For over a quarter-century, the name Will Studd has been synonymous with the world of artisanal cheese. An esteemed educator, affineur, author, and filmmaker, Studd has dedicated his life not merely to tasting cheese, but to understanding its very essence. His latest endeavor, the documentary series Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, represents the culmination of this lifelong passion – a profound "legacy project" that dives deep into the intricate relationship between cheese, its origins, and the people who craft it.

The series, distributed by Banijay and now streaming globally, embarks on an ambitious journey, traversing the historic cheesemaking landscapes of Europe and exploring the dynamic, evolving artisan cheese movement in the United States. Beyond the immediate sensory experience of flavor, Studd asks fundamental questions that challenge conventional perceptions: Where does this cheese truly come from? What ancient traditions and innovative practices have shaped its character? How do external forces – from stringent regulations and industrialization to market consolidation and shifting consumer demands – impact its authenticity? And, critically, what invaluable cultural heritage is lost when cheese becomes detached from its inherent place and the hands that lovingly create it?

Through a series of compelling interviews and breathtaking visuals, Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place explores complex themes such as the role of raw milk, the elusive concept of terroir, the delicate balance of succession in family dairies, the challenges of scaling production without compromising quality, and the persistent struggle to preserve the unique character of artisanal cheese amidst growing global demand. This article delves into an exclusive interview with Studd, exploring his evolving definition of "taste of place," the surprising discoveries that punctuated his journey, and his unwavering belief in the vibrant future of artisan cheese.

Studd’s Enduring Quest: A Chronology of Curiosity

Will Studd’s journey into the heart of cheese began more than 25 years ago, marked by an insatiable curiosity that extended far beyond the palate. His early career saw him establish himself as a respected affineur, a master who ages and refines cheese, honing his understanding of how time, environment, and microbial action transform a humble curd into a complex culinary masterpiece. This practical immersion was soon complemented by his role as an educator, sharing his vast knowledge through books and, notably, through his groundbreaking television series, Cheese Slices.

Cheese Slices, which aired for years and filmed in 22 countries, became a global phenomenon, introducing millions to the diverse world of cheese and the dedicated individuals behind it. It was through this extensive travel and countless conversations that Studd’s initial questions about cheese deepened. He observed firsthand the pressures exerted on traditional cheesemaking by modern industrial practices and the relentless march of globalization. He witnessed the tension between age-old techniques passed down through generations and the demands of a rapidly changing market.

It was these observations, accumulated over decades, that laid the groundwork for Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place. Studd describes this new series not just as another project, but as a "legacy project" – a comprehensive effort to synthesize his life’s work and articulate why artisan cheese holds such profound value. This documentary is a testament to his evolution from a curious connoisseur to a passionate advocate, using the powerful medium of film to champion the intricate stories and fragile futures embedded within every wheel of cheese. The series moves deliberately, inviting viewers to slow down and truly consider the provenance of what they consume, mirroring Studd’s own extended journey of inquiry.

Defining ‘Taste of Place’: Insights from a Global Pursuit

The central theme of Studd’s documentary, "taste of place," is a concept he has spent a lifetime dissecting. When asked to define it after traveling across myriad cheesemaking regions, Studd offers a nuanced perspective, anchored by a strong conviction regarding raw milk. "I strongly believe that only cheese made from raw milk can claim to reflect a pure and authentic taste of place," he asserts. "Cheese made from unpasteurized milk represents the ultimate expression of the craft of cheesemaking, and offers interesting flavor, diversity, and respect for integrity."

This declaration highlights a core tenet of traditional cheesemaking: the belief that the microbial diversity inherent in raw milk, unique to a specific farm and region, is crucial for developing the complex flavors and aromas that truly embody a place. This concept aligns closely with terroir, a French term that encompasses the environmental factors—soil, climate, topography—and farming practices that influence a food product. For cheese, terroir extends to the pasture, the breed of animal, the local microflora, and the centuries-old techniques.

However, Studd is quick to acknowledge the broader landscape. "I also acknowledge that there are many delicious and interesting artisan cheeses made from pasteurized milk that have credible connections to place of origin." This concession reflects a pragmatic understanding of modern cheesemaking, where pasteurization is often mandated by regulation or chosen for consistency and broader market access. By presenting both perspectives, Studd empowers viewers to engage with the definition themselves. "In Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place, I cover stories on both raw milk and pasteurized cheese and leave it to the viewer to make a call on a definition of ‘taste of place.’"

