The host of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place shares why cheese is worthy of the quest, delving into decades of global exploration and the profound stories behind every wheel.

For over a quarter of a century, Australian cheese legend Will Studd has been a relentless interrogator of cheese, pushing beyond mere sensory evaluation to uncover the intricate tapestry of its existence. His pursuit extends far beyond "how it tastes," venturing into profound questions: Where does a cheese truly originate? What ancient traditions and local customs have meticulously shaped its character over generations? And what are the ramifications when these deeply rooted traditions clash with the inexorable forces of modern regulation, industrialization, corporate consolidation, and ever-shifting consumer expectations? More critically, what invaluable essence is irrevocably lost when a cheese becomes severed from the specific place it was born and the dedicated people who lovingly crafted it?

These existential questions form the very heart and soul of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, Studd’s latest magnum opus and a project he himself describes as a "legacy project." It culminates decades spent traversing the globe as an esteemed cheese educator, affineur (a specialist in aging cheese), prolific author, and insightful filmmaker. The captivating documentary series masterfully navigates between the hallowed, historic cheesemaking regions of Europe and the vibrant, continually evolving landscape of American artisan cheese. Across its episodes, Studd meticulously explores a diverse array of critical themes, ranging from the profound implications of raw milk and the elusive concept of terroir, to the challenges of succession in family dairies, the complexities of scaling production, and the perpetual struggle to preserve a cheese’s intrinsic character as global demand relentlessly escalates.

Ahead of its global release, Culture Media had the privilege of speaking with Studd about what the evocative phrase "taste of place" truly signifies after a lifetime dedicated to its pursuit. He shared intimate reflections on the cheesemakers and the conversations that left an indelible mark on his journey, and articulated with unwavering conviction why he continues to believe that artisan cheese – and the remarkably stubborn, passionate individuals who dedicate their lives to making it – possesses a future undeniably worth fighting for.

A Legacy Forged in Flavor and Place

Will Studd is not merely a commentator; he is an institution in the world of cheese. His journey began not just with an appreciation for flavor, but with an insatiable curiosity about the stories embedded within each bite. This curiosity blossomed into a professional life dedicated to understanding and advocating for traditional cheesemaking. His work, spanning over 25 years, has consistently championed authenticity and the inherent value of small-scale, artisanal production in the face of an increasingly homogenized food system.

The Enduring Questions

Studd’s foundational questions highlight a critical tension in the modern food world: the struggle between preserving heritage and succumbing to commercial pressures. He observes how industrial processes can strip cheese of its unique identity, transforming it from a reflection of its environment and culture into a standardized commodity. The documentary serves as a profound meditation on this loss, offering viewers a chance to reconnect with the deeper significance of what they consume. It’s a call to arms for greater appreciation of the craftsmanship, the landscape, and the human endeavor behind truly great cheese.

From "Slices" to a "Taste of Place"

Before Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, Studd was widely recognized for his groundbreaking series Cheese Slices. That program, which aired over two decades and explored cheesemaking in 22 countries across 62 episodes, established him as a leading voice in cheese education. Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place builds upon this extensive foundation, refining the narrative and deepening the inquiry. It represents a more focused, philosophical exploration, aiming to encapsulate his life’s work and offer a definitive statement on the importance of cheese as a cultural artifact. This "legacy project" is not just another documentary; it’s a culmination, a testament to a lifetime of dedication to the world of artisan cheese.

A Quarter-Century of Curd: The Chronology of a Cheese Evangelist

Studd’s career in cheese has been a continuous evolution, marked by an unwavering commitment to exploration and education. His initial ventures as an affineur – someone who ages and refines cheese – gave him an intimate understanding of the transformative power of time and environment on a cheese’s character. This hands-on experience then fueled his passion for sharing these insights with a broader audience through books, television, and now, a deeply personal documentary series.

The Evolution of an Obsession

The shift from writing books to producing documentary series like Cheese Slices and Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place was a strategic one for Studd, driven by a desire for wider impact. "If you want to make a difference, film wins!" he emphatically states, contrasting the limited print run of his books with the global reach of his streaming series. This strategic pivot allowed him to bring the vibrant stories and stunning visuals of cheesemaking directly into millions of homes worldwide, transcending linguistic and geographical barriers in a way that print simply could not. The success of Cheese Slices, which continues to stream globally, underscored the power of visual storytelling in conveying the magic of artisan cheese.

