through the rich, smoky tenderness of grilled octopus. This pairing creates a delightful salty-smoky interplay that is both satisfying and addictive.
- Anchovy Matrimony: A standout snack, this dish celebrates the revered anchovy. It features a harmonious combination of fresh boquerones (marinated white anchovies) and cured salted anchovies, served generously with cultured butter on toasted sourdough. It’s a testament to the power of high-quality ingredients handled with respect.
- Gilda Riff: A sophisticated reinterpretation of the classic Basque pintxo. Here, blue eye trevalla crudo takes centre stage, its delicate texture and flavour enhanced by a vibrant sauce of finely diced white onion, piquant guindilla peppers, and briny green olives. Described as "knee-weakeningly good," it’s a testament to the kitchen’s ability to elevate traditional flavours.
Beyond the overtly Basque-inspired dishes, Côte Basque’s two-page menu demonstrates a broader appreciation for European culinary excellence. One side offers a regularly changing selection of grilled seafood and beef, highlighting the kitchen’s mastery of the open fire. The other side lists dishes that nod more generally to the rich gastronomic traditions of France and Spain, showcasing versatility and creative freedom:
- Roast Duck: A perfectly rosy-pink roast duck, succulent and tender, served with a rich sauce made from Madeira-soaked prunes. This dish speaks to classic French technique, demonstrating the kitchen’s range beyond the grill.
- Blue Swimmer Crab Tart: A delicate, two-bite tart housed in a crisp buckwheat shell, filled with the sweet, fresh meat of blue swimmer crab. It’s an elegant, flavourful bite that offers a lighter counterpoint to the grill.
- Blood Orange and Olive Oil Glacé: A dessert that beautifully balances acidity and richness, offering a refreshing and sophisticated end to the meal.
- Geographically Democratic Wine List: The wine program is designed to complement the diverse menu, featuring selections that span both the Basque region and wider European vineyards, ensuring there is a perfect pairing for every dish and palate.
Trader House’s Vision and Melbourne’s Dining Landscape:
Côte Basque slots seamlessly into the Trader House portfolio, yet stands distinctly apart. It reinforces Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann’s commitment to creating unique dining experiences that resonate with Melbourne’s sophisticated audience. In a city renowned for its competitive and dynamic dining scene, Côte Basque offers a refreshing take on European cuisine, leveraging the enduring appeal of quality ingredients and primal cooking techniques. Its presence further solidifies Melbourne’s reputation as a global food capital, continually pushing boundaries while celebrating fundamental culinary truths.
Official Responses: Articulating the Vision
While direct quotes from all parties involved may not always be available in the immediate aftermath of an opening, the narrative of Côte Basque clearly communicates the intent and passion driving this ambitious project.
Andrew McConnell’s decision to open in the former Becco site was undoubtedly met with a mix of excitement and "trepidation," as noted in early reviews. One can infer his perspective on this challenge: "Taking over a venue with such a rich history like Becco presents a unique opportunity and a significant responsibility. Our aim was never to erase what was there, but to celebrate its bones, infuse it with a new spirit, and build something fresh that respects its past while looking firmly to the future of Melbourne dining." His long-standing admiration for the "simple grill restaurants" of the Basque region has been a foundational inspiration, suggesting a desire to bring a refined yet approachable version of this culinary tradition to the city. "The beauty of Basque cooking lies in its directness, its focus on incredible produce and the transformative power of fire. We wanted to capture that essence – that elemental connection to the grill – and weave it into a broader narrative that explores the rich tapestry of French and Spanish flavours."
Jo McGann, as co-owner of Trader House, likely views Côte Basque as a strategic expansion that diversifies their acclaimed portfolio while maintaining the group’s signature standard of excellence. "Every Trader House venue tells its own story, and Côte Basque is no different. It’s about creating a place where people can gather, connect, and enjoy exceptional food in a beautiful setting. We believe this concept, in this iconic location, will resonate deeply with Melburnians and visitors alike."
Chef Allan Doert Eccles, at the heart of the kitchen, is instrumental in translating McConnell’s vision into tangible dishes. His passion for the wood and charcoal cooking is evident in the menu’s execution. One can imagine him stating, "Working with wood and charcoal is a chef’s dream – it’s primal, challenging, and incredibly rewarding. It allows us to imbue ingredients with a unique depth of flavour that can’t be replicated. Dishes like the Calamari à la brute or the Txistorra and octopus are perfect examples of how these techniques elevate simple, high-quality produce."
ACME, the design studio, would undoubtedly articulate their approach as one of respectful dialogue between eras. Their commitment to "fully embrac[ing] the beauty of the site’s original 1950s features" while introducing new elements speaks volumes. "Our goal was to honour the architectural legacy of the building – its unique layout, the incredible terrazzo, the period details – and then weave in contemporary layers that speak to Côte Basque’s identity. The Magnus Reid mural and the earthy palette are designed to enhance, not overshadow, creating a space that feels both inherently Melbourne and distinctly Basque."
Implications: A New Landmark for Melbourne
The successful launch and early acclaim of Côte Basque carry significant implications for Melbourne’s dining scene, the Trader House empire, and the broader hospitality industry.
Impact on Melbourne’s Dining Scene: Côte Basque further solidifies Andrew McConnell’s status as a culinary titan, demonstrating his enduring ability to innovate and captivate. His ventures consistently set new benchmarks for quality, design, and culinary ambition. The success of Côte Basque will undoubtedly inspire other restaurateurs, potentially sparking a renewed interest in Basque cuisine or wood-fired cooking techniques. It injects a fresh energy into the city’s gastronomic landscape, offering a sophisticated yet accessible option that appeals to a wide demographic. The revitalisation of the former Becco site also serves as a powerful example of how cherished urban spaces can be reimagined for new generations of diners, preserving history while fostering innovation.
Economic and Cultural Impact: The opening of a restaurant of this calibre creates a ripple effect throughout the local economy. It generates numerous jobs, from kitchen and front-of-house staff to local suppliers and artisans. As a new culinary destination, Côte Basque is likely to attract both local food enthusiasts and tourists, increasing foot traffic in the precinct and benefiting surrounding businesses. Culturally, it enriches Melbourne’s diverse culinary offerings, exposing diners to a specific regional cuisine adapted with a world-class touch. It fosters a greater appreciation for architectural preservation and thoughtful design within the hospitality sector.
Future Prospects for Trader House: For Andrew McConnell and Jo McGann’s Trader House, Côte Basque represents another jewel in their crown, showcasing their versatility and consistent pursuit of excellence. Its strong initial performance reinforces their business model and strategic vision. This success could pave the way for future expansions, either in Melbourne or beyond, as they continue to explore new culinary territories and refine existing concepts. The ability to seamlessly integrate a new restaurant concept into an existing iconic structure demonstrates a maturity and confidence that bodes well for the group’s long-term trajectory.
Enhanced Consumer Experience: Ultimately, the most significant implication is for the diner. Côte Basque offers a truly exceptional and memorable experience. Patrons can expect not just expertly prepared food, but an immersive atmosphere that stimulates all senses. The combination of the stunning, historically rich yet contemporarily refined interior, the captivating theatre of the open wood and charcoal kitchen, the warm and professional service, and the exquisite, flavour-driven menu culminates in a dining experience that is both sophisticated and deeply satisfying. As the article suggests, Côte Basque possesses "rock solid foundations," indicating a restaurant built for longevity and destined to "age brilliantly into the future," becoming another cherished institution in Melbourne’s celebrated culinary story.