His journey was also replete with moments that challenged long-held assumptions and revealed unexpected facets of cheesemaking. Filming with Andy Hatch in Wisconsin, Studd discovered that "cow’s breath could be used as an indicator of milk quality" – a remarkable testament to the intimate connection between farmer and animal. In France, Delphine Carles overturned his belief that May was the optimal month for Roquefort production, suggesting January instead. Further travels brought discoveries like the strictly regional variations in Cypriot Halloumi, once defined by specific milk types and sizes, and the revelation of Galotyri in Greece, an ancient shepherd’s cheese possibly representing the world’s oldest surviving spreadable cheese. These anecdotes serve as vivid illustrations of how deeply entwined cheesemaking is with local knowledge, history, and environment.

The American Artisan Cheese Revolution: Growth and Challenges

The documentary dedicates significant attention to the American artisan cheese movement, charting its remarkable trajectory over the last two to three decades. Studd, who has filmed extensively with US cheesemakers for over 25 years, describes the transformation as nothing short of a "revolution."

"Artisan cheese is no longer just the dream of a few alternative counterculture dreamers," Studd observes, noting a profound shift in perception and scale. "Consumer demand for cheese with distinctive flavors, texture and aromas has encouraged a revolution in artisan cheese. There is now a US cheese culture, and it’s no surprise that American artisan cheese is considered world-class, and now winning notable international awards." This sentiment is backed by growing international recognition, with American cheeses frequently taking top honors at prestigious events like the World Cheese Awards.

Filming in the US offered Studd a renewed sense of optimism for a "sustainable future" for artisan cheese. He highlights inspirational examples like Mateo Kehler of Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont, whose state-of-the-art dairy facilities demonstrate how traditional techniques can be applied with modern precision to ensure "interesting flavor." Similarly, Andy Hatch at Uplands Cheese in Wisconsin exemplifies how increased production can be achieved "without compromise to quality or integrity." The series also features insightful interviews with key figures who have shaped the American cheese landscape, including Dr. Catherine Donnelly, an influential academic and author, renowned food writer Ed Behr, and Cathy Strange of Whole Foods, all of whom have challenged the status quo and advocated for change.

Despite the triumphs, Studd identified a common thread among American producers: the "challenge of success." As demand surges, cheesemakers grapple with how to expand operations without losing the fundamental character and diverse flavors that define their original products. This growth brings with it increased financial and operating costs, the complexities of navigating evolving regulations, and the pressure from corporate consolidation. The dilemma of succession – ensuring that family-owned dairies can pass their craft to the next generation – is another pressing concern, mirroring similar struggles faced by small, traditional dairies in France and elsewhere. These challenges underscore the delicate balancing act required to sustain the artisan movement in a competitive global market.

The Power of Film: Storytelling Beyond Taste

Given cheese’s inherently sensory nature, conveying its aroma and flavor through film presents a unique challenge. Yet, Studd firmly believes in the power of the visual medium to communicate something that books, magazines, or even traditional television segments cannot. "Film is about audience reach and numbers," he explains, drawing a stark comparison to his earlier ventures. His Cheese Slices series streamed globally for 25 years, reaching millions, while his cheese books, though well-received, had a limited print run and are now out of print. "If you want to make a difference, film wins!" he declares.

While film cannot replicate the act of tasting, Studd and his team leverage visual storytelling to engage viewers emotionally and intellectually. "One of the great joys of sharing a truly exceptional cheese is that its character speaks for itself," he reflects. "Get it right and there is that special moment when a cheese cracks a smile of pleasure, and eyes light up and sparkle with shared appreciation." Though difficult to capture directly, the documentary aims to take viewers on "a beautiful visual journey" and tell the compelling story behind a cheese’s origin, explaining "what to look out for in terms of flavor." By connecting the viewer to the landscape, the animals, the cheesemakers, and the process, the film creates an emotional resonance that transcends the physical absence of taste.