Capturing History and Innovation

The production of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place itself was a significant undertaking, requiring more than three years to complete and entirely self-funded by Studd. This commitment reflects the depth of his belief in the project’s message. The documentary’s chronology unfolds across various regions, weaving together historical narratives with contemporary challenges. From the ancient origins of Greek Galotyri, potentially the world’s oldest surviving spreadable cheese, to the modern renaissance of Camembert Fernier in Normandy, the series presents a rich tapestry of cheesemaking history. It also highlights the relatively recent explosion of the American artisan cheese movement, which has transformed from a niche pursuit 20 or 30 years ago into a globally recognized force, winning prestigious international awards. This chronological sweep underscores both the timelessness of cheesemaking traditions and the dynamic evolution of the craft in response to new environments and passionate innovators.

Unearthing the Essence: Supporting Data and Revelations

The documentary is replete with fascinating insights and "aha!" moments, showcasing Studd’s deep understanding and continuous learning. These revelations are not just anecdotal; they serve as critical data points in understanding the nuanced concept of "taste of place."

Decoding "Taste of Place": Raw Milk vs. Regulation

For Studd, the definition of "taste of place" is inextricably linked to raw milk. "I strongly believe that only cheese made from raw milk can claim to reflect a pure and authentic taste of place," he asserts. He sees unpasteurized milk as the "ultimate expression of the craft of cheesemaking," offering unparalleled flavor complexity, diversity, and integrity. This perspective stems from the belief that raw milk carries the unique microbial signature of the animal, its diet, and its environment – the very essence of terroir. However, Studd is also pragmatic, acknowledging the existence of "many delicious and interesting artisan cheeses made from pasteurized milk that have credible connections to place of origin." By presenting both perspectives, the series encourages viewers to form their own informed conclusions, fostering a deeper engagement with the ongoing debate surrounding raw milk cheese and its cultural significance.

Global Surprises and Local Insights

The filming process itself yielded a trove of unexpected discoveries that challenged Studd’s long-held assumptions. In Wisconsin, with cheesemaker Andy Hatch, he learned that a cow’s breath could serve as an indicator of milk quality – a testament to the intimate knowledge passed down through generations of dairy farmers. Visiting Delphine Carles in France, he discovered that January, not the commonly assumed May, yields the optimal milk for Roquefort, revealing the subtle seasonal shifts crucial to traditional cheesemaking. In Cyprus, the documentary uncovered how the type of milk and size of Halloumi was once strictly regional, highlighting the incredible diversity within a single cheese type. These specific examples underscore how "taste of place" is woven into minute details of production and local lore. The story of Camembert Fernier and Marie Harel, including the rebuilding of her statue with American dairy donations after WWII, serves as a powerful reminder of cheese’s role in cultural heritage and international solidarity.

The American Artisan Renaissance

Studd’s perspective on the American artisan cheese movement has evolved significantly over his decades of observation. He notes a dramatic transformation from the "dream of a few alternative counterculture dreamers" 25 years ago to a thriving industry producing "world-class, and now winning notable international awards." This revolution, he explains, is primarily driven by "consumer demand for cheese with distinctive flavors, texture and aromas." The US has undeniably cultivated its own unique cheese culture, moving beyond imitation to innovative excellence.

Filming in the US offered Studd further encouragement regarding the sustainable future of American artisan cheese. He was particularly inspired by Mateo Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont, who demonstrated how state-of-the-art dairy facilities can be integrated with time-honored traditional techniques to ensure exceptional flavor and integrity. Similarly, Andy Hatch at Uplands Cheese showcased how increased production could be achieved without compromising quality. The series also features illuminating interviews with influential figures like Dr. Catherine Donnelly, Ed Behr, and Cathy Strange, who share insights into the historical struggles and compelling drive for change that have shaped the American artisan cheese landscape.

Navigating Success and Succession

A recurring theme among American producers, regardless of their scale or cheese style, was the "challenge of success." Studd observed a universal dilemma: how to grow a successful operation without sacrificing the "fundamental character and diverse flavors of the original cheese." This challenge is compounded by increasing consumer demand, escalating finance and operating costs, stringent regulations, shifts in retail service, and the ever-present threat of corporate consolidation offers. The critical issue of succession – ensuring that family-owned dairies and their unique traditions can be passed down to the next generation – is also explored, revealing it to be a global concern, not unique to the US. This shared struggle underlines the fragility and resilience of artisan cheesemaking worldwide.

The Storyteller’s Craft: Official Responses and Artistic Choices

Studd’s journey from affineur to acclaimed filmmaker highlights the unique power of film in communicating the essence of cheese, a medium that transcends the limitations of print and even direct tasting.

Film’s Unique Power

While cheese is inherently sensory, Studd understands that film offers a different, yet equally powerful, mode of communication. He contrasts the broad reach of his documentaries with the more limited impact of books. "Film is about audience reach and numbers," he states, emphasizing that his 62 episodes of Cheese Slices streaming worldwide far outstrips the 20,000 copies of his now out-of-print books. For Studd, film is the most effective vehicle to "make a difference," to spark widespread interest and understanding.

