Beyond the Brisket: Steven Raichlen Ignites the Grill with a Celebration of Summer Vegetables
By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer
For those who regularly immerse themselves in the fiery world of barbecue, it’s easy to get swept away by the primal allure of sizzling steaks, succulent ribs, and slow-smoked pork shoulders. The aroma of rendered fat and the promise of deeply caramelized meat often dominate the conversation. Yet, amidst this carnivoran symphony, a vital question arises: has the celebrated pitmaster Steven Raichlen, a titan of the barbecue universe, forgotten the humble yet glorious world of vegetables?
The answer, emphatically, is no. As the calendar turns to August, the zenith of summer’s bounty, Raichlen and his wife have been transforming the grill into a vibrant canvas for the season’s freshest produce. From the comforting embrace of grilled corn pudding to the smoky sophistication of gazpacho, and the char-kissed depths of ember-roasted peppers and eggplants, their culinary adventures have left no vegetable unturned. It seems no leaf, root, or fruit has been spared the transformative kiss of fire this summer.
The Art and Science of Grilling Produce: A Masterclass in Versatility
The sheer diversity of vegetables presents a unique challenge and opportunity for the grill master. How does one approach grilling everything from the fibrous heart of an artichoke to the delicate flesh of a zucchini, often described as "little pumpkins"? Raichlen, a master of demystifying complex culinary techniques, acknowledges that each vegetable possesses its own distinct texture and flavor profile, demanding a tailored approach. In fact, his extensive knowledge is so profound that it has been distilled into a comprehensive guide, aptly titled How to Grill Vegetables.
At its core, Raichlen advocates for a fundamental understanding of how vegetables grow. He categorizes them into two primary groups: those that grow above ground and those that grow below.
Above-Ground Delights: Quick Searing for Maximum Flavor
Vegetables that flourish above ground typically boast a softer flesh and a higher moisture content. This category encompasses beloved summer staples such as tomatoes, mushrooms, peppers, zucchini, asparagus, and corn. These resilient ingredients are ideally suited for direct grilling over high heat. The intense heat sears their surfaces quickly, locking in moisture and imparting a desirable char. A simple yet effective preparation involves a brush of extra-virgin olive oil, seasoned generously with salt and pepper, allowing the natural flavors of the produce to shine.
Below-Ground Treasures: Slow and Steady for Tenderness
In contrast, the firm, starchy vegetables that mature beneath the soil – think potatoes, beets, sunchokes, turnips, and carrots – require a more deliberate approach. These root vegetables benefit from indirect grilling at a moderate temperature for an extended period, typically ranging from 30 to 60 minutes. This gentler cooking method allows their firm cellulose to soften and their starches to cook through slowly, resulting in a tender and satisfying texture. A significant advantage of this indirect heat technique is the opportunity to infuse the vegetables with the complex, nuanced flavors of wood smoke by adding wood chips or chunks to the fire.

The "Caveman" Method: Embracing the Embers for Intense Flavor
Certain vegetables, when subjected to the primal heat of embers, develop a unique smoky character. Eggplants, when charred directly on the coals, acquire a haunting smokiness that is the secret ingredient behind an exceptional baba ghanoush. Bell peppers, similarly ember-roasted, transform into supernaturally sweet and smoky delights. This "caveman" method, directly cooking food on embers, unlocks a depth of flavor that is both rustic and refined.
An A-to-Z Guide to Grilling Summer Vegetables: Maximizing the Season
To fully embrace the vibrant tapestry of summer produce, Raichlen offers an indispensable guide, an alphabetical journey through the grill-ready possibilities:
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Asparagus: Snap off the woody ends. To create manageable portions, pin the stalks together side-by-side with toothpicks, forming "rafts." Brush with sesame oil or olive oil and grill directly over high heat until tender-crisp.
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Broccolini: Toss with chili oil or olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Grill directly over medium-high heat, allowing the ends to char slightly, until tender.
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Corn: Remove the husks and tie them back under the ears to create a natural handle. Brush the corn with melted butter and season with salt and pepper. Grill directly over high heat until the kernels are darkly browned. For a vibrant Mexican twist, slather grilled corn with mayonnaise and a generous dusting of grated cotija cheese.
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Delicata Squash: Slice into ½-inch rings, discarding the seeds. Brush with melted butter and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Grill directly over medium heat until beautifully browned and tender.
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Eggplant: For larger eggplants, cut crosswise into ½-inch-thick steaks. Brush with olive oil and grill directly over high heat until tender and browned. Smaller eggplants can be roasted directly on the embers (caveman style) until their skins are charred. The smoky flesh is perfect for pureeing with garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, and tahini to create an unparalleled baba ghanoush.

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Fennel: Trim off the leafy tops (these can be saved for adding to embers when grilling fish). Cut the bulbs from top to bottom into ¼-inch slices. Brush with olive oil and grill directly until browned and soft. A drizzle of balsamic vinegar enhances its delicate flavor.
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Green Beans: Trim the ends and remove any strings. Toss with olive oil and freshly chopped dill or minced garlic. Grill in a wire mesh basket over high heat, or even more effectively, directly on the embers. Toasted slivered almonds make a delightful finishing touch.
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Hatch Chiles: Cut these mild to fiery New Mexico green chiles in half lengthwise. Stuff with sautéed onions, breadcrumbs, and grated cheese. Grill indirectly over medium-high heat until the chiles are tender and the filling is bubbling. August marks the peak season for these flavorful peppers, with Melissa’s being a trusted source.
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Iceberg Lettuce: Quarter the head of lettuce. Brush the cut faces with oil and sear them directly over a hot fire. Allow to cool slightly before topping with your favorite ranch dressing for a surprisingly delicious grilled salad.
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Jerusalem Artichokes (Sunchokes): Scrub them well and pat dry. Place in a foil pan with butter, salt, pepper, and unpeeled garlic cloves. Grill indirectly over medium-high heat for approximately 45 minutes, until the exteriors are crisp and the interiors are tender. Adding wood chips to the fire during this process will impart a delightful smoky aroma.
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Kale (especially Lacinato Kale): Brush each leaf on both sides with sesame oil and soy sauce. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and grill directly over medium-high heat until browned and crisp on both sides.
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Leeks: Split them lengthwise and wash thoroughly to remove any grit. Brush with olive oil and grill directly over medium heat. A light vinaigrette makes an excellent accompaniment.

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Mushrooms: These are a grilling natural. Stem and wipe clean with a damp cloth. Brush with garlic parsley butter and grill directly over a medium-hot fire, basting with more butter as they cook.
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Napa Cabbage: Cut crosswise into 1-inch thick steaks, securing them with bamboo skewers. Brush with sesame oil, soy sauce, and minced garlic. Grill directly over high heat.
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Okra: A surprising grilling delight. Skewer into rafts, similar to asparagus. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill directly until sizzling and browned. A final flourish of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese elevates this humble vegetable.
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Plantains: Allow them to ripen until their skins turn black. Peel and cut diagonally into ¾-inch thick slices. Brush with melted butter and caramelize on a hot griddle or grill directly.
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Quaresma Peppers (Sweet Italian Peppers): Place these in a grill basket and blister them over a hot fire or directly on the coals. Shishito peppers can be prepared in the same manner.
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Radicchio: Cut into wedges and secure with toothpicks. Brush with olive oil and season with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Grill directly over a hot fire until tender and slightly charred.
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Sweet Potatoes: Grill indirectly over medium-high heat until the skins are crisp and the flesh is soft (test by piercing with a fork). Serve opened with a dollop of butter and a drizzle of maple syrup.

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Tomatoes: Cut ripe tomatoes in half widthwise. Smoke them at a low temperature in your smoker or on your grill. While the tomatoes are smoking, consider adding cucumbers, sweet bell peppers, sweet onions, and a garlic clove or two to the smoker. Once smoked, blend these ingredients with olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper to create the ultimate gazpacho.
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Ube (Purple Yam): Scrub the exterior of the yam and grill it indirectly. Enjoy it much like a baked sweet potato.
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Vidalia Onions: Peel the onions and carefully cut out the stem end in a cone shape. Stuff the cavity with crumbled bacon and barbecue sauce. Smoke-roast (grill indirectly) over medium heat until soft and tender, approximately 40 to 60 minutes.
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Winter Squash: Halve acorn squash and remove the seeds. Place cut-side down on a preheated salt slab and grill indirectly until tender.
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Xoconostle: This Nahuatl term refers to a sour prickly pear. Mexicans traditionally char these over a hot fire and then grind them to create vibrant salsas.
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Yellow Squash: Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Stuff with chorizo or Italian sausage. Grill indirectly over medium-high heat until tender and the stuffing is cooked through.
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Zucchini: Slice lengthwise into ¼-inch thick strips. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and dried mint. Grill directly over high heat and finish with a drizzle of Greek yogurt or tzatziki for a refreshing contrast.

Implications and the Future of Vegetable Grilling
Raichlen’s fervent advocacy for grilling vegetables extends beyond mere culinary exploration. It represents a broader shift in how we perceive barbecue, moving beyond a singular focus on meat to embrace a more holistic and inclusive approach to live-fire cooking. By demonstrating the incredible versatility and profound flavor potential of vegetables on the grill, he is inspiring a new generation of home cooks to explore the vibrant possibilities of plant-based barbecue. This not only caters to a growing demand for plant-forward meals but also elevates vegetables to a status of equal importance on the barbecue plate.
As summer’s peak produce season continues to flourish, Raichlen’s wisdom serves as a powerful reminder that the grill is a boundless arena for culinary creativity. Whether you are a seasoned pitmaster or a curious novice, the techniques and insights shared here offer a gateway to unlocking the extraordinary flavors that summer vegetables have to offer, proving that the true heart of barbecue lies not just in what you cook, but in the passion and innovation you bring to the fire.
Related Reads:
- Plan your next cook with our full recipe collection – weeknight grills, weekend projects, and special-occasion feasts.
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- Looking for more summer grilling inspiration? Check out our Summer Grilling Guide.