The making of Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place also refined Studd’s own role as a storyteller. Collaborating with award-winning documentarian Stuart Goodman, Studd learned the nuances of adding depth through meticulous research and cross-checking. "We had many long discussions about what should and should not be included, and I learned a great deal about storytelling from the process," Studd shares. Goodman’s passion for production details, even extending to commissioning a Mozart piano concerto for the soundtrack, underscores the artistic integrity embedded in the series. This dedication ensures that each episode is a richly layered narrative, packed with "interesting yet diverse stories and unusual information," designed to intrigue viewers long after the credits roll. For example, the segment on Camembert Fernier in Normandy delves into the history of Marie Harel and the rebuilding of her statue with American dairy donations after its destruction in World War II – historical nuggets that add unexpected richness to the cheese’s narrative.

Implications for the Future: Tradition, Innovation, and Consumer Choice

The artisans featured in Studd’s film are often custodians of traditions stretching back generations. This raises a critical question: Do today’s cheesemakers have a responsibility to preserve these traditions while simultaneously embracing innovation? Studd believes the two are not mutually exclusive. "There is no doubt that respecting tradition and protecting time-honored cheesemaking techniques from extinction is important," he affirms. However, he also recognizes that "change is not always harmful. Cheese has always evolved in response to circumstance."

He posits that the current artisan cheese revival is, ironically, a direct response to consumer dissatisfaction with the bland, predictable offerings of industrial cheese. Artisan cheesemakers have skillfully adapted traditional techniques, infusing them with creativity to "innovate exciting new cheese with a point of difference." This ability to honor the past while looking to the future is a hallmark of the most memorable cheesemakers Studd encountered. He describes them as possessing a shared "obsession: a cause to support and believe in with like-minded people." Their dedication, skill, patience, and intuition in creating diverse, game-changing cheeses with a true taste of place are "truly extraordinary."

However, not all stories are without their poignant notes. Studd recalls a particularly touching conversation with David Gremmels, the creator of the acclaimed Rogue River Blue. Filmed on the day a large French group, Savencia, took ownership of the Rogue business, Gremmels was locked out of the creamery he had poured his life into. "It was difficult to see David letting go of his dream," Studd reflects, highlighting the harsh realities of consolidation in the artisan world and the questions it raises about legacy.

The documentary also delves into the complex interplay of factors contributing to "taste of place," extending beyond the strict definition of terroir. While terroir begins with "good quality raw milk from healthy animals in a strictly defined region," Studd emphasizes that "a complex and intricate web of factors, including people and culture, influence the type and character of the cheese." He draws a fascinating comparison between Salers Tradition in France and Kirkham’s Lancashire in England to underscore how geography, people, and culture are intrinsically linked to terroir. Furthermore, he provokes thought on the "future implications of clean raw milk devoid of microbes for raw milk cheese, and the growing influence of modern industrial starters," hinting at the evolving challenges to authenticity.

For viewers new to the world of artisan cheese, Studd hopes the documentary instills more than just a desire to eat more of it. "There is a growing consumer awareness of what we eat, how it is made and where it comes from," he notes. By making the series, he aims to help viewers "understand the diverse choice of artisan cheeses available and raise questions about what they choose to eat." This educational imperative is central to his legacy.

Studd’s optimism for the future of artisan cheese remains strong. "There is a great future for artisan cheese as long as makers continue to produce tastier, more interesting cheese with a point of difference," he asserts. He points to France, where "there are now more dedicated cheese shops than McDonald’s," as a powerful testament to the enduring power of consumer choice and appreciation for quality.

The Enduring Legacy of a Cheese Aficionado

As for his own journey, Studd views Cheese: Searching for a Taste of Place as a definitive statement. This series, a "legacy project" entirely self-funded and three years in the making, aimed "to explain why artisan cheese has value and deserves a rightful place on the table." While he admits it would be "great to make another," he expresses contentment if this proves to be his final cinematic endeavor. "I have achieved what I set out to do, and it’s been an incredibly fun ride getting there."

Will Studd’s documentary is more than just a culinary exploration; it’s a vital cultural document. It’s a call to appreciate the intricate dance between nature, human ingenuity, and tradition that culminates in a piece of cheese. It challenges consumers to look beyond the supermarket shelf and consider the stories, struggles, and triumphs embedded in every delicious bite. In a world increasingly homogenized, Studd’s quest for a "taste of place" reminds us of the profound value in diversity, authenticity, and the enduring power of passionate craftsmanship. The series ensures that the conversation about cheese will continue to extend far beyond mere flavor, delving into its very soul.