SAN FRANCISCO – In the evolving landscape of the American spirits industry, few categories have undergone as radical a transformation as vermouth. Once relegated to the dusty back shelves of home bars and used sparingly in Martinis, the fortified wine is experiencing a renaissance driven by a new guard of "culinary-minded" producers. At the forefront of this movement is Veso Aperitifs, a California-based brand that has captured the attention of the nation’s most prestigious bars with a portfolio that reads more like a tasting menu than a liquor list.

The recent launch of Veso’s Fig Leaf Vermouth—a collaboration with acclaimed bartender Nick Amano-Dolan—marks a significant milestone in this shift. With a flavor profile that bridges the gap between tropical indulgence and herbaceous complexity, the product has transitioned from a limited-edition experiment to a potential cornerstone of the brand’s identity.

Main Facts: A New Paradigm for the Aperitif

Veso Aperitifs, led by founder and CEO Chris Beyer, has carved out a niche by rejecting the traditional boundaries of sweet and dry vermouth. Instead, the brand focuses on "savory" and "culinary" profiles, utilizing ingredients rarely seen in the world of fortified wines. Their current lineup includes provocations such as miso sweet vermouth, tomato vermouth, and even an anchovy-infused expression.

The latest addition, the Fig Leaf Vermouth, was developed in partnership with Nick Amano-Dolan during his tenure at San Francisco’s legendary Trick Dog—a bar world-renowned for its conceptual and avant-garde cocktail menus. The product is a 17.5% ABV aperitif that utilizes a Pinot Blanc base, fortified with brandy and infused with a complex array of botanicals including fig leaves, toasted coconut, cacao, and coriander seed.

The industry response has been immediate and enthusiastic. Establishments such as Oddball in New York, Never Say Dive in Cleveland, and Republique in Los Angeles have integrated Veso’s products into their programs, signaling a shift in how bartenders view vermouth: not just as a modifier, but as a primary flavor driver.

Chronology: From Concept to Cult Classic

The journey of the Fig Leaf Vermouth began in 2025, when Chris Beyer approached Nick Amano-Dolan at Trick Dog. The goal was to create a collaborative spirit that reflected the bar’s innovative approach to flavors. When Beyer asked which single ingredient the Trick Dog team was most interested in exploring, Amano-Dolan’s response was immediate: the fig leaf.

The Development Phase (Late 2025 – Early 2026):
The development process was an exercise in balance. Fig leaves are notoriously difficult to work with; while they offer a stunning aroma of coconut and vanilla, they can easily become overly tannic or "swampy" if over-extracted. Amano-Dolan and Beyer spent months refining the infusion process. They discovered that the leaf’s "green" and "herbaceous" qualities were best supported by a backbone of toasted coconut and cacao, which highlighted the natural coumarin found in the fig leaves.

The Production (Spring 2026):
Once the recipe was finalized, Veso moved into production. The process involved a four-week maceration of fresh fig leaves and dried botanicals in high-proof brandy. This potent infusion was then blended with a crisp Pinot Blanc. To provide the necessary structure and bitterness essential to any true vermouth, the mixture was balanced with quassia bark and cinchona, then lightly sweetened with organic cane sugar.

The Release (May 2026):
The Fig Leaf Vermouth was released as a limited-edition run in the spring of 2026. Priced at $42 per bottle, it was marketed primarily to enthusiasts and high-end cocktail bars. However, the "limited" nature of the product was quickly challenged by consumer demand. By July 2026, the buzz surrounding the bottle—fueled by social media and its appearance on prestigious cocktail menus—forced Beyer to re-evaluate the production scale.

Supporting Data: The Anatomy of a Modern Vermouth

To understand why the Fig Leaf Vermouth has resonated so strongly, one must look at the technical composition of the liquid. Unlike mass-produced European vermouths that often rely on caramel coloring and heavy spice profiles (clove, cinnamon, star anise), Veso’s approach is rooted in the "New World" style, which emphasizes the base wine and fresh, identifiable botanicals.

The Botanical Profile

The complexity of the Fig Leaf Vermouth is derived from a specific "flavor triad":

1. The Green Note: Fresh fig leaves provide a verdant, slightly earthy quality.
2. The Tropical Note: Toasted coconut and cacao nibs enhance the fig leaf’s natural lactones, creating a "Palo Santo" or sandalwood-like aroma.
3. The Structural Note: Coriander seed adds a citrusy lift, while quassia and cinchona provide the bitter finish that cleanses the palate.

