By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer

August 18, 2026

For many, the mere mention of grilling fish conjures images of culinary disaster: sticking to the grates, crumbling into a thousand pieces, or emerging dry and unappetizing. Yet, for seasoned grill masters like Steven Raichlen, the renowned authority on all things barbecue, fish is not only a summer grilling favorite but a canvas for smoky, succulent perfection. In a recent discourse, Raichlen, a five-time James Beard Award winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer, demystifies the art of grilling fish, revealing that the secret lies not in a single magical technique, but in understanding the unique characteristics of each type of fish and matching it with the appropriate grilling method.

"People often ask me what my favorite food is to grill in the summer," Raichlen shares, his voice resonating with decades of experience. "You might be surprised to hear it’s not steak or ribs or pork loin. No, my number one favorite grill food this time of year is fish—especially swordfish. And nowhere does it taste better—or grill better—than at my summer home on Martha’s Vineyard."

This statement, delivered with the confidence of a seasoned chef, belies the common anxieties surrounding piscine grilling. Raichlen acknowledges these fears directly: "Fish on the grill. Four words that strike terror into the hearts of even experienced grillers. For as much as grilling endows fish with incredible smoky succulence, there’s a lot that can go wrong. Will it stick to the grate? Will it fall apart when you turn it? Will the high heat of the fire dry it out?"

The good news, according to Raichlen, is that these challenges are surmountable. "Well, grilling fish is easy, but it isn’t always simple," he concedes. "The secret is choosing the right grilling method for the particular fish you’re cooking." This fundamental principle forms the cornerstone of his comprehensive approach, offering a nuanced strategy that moves beyond a one-size-fits-all mentality.

The Spectrum of Grilling Techniques: Tailoring the Heat to the Catch

Raichlen meticulously outlines several distinct grilling methodologies, each designed to coax the best out of different types of fish. This strategic approach ensures optimal texture, moisture, and flavor, transforming potentially daunting culinary endeavors into predictable triumphs.

Direct Grilling: The Power of the Sear

For firm, meaty fish steaks that possess a robust structure, direct grilling is the method of choice. This technique involves cooking the fish directly over the high heat of the fire, creating a beautiful sear and a flavorful crust.

"Direct grilling is ideal for firm, meaty fish steaks, such as swordfish, tuna, and salmon," Raichlen explains. "These fish have enough structure to stand up to high heat and flipping without falling apart." He emphasizes the importance of preparation: "Start with a hot, clean, well-oiled grill grate. Pat the fish dry and brush it lightly with oil before it goes on the grill." The key to a successful sear, he advises, is patience: "Once the fish hits the grate, leave it alone long enough to develop a good sear. When properly browned, it will release more readily from the grate. Turn it with a thin-bladed spatula and, whenever possible, flip it only once."

Swordfish, a personal favorite of Raichlen’s, exemplifies the success of this technique. Its dense flesh holds up remarkably well to the intense heat, yielding a firm, flaky texture and a distinctively smoky flavor.

Indirect Grilling: The Gentle Embrace of Controlled Heat

When dealing with larger or more delicate whole fish, a gentler approach is required. Indirect grilling transforms the grill into a sophisticated outdoor oven, allowing for even cooking without the risk of scorching.

"Indirect grilling is ideal for whole fish, like snapper or salmon," Raichlen states. "Instead of positioning the fish directly over the fire, you cook it next to the heat with the grill covered. Think of your grill as a smoky outdoor oven." This method is particularly beneficial for fish that require longer cooking times, ensuring they cook through evenly from edge to center. Raichlen recommends seasoning the fish generously, both inside and out, before placing it away from the direct heat. For an added layer of complexity, he suggests introducing wood smoke: "For an extra blast of wood smoke, toss a few wood chunks or chips onto the fire."

Smoking: Embracing the Aroma of Wood Fire

Certain fish, particularly those with a higher natural fat content, are exceptionally well-suited to the transformative power of wood smoke. This technique imbues the fish with a deep, resonant flavor that is difficult to achieve through other cooking methods.

"Few foods take to wood smoke as enthusiastically as oily fish," Raichlen observes. "Salmon, bluefish, and whitefish have enough natural fat to stay moist as they cook, while soaking up all that wonderful smoky flavor." He advocates for a preparatory step to enhance the smoking process: "For the best results, brine or cure the fish first, then let the surface dry before it goes into the smoker." The choice of wood is also crucial, with alder being a classic pairing for salmon, though milder hardwoods like apple and cherry also yield excellent results. The outcome is a dish that can be enjoyed immediately, hot from the smoker, or chilled for later enjoyment.

A prime example of this technique is Raichlen’s "Maple-Cured and Smoked Salmon." This recipe showcases a New England twist, employing a cure of maple sugar, salt, black pepper, and lemon zest, followed by a delicate drizzle of maple syrup. The subsequent smoking process adds another profound layer of flavor to the already rich fish.

Griddling and Plancha Cooking: The Smooth Surface Solution

For the most delicate of fish fillets, where the fear of sticking and falling apart is most acute, specialized surfaces offer a sanctuary. Griddles and planchas provide a solid, unbroken cooking surface that mimics the intense heat of the grill without the peril of open grates.

"For delicate fish fillets—think sole, flounder, or black bass—a griddle or plancha can be your best friend," Raichlen advises. "You get the intense heat and sizzling crust of the grill without the open spaces between the bars for the fish to stick to—or fall through." The technique mirrors direct grilling, emphasizing preheating the surface and lightly oiling it. "Lay on the fish and let it sear undisturbed before turning it with a thin-bladed spatula," he instructs. The benefit is clear: "The broad, solid cooking surface makes this one of the easiest ways to grill fragile fish and still get plenty of live-fire flavor."

Raichlen’s "Grill-Blackened Tuna with Cajun Remoulade" highlights the efficacy of this method. Thick ahi tuna steaks are coated in bold Cajun spices and seared on a screaming-hot plancha, achieving a dramatic blackened crust while maintaining a beautifully rare center.

Grill Baskets: The Protective Cage

For those seeking a more robust form of protection for their fish, a grill basket offers a practical and affordable solution. This versatile tool acts as a mobile enclosure, safeguarding delicate fish from direct contact with the grates.

"A grill basket is cheap insurance for fish that has a tendency to stick, tear, or fall through the grate," Raichlen states. "It’s particularly useful for whole trout and small snapper, as well as delicate fillets like halibut and turbot." The user simply oils the basket, places the fish inside, and clamps it securely. The entire basket is then placed on the grill, and it’s the basket that is turned, not the fish. "That means no wrestling with a spatula and far less chance of leaving half your dinner stuck to the grill grate," he adds. The result is all the desirable char and smoke, with considerably less drama.

Cedar Plank Grilling: The Aromatic Infusion

Planking, a technique that utilizes a soaked cedar plank to cook fish, offers a foolproof method for infusing delicate fillets with a subtle, smoky aroma. The plank itself acts as a barrier between the fish and the direct heat, preventing sticking and promoting even cooking.

"Planking is one of the most foolproof ways to grill fish," Raichlen asserts. "A cedar plank is ideal for fillets like salmon and striped bass, and because the fish never touches the grill grate, sticking and falling apart cease to be problems." He suggests setting up the grill for indirect heat and, for an added flavor dimension, charring one side of the plank before placing the fish on it. As the plank heats, it releases its aromatic oils, perfuming the fish and keeping it wonderfully moist.

Salt Slab Grilling: The Mineral Kiss of the Earth

For a truly unique grilling experience, Raichlen introduces the concept of the salt slab. This large, flat block of Himalayan pink salt transforms the grill into a sizzling, mineral-rich cooking surface that gently seasons the fish as it cooks.

"A salt slab turns your grill into a sizzling, mineral-rich plancha," Raichlen explains. "It’s especially well-suited to delicate whole fish, such as snapper, black bass, and porgie, because the fish cooks on a solid surface instead of directly on the grate." He emphasizes the importance of gradual heating to prevent cracking and then simply placing the fish directly onto the hot slab. The result is a beautiful sear and a subtle, nuanced seasoning that enhances the natural flavors of the fish without overpowering them.

Grilling in Leaves: An Ancient, Aromatic Embrace

Harkening back to ancient culinary traditions, grilling fish wrapped in leaves offers a method that is both primal and remarkably effective, particularly for delicate catches.

"Wrapping fish in leaves is an age-old grilling technique found throughout Asia, Latin America, and the Caribbean," Raichlen notes. "It’s particularly useful for delicate fish: the leaves keep the flesh off the grate, trap moisture, and perfume the fish with an herbaceous smoke as they char over the fire." Banana leaves are a prime example, softening briefly over the grill before being used to encase seasoned fish. The leaves bear the brunt of the fire’s intensity, allowing the fish to steam and smoke gently within their protective embrace. The reward is a perfectly cooked, impossibly moist fish, enveloped in an aromatic cloud upon opening.

Skewering: The Primitive Elegance of the Stick

In its most elemental form, grilling fish can be as simple as a sharpened stick and a well-tended fire. This primitive method, perfect for camping or rustic outdoor cooking, offers direct control over heat and eliminates the possibility of grate-related mishaps.

"Sometimes the simplest grilling equipment is a sharpened stick and a good wood fire," Raichlen observes. "This primitive method is perfect for camping, where fish can be positioned beside the embers and cooked by radiant heat rather than directly over the flames." By threading the fish securely onto a sturdy stick and angling it toward the fire, one can achieve precise control over the cooking process by simply adjusting the fish’s proximity to the embers. The result is a hands-on, elemental connection to the food and the fire.

The Crucial Moment: Knowing When It’s Done

Beyond the technique, understanding the precise moment of doneness is paramount for achieving perfect grilled fish. Raichlen stresses the importance of using an instant-read thermometer, dispelling the myth that guesswork is acceptable.

"There’s a fine line between perfectly cooked fish and fish that’s dry enough to make you reach for the tartar sauce," he warns. "Don’t guess. Use an instant-read thermometer." He provides specific temperature guidelines for different types of fish:

• Whole fish: Insert the probe into the thickest part of the flesh just above the bone.
• Fish steaks: Insert the probe through the side to the center.
• Most fish: Cook to an internal temperature of 140° to 145°F.
• Blue tuna: 100° to 110°F.
• Rare tuna: 120° to 125°F.
• Medium-rare tuna: 130° to 135°F.

He notes that tuna, with its distinct texture and flavor profile, requires a different approach, always aiming for a rosy center regardless of the cooking method.

The Enduring Allure of Fish, Fire, and Summer

Raichlen’s comprehensive guide underscores a fundamental truth: grilling fish does not have to be an intimidating prospect. By understanding the nuances of different fish and matching them with the appropriate grilling technique, any cook can achieve results that are not only successful but truly exceptional.

"Grilling fish doesn’t have to strike fear into the heart of even the most seasoned griller," he concludes. "Once you learn how to match the fish to the fire, the rest gets a whole lot easier." The ultimate reward is a dish that embodies the essence of summer: moist, smoky, succulent, and beautifully browned—a testament to the enduring magic of cooking fish over a live fire.