By Tracey Colley
September 29, 2026
This article is from: Summer 2026

Plus, learn what sets this British competition apart from other international cheese contests.

As this issue finds its way onto US shelves, London is abuzz with the fifth edition of the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition. Far from being just another awards ceremony, this event has quietly but powerfully begun to reshape the global understanding and practice of affinage – the intricate art of maturing cheese – establishing itself as a beacon of innovation and collaboration within the dairy world.

Main Facts: A British Innovation Taking the World by Storm

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition, now in its fifth year, is a unique British initiative that celebrates and pushes the boundaries of cheese maturation. Held annually in London, it gathers an eclectic mix of cheesemongers, cheesemakers, and passionate practitioners who share a singular goal: to transform young, nascent cheese wheels into masterpieces of flavor and texture through meticulous aging.

This year’s competition, unfolding this September, features a select panel of judges tasked with evaluating both the final cheeses and the detailed "Statements of Intent" provided by each competitor. These statements chronicle every decision made during the maturation process, offering a rare glimpse into the creative minds of these affineurs. The core of the competition’s distinctiveness lies in its unparalleled freedom. Competitors are given identical young wheels from some of Britain’s most revered cheesemakers—Quicke’s Cheddar, Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly, Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton, Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod, and White Lake Cheese Rachel—all originating from the very same batch of milk. From this common starting point, the traditional rules largely dissipate. There are no geographical constraints dictating where or how the cheeses must be aged, nor are there prescribed techniques. Instead, entrants are encouraged to embrace pure experimentation, brushing, washing, and aging their charges according to their own instincts and accumulated expertise. This radical, unstructured liberty is precisely what makes the competition so compelling and impactful.

The event is more than a contest; it’s a living laboratory for affinage, fostering a rare synergy between production and maturation. By allowing cheesemongers and cheesemakers to compete on an equal footing, it champions the idea that affinage is a distinct, yet inextricably linked, discipline within the broader cheese ecosystem. The competition serves as a vital platform for skilled and curious individuals who, with the explicit consent of the original makers, are granted carte blanche to explore new frontiers. Freed from the often-restrictive confines of Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) regulations and orthodox maturation paths, competitors delve into the nuanced interplay of humidity, surface treatments, and aging regimes. The result is a profound transformation, where familiar cheeses evolve into deeply personal expressions of both place and process, revealing hitherto undiscovered potential.

Chronology: The Evolution of a Groundbreaking Competition

The Academy of Cheese, founded in 2017, quickly established itself as a leading educational body dedicated to promoting cheese knowledge and professional standards across the industry. Recognizing a crucial gap in the formal acknowledgment of affinage as a distinct craft, the Academy launched the Affineur of the Year competition in 2022. The inaugural event was born from a desire to elevate the role of the affineur, often the unsung hero behind a cheese’s ultimate character, and to encourage innovation in a field deeply rooted in tradition.

H3: From Concept to Global Influence

The initial vision for the competition was ambitious: to create a platform where skill, creativity, and scientific understanding of cheese aging could be showcased without the usual commercial pressures or stylistic limitations. The first edition, while modest in scale, immediately garnered attention for its novel approach. By providing competitors with young cheeses from established British producers and allowing complete freedom in maturation, it demonstrated the vast potential for sensory development beyond the cheesemaker’s initial work. The concept of "Statements of Intent" proved particularly insightful, turning the competition into a valuable research and development exercise, where successful techniques could be documented and shared.

Over its five-year trajectory, the Affineur of the Year competition has steadily grown in stature and influence. What began as a national initiative has evolved into an event with international recognition, drawing admiration from affineurs and cheese professionals worldwide. The number of high-caliber entries has increased each year, reflecting a growing enthusiasm for the craft and a deeper understanding of its transformative power. Each subsequent competition has built upon the previous one, with past winners like Perry Wakeman, a three-time champion, becoming household names within the specialist cheese community. His repeated success, culminating in his cheese ‘Dillon’ entering full production, serves as a powerful testament to the competition’s ability to foster genuine, commercially viable innovation. The event has moved from being an interesting experiment