By Josie Krogh
October 8, 2026
This article is from: Entertaining 2026
Put this flavorful stunner from across the pond at the center of your holiday grazing table.
In the verdant, rolling hills of Devon, England, a story of tradition, meticulous craftsmanship, and an unwavering commitment to quality unfolds. Here, on the Quicke family farm, a cheddar is produced that transcends the common understanding of "vintage." For many, the term simply denotes an old cheese, but at Quicke’s, it signifies something far more profound: a triumph of discerning judgment, honed over generations. This exceptional clothbound cheddar, naturally matured for approximately 24 months, is not merely aged; it is selected from only the finest wheels, destined to become the centerpiece of holiday celebrations and a testament to enduring artisanal values.
The Essence of "Vintage": Beyond the Calendar
The term "vintage" at Quicke’s is a declaration of excellence, a hallmark earned through a rigorous evaluation process that sets their cheddar apart. It’s a philosophy deeply embedded in the farm’s ethos, a testament to the belief that true quality emerges from expertise and intuition, not just the passage of time.
"It’s so much more than age that makes it a vintage," explains Jane Quicke, the 15th-generation farmer and current CEO of Quicke’s. Her words underscore a critical distinction in the world of artisanal cheese. "That’s all to do with the selection grading." This statement is not a dismissal of age—the 24-month maturation period is crucial for flavor development—but rather an elevation of the human element, the skilled hand and palate that discern a truly outstanding wheel from merely a good one.
The journey of a Quicke’s cheddar begins long before it reaches the grading room, rooted in the very soil of Devon. The family’s dedication to producing exceptional milk from grass-grazed cows has been a guiding principle for hundreds of years. This commitment to the source—healthy land, happy cows—lays the foundation for the complex flavors that will eventually define their vintage offerings.
A Chronicle of Craft: Quicke’s Through the Generations
The story of Quicke’s is one intrinsically linked to the land and the unwavering spirit of its custodians. For centuries, the Quicke family has farmed in Devon, their roots stretching back to a time when farming was not just a livelihood but a way of life, dictated by the seasons and the rhythms of nature.
Foundations in Devon: A Deep-Rooted Heritage
The Quicke family’s connection to their land in Newton St Cyres, Devon, dates back over 450 years. This profound heritage means that every decision made on the farm is viewed through the lens of long-term sustainability and the legacy for future generations. While the article mentions "hundreds of years" for milk production, the specific emphasis on cheesemaking as a primary focus gained significant momentum in more recent history, largely under the visionary leadership of Mary Quicke.
Mary Quicke: The Matriarch of Modern Cheesemaking
Mary Quicke, Jane’s mother, stands as one of Britain’s most respected farmhouse cheesemakers, a true pioneer who revitalized and elevated the family’s cheesemaking tradition. Having taken the reins of the dairy in the 1970s, Mary embarked on a mission to produce world-class cheddar, drawing upon traditional methods while embracing innovation. She understood that the quality of the milk was paramount, dedicating herself to improving herd health and pasture management. Her relentless pursuit of perfection, her deep understanding of microbiology, and her tireless advocacy for traditional British farmhouse cheese helped Quicke’s gain international acclaim. Mary’s influence is indelible; she not only saved a dying art form but also inspired a new generation of cheesemakers. She developed the rigorous grading standards that are now synonymous with Quicke’s vintage cheeses, establishing the benchmarks for body, texture, and flavor complexity.
Jane Quicke: Stewarding the Future
Jane Quicke grew up immersed in the world of cheese, learning alongside her mother and observing the intricate dance between land, animal, and craft. Her early life was a practical apprenticeship, where she absorbed the nuances of farming and cheesemaking by osmosis. As the 15th-generation farmer and current CEO, Jane now bears the responsibility of stewarding this rich legacy. She brings a fresh perspective, combining respect for tradition with a keen eye for business and sustainability. Her leadership ensures that the principles established by her ancestors and refined by her mother continue to guide Quicke’s into the future. She actively participates in grading sessions, a direct continuation of the mentorship she received, ensuring the family’s standards remain uncompromised.
The Cheesemaking Journey: From Pasture to Perfection
The creation of Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar is a meticulously choreographed process, a true chronology of craftsmanship:
- Pasture & Herd Management: The journey begins in the lush pastures of Devon, where Quicke’s herd of grass-grazed cows (primarily dairy Friesians and Jerseys, known for their rich milk) graze freely. The quality of the grass, enriched by the mild, damp Devon climate, directly influences the milk’s flavor profile. "Milk matters," Mary Quicke famously states, a simple phrase encapsulating a profound truth that underpins every stage of their operation.
- Milking & Curdling: Fresh, unpasteurized milk is brought to the dairy. Traditional starters are added, and rennet is introduced to coagulate the milk into curds.
- Cheddaring: The curds are cut, stirred, and then stacked and turned repeatedly—a process known as cheddaring. This unique technique expels more whey and develops the characteristic texture of cheddar.
- Salting & Pressing: The cheddared curds are milled into smaller pieces, salted for flavor and preservation, and then pressed into large, round wheels, typically weighing around 27 kg (60 lbs).
- Clothbinding & Maturation: Each wheel is then meticulously wrapped in cheesecloth, which allows the cheese to breathe and develops a natural rind during maturation. The cheeses are moved to temperature and humidity-controlled maturing rooms, where they rest for approximately 24 months. During this period, enzymes break down proteins and fats, developing the cheese’s complex flavor and texture.
- The Grading Process: This is where the "vintage" designation is truly earned. Each cheese undergoes two critical grading assessments:
- First Grading (around 3 months): An early assessment to identify wheels with promising characteristics.
- Second Grading (just before sale, around 24 months): The decisive grading. A skilled team, often including Mary and Jane, uses a cheese iron to extract a core from the center of each wheel. This core is then meticulously examined.
Supporting Data: The Science and Art of Selection
The selection process for Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar is a blend of empirical assessment and sensory artistry. It’s an intricate dance between tangible metrics and the nuanced judgments of experienced palates.
The Non-Negotiable "Body"
When the team extracts a core from the cheese wheel, the first and most crucial assessment is of its "body." Jane Quicke emphasizes, "Even if the flavor is there, [a fantastic] body is the non-negotiable factor." But what constitutes a "fantastic body"?
- Texture and Consistency: The graders gently squeeze the paste between their fingers. They are looking for a firm yet yielding texture, a certain elasticity, and a smooth, consistent paste free from cracks or excessive crumbliness. It should not be overly dry or excessively moist. A perfectly formed body indicates a successful cheesemaking process and optimal maturation conditions, promising a satisfying mouthfeel. This tactile assessment provides immediate feedback on the cheese’s structural integrity and how it has aged.
The Symphony of Flavor Families
Beyond body, flavor is paramount. Mary and Jane Quicke seek a delicate yet robust balance among three distinct flavor families, with one taking precedence in a true vintage cheddar:
- Sharp and Grassy: These are the initial, bright notes, reminiscent of the lush Devon pastures. They speak of the fresh milk and the early stages of fermentation, providing a lively acidity that awakens the palate.
- Savory, Meaty, and Brothy: These are the umami notes, the deep, resonant flavors that develop through prolonged maturation. They evoke richness, often described as having hints of cooked meat, roasted nuts, or even a rich bouillon. These flavors add complexity and a satisfying depth.
- Buttery Caramel: This is the signature, the primary flavor note that distinguishes Quicke’s Vintage Clothbound Cheddar. It’s a sweet, rich, and nutty character, reminiscent of browned butter, toasted sugar, or even a hint of toffee. This flavor develops as the milk sugars break down over time, creating a mellow sweetness that balances the sharper notes.
A truly vintage wheel will express all three families in harmony, but the buttery caramel should sing the loudest, providing a long, lingering, and utterly delightful finish. The interplay of these flavors creates a cheese that is complex, engaging, and profoundly satisfying.
The Power of Terroir and Traditional Methods
The unique characteristics of Quicke’s cheddar are deeply rooted in the concept of terroir—the specific environment in which it is produced.
- Devon Pastures: The mild climate and fertile soils of Devon produce exceptionally rich, diverse pastures. The cows graze on a variety of grasses and wildflowers, which directly influence the flavor of their milk. This biodiverse diet translates into a more complex and nuanced milk, providing a superior raw material for cheesemaking.
- Grass-Grazed Cows: Unlike cows fed primarily on silage or grain, grass-grazed cows produce milk higher in beneficial fatty acids and with a distinct "grassy" or "herbal" flavor profile that carries through to the cheese.
- Clothbinding: This ancient technique is crucial. Unlike vacuum-packed cheeses, clothbinding allows the cheese to breathe during maturation. This controlled airflow facilitates the growth of beneficial molds on the rind, which contribute to the cheese’s unique aroma and flavor development. It also allows for the formation of a natural, edible rind that protects the cheese while allowing it to age gracefully.
These elements, combined with the unpasteurized milk and traditional starter cultures, contribute to a cheese that is alive, evolving, and reflective of its origins. Quicke’s cheeses have consistently garnered critical acclaim and numerous awards over the years, a testament to their unwavering quality and artisanal integrity.
Official Responses: Voices of Vision and Stewardship
The insights from Jane and Mary Quicke offer a rare glimpse into the philosophy that drives Quicke’s, highlighting a deep-seated commitment to quality, heritage, and the future.
Jane Quicke’s Vision: The Oak Tree Analogy
Jane Quicke’s reflection on the responsibility of stewarding a family farm is particularly poignant. She recounts a story of her ancestors planting oak trees on land that could have remained productive fields. "It’s a crop that you’re not going to yield the benefit from in your lifetime," she observes. This anecdote is more than just a family tale; it’s a powerful metaphor for the Quicke philosophy.
For Jane, this story encapsulates a farming and business model that extends far beyond immediate gratification or short-term returns. Decisions are made with an eye on the distant horizon, prioritizing the health of the land and the prosperity of future generations. It’s a philosophy of investment, patience, and profound respect for the earth. This ethos permeates every aspect of Quicke’s operations, from sustainable pasture management to the careful maturation of their cheeses. It’s about nurturing an ecosystem, both agricultural and familial, for the long haul.
Mary Quicke’s Wisdom: "Milk Matters"
Mary Quicke’s simple yet profound statement, "Milk matters," is the bedrock upon which Quicke’s reputation is built. It’s a declaration of fundamental truth in cheesemaking. Her dedication to this principle led her to revolutionize the dairy, focusing on meticulous herd management, optimal nutrition for the cows, and strict hygiene. She understood that even the most skilled cheesemaker cannot transform inferior milk into exceptional cheese. Mary’s enduring presence in the grading sessions, even as her daughter leads the company, underscores her unwavering commitment to the standards she meticulously established decades ago. Her deep knowledge and experienced palate are invaluable in ensuring each batch meets the Quicke’s benchmark. Her approach is a beautiful blend of traditional knowledge passed down through generations and a scientific understanding of dairy farming, making her a true luminary in the field.
Implications: Setting Standards, Savoring Heritage
The meticulous approach taken by Quicke’s has far-reaching implications, impacting not only the discerning consumer but also the broader artisanal cheese industry and the future of sustainable farming.
The Consumer Experience: Unforgettable Flavors
For the consumer, Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar promises an unparalleled sensory experience. It’s a cheese that delivers consistency in excellence, a reliable source of complex, nuanced flavors that elevate any culinary occasion. Placing this "flavorful stunner" at the center of a holiday grazing table transforms it into an instant focal point, inviting conversation and appreciation. Its rich, buttery caramel notes, balanced by savory depth and a hint of grassy sharpness, pair beautifully with a variety of accompaniments. Imagine it alongside crisp apples, sweet pear slices, crunchy artisanal crackers, a dollop of fig jam or quince paste, and perhaps a glass of a robust Cabernet Sauvignon or a sparkling cider. It’s a cheese designed to be savored, debated, and remembered.
Industry Influence: A Benchmark for Artisanal Quality
Quicke’s stands as a beacon for the artisanal cheese industry. In an era often dominated by mass production, their steadfast adherence to traditional methods, their commitment to quality over quantity, and their emphasis on the human element in grading serve as a powerful reminder of what is possible. They demonstrate that preserving heritage and embracing slow food principles can lead to commercial success and widespread recognition. Their process sets a high bar for other cheesemakers, encouraging a focus on terroir, animal welfare, and the development of distinct, characterful cheeses. Quicke’s contributes significantly to the narrative of British farmhouse cheese, ensuring its place on the global culinary stage.
Sustainability and Legacy: Farming for the Future
The "oak tree" philosophy articulated by Jane Quicke extends beyond mere anecdote; it embodies a holistic approach to sustainable agriculture. By making decisions that protect and improve the land for future generations, Quicke’s exemplifies responsible stewardship. This includes practices that enhance soil health, promote biodiversity in pastures, and ensure the welfare of their animals. In a world increasingly concerned with environmental impact and food security, Quicke’s provides a compelling model for how traditional farming can thrive while safeguarding natural resources. Their story is a powerful narrative about the interconnectedness of land, animals, people, and product, ensuring that the legacy of exceptional cheese, and the land that produces it, endures.
In conclusion, Quicke’s Vintage Cheddar is more than just a cheese; it is a meticulously crafted artifact of history, tradition, and an unyielding pursuit of perfection. Born from the rich pastures of Devon and guided by the seasoned judgment of the Quicke family, it embodies a philosophy where age is merely a component, and true vintage status is earned through unparalleled selection. As the holiday season approaches, this exceptional cheddar from across the pond offers not just a taste, but a story—a flavorful stunner that truly belongs at the heart of any festive gathering.