The Base and Fortification

The choice of Pinot Blanc as the base wine is a departure from the traditional use of Trebbiano or Catarratto. Pinot Blanc offers a rounder mouthfeel and a subtle orchard-fruit acidity that complements the creamy notes of the coconut. The use of brandy for fortification, rather than neutral grain spirit, adds a layer of dried fruit complexity and a smoother integration of alcohol.

Official Responses: The Vision Behind the Bottle

In interviews regarding the success of the collaboration, both Beyer and Amano-Dolan emphasized the versatility of the ingredient.

"I thought [fig leaf] was so great as a flavor because it was incredibly versatile with its coconut and palo santo quality," says Amano-Dolan, who has since transitioned to Bar Snack in New York. "But it also had a herbaceous and very green quality to it." For Amano-Dolan, the goal was to create a vermouth that could move seamlessly between a classic Martini and a tropical, Tiki-adjacent drink.

Chris Beyer, reflecting on the brand’s trajectory, noted that the Fig Leaf Vermouth represents the "Veso philosophy" of pushing boundaries. "It’s a perfect flavor to build a vermouth around," Beyer stated. Regarding the future of the product, Beyer confirmed that the "limited edition" label may soon be a thing of the past. "We plan to produce a five-times bigger batch size for the next year," he said, citing the overwhelming feedback from both the trade and direct-to-consumer channels.

Implications: The Future of Savory Spirits

The success of Veso’s Fig Leaf Vermouth carries several broader implications for the spirits industry and the hospitality sector:

1. The Blurring of Kitchen and Bar

Veso’s use of miso, anchovy, and fig leaf suggests that the "culinary cocktail" trend is moving out of the shaker and into the bottle. As consumers become more adventurous, there is an increasing market for spirits that utilize savory, umami-forward ingredients. This allows home bartenders to create complex, restaurant-quality drinks without needing to perform their own time-consuming infusions.

2. The Rise of the "Sipper" Vermouth

Traditionally, vermouth was a component of a drink. However, Veso is part of a wave of producers encouraging consumers to drink vermouth neat, over ice, or with a simple splash of tonic. By creating products with the depth and balance of a finished cocktail, Veso is positioning vermouth as a standalone aperitif, challenging the dominance of spirits like Aperol or Campari.

3. The "New World" Vermouth Identity

For decades, the "Vermouth di Torino" or "Noilly Prat" styles were the only benchmarks for the category. Veso’s success proves that American producers can define their own regional style—one that is less reliant on secret medieval recipes and more focused on the agricultural bounty of the West Coast.

4. Economic Scalability for Small Brands

Beyer’s decision to quintuple production for the 2027 vintage highlights a successful "drop" model. By starting with a limited-edition collaboration, Veso was able to test the market and build hype before committing to the capital-intensive process of large-scale production. This "beta testing" of flavors may become the standard for craft producers looking to minimize risk.

Featured Recipe: The Bamboo Colada

Created by Nick Amano-Dolan for Trick Dog

This "tropical riff" on the classic low-ABV Bamboo cocktail demonstrates the Fig Leaf Vermouth’s ability to bridge the gap between dry sherry and rich coconut flavors.

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 oz. Veso Fig Leaf Vermouth
• 1 1/2 oz. Pineapple-infused Fino Sherry (Recipe below)
• 1/2 oz. Coconut water
• Tiny pinch of salt (or 2 dashes 10:1 saline solution)

Instructions:
Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass with plenty of ice until well-chilled. Strain into a chilled Nick & Nora glass. No garnish is required, as the aroma of the fig leaf and pineapple provides the sensory experience.

Pineapple-Infused Fino Sherry:
Combine 1 1/2 cups of fresh, coarsely chopped pineapple (including the skin) with one 750 ml bottle of Fino sherry. Infuse in the refrigerator for 24 hours. Strain through a chinois or fine-mesh cloth. Keep refrigerated for up to one month.

About the Author:
Caroline Pardilla is the digital content editor for Imbibe and the author of "Margarita Time." A veteran of the Los Angeles cocktail scene, she has spent over a decade documenting the evolution of American bar culture.