Crafting the Narrative: Beyond Taste

The challenge of conveying taste and aroma on screen is a significant one, but Studd approaches it with a storyteller’s ingenuity. He believes that while film can’t replicate the direct experience of tasting, it can create a profound emotional and intellectual connection. "One of the great joys of sharing a truly exceptional cheese is that its character speaks for itself," he explains. On film, this translates into taking the viewer on a "beautiful visual journey," telling "the story behind the origin of a cheese in pictures to get them emotionally hooked on the idea," and then explaining "what to look out for in terms of flavor."

This documentary series also refined Studd’s role as a storyteller, a process he attributes significantly to his collaboration with award-winning documentarian Stuart Goodman. Goodman’s meticulous research, cross-checking, and passionate attention to production details, including commissioning a Mozart piano concerto for the soundtrack, added significant depth to Studd’s original concept. This partnership underscored the importance of not just having a story, but of expertly crafting its narrative to resonate deeply with an audience.

The Future of Fermentation: Implications and Optimism

Studd’s extensive travels and deep dives into cheesemaking traditions have instilled in him a profound optimism for the future of artisan cheese, despite the myriad challenges it faces.

Guardians of Tradition, Pioneers of Innovation

The most memorable cheesemakers Studd encountered share fundamental qualities: a foundation built on "close relationships and shared goals," an "obsession" that transcends mere business, and a deep conviction in "a cause to support and believe in with like-minded people." Their dedication, skill, patience, and intuition are "truly extraordinary," making the task of capturing their motivation on film "utterly fascinating."

These producers embody a delicate balance between preserving ancient traditions and embracing innovation. Studd acknowledges the vital importance of "respecting tradition and protecting time-honored cheesemaking techniques from extinction." However, he also recognizes that "change is not always harmful" and that "cheese has always evolved in response to circumstance." The artisan cheese revival itself is a testament to this dynamic evolution, born from consumers’ dissatisfaction with "predictable bland industrial cheese." Artisan cheesemakers have skillfully "adapted traditional techniques to innovate exciting new cheese with a point of difference." This adaptive spirit, he believes, is key to their continued success.

The Human Element of Terroir

The concept of "terroir" extends far beyond mere geography. Studd argues that while it begins with "good quality raw milk from healthy animals in a strictly defined region," it is ultimately "a complex and intricate web of factors, including people and culture," that truly influences a cheese’s unique character. The series offers a compelling comparison between Salers Tradition and Kirkham’s Lancashire, illustrating how geography, people, and culture are intrinsically linked to terroir. He also raises pertinent questions about the future implications of "clean raw milk devoid of microbes" and the increasing reliance on "modern industrial starters," suggesting a potential dilution of terroir if not carefully managed.

One of the most touching conversations that stayed with Studd was with David Gremmels, the visionary creator of the acclaimed Rogue River Blue. Filming on the day the large French group Savencia took ownership of the Rogue business, Studd witnessed Gremmels being locked out of his own creamery. "It was difficult to see David letting go of his dream," Studd recalls, acknowledging that "only time will tell how the takeover will shape his legacy." This poignant moment underscores the personal sacrifices and emotional investments inherent in artisan cheesemaking, and the vulnerability of these operations to the forces of consolidation.

A Lasting Impact

Ultimately, Studd hopes that viewers, even those new to the world of cheese, will gain more than just a desire to eat more of it. He aims to foster a "growing consumer awareness of what we eat, how it is made and where it comes from." By understanding the diverse choices available and "why it is different," consumers can make more informed decisions, thereby supporting the artisan movement. His optimism for the future of artisan cheese stems from this belief in consumer choice. He points to France, where "there are now more dedicated cheese shops than McDonald’s," as compelling evidence of the power of consumer preference for quality and authenticity.

For Studd, Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place represents a completed chapter, a "legacy project" that meticulously explains "why artisan cheese has value and deserves a rightful place on the table." While the three-year, self-funded journey was arduous, he views it as a profound achievement. Though he wouldn’t rule out another documentary, he states, "If it turns out to be the last, that is OK. I have achieved what I set out to do, and it’s been an incredibly fun ride getting there." His journey, however, continues to inspire, leaving an enduring legacy for cheese lovers and makers alike, reminding us all that a true "taste of place" is a treasure worth searching for.

Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place is distributed by Banijay and is available to stream online in many countries around the world.

Mallory Scyphers is culture’s Executive Content Director and has been with the company since 2018. She lives on Mobile Bay with her husband, two young daughters, one rambunctious golden retriever, and two loyal cats. Her favorite cheeses are alpine styles and mineral-y blues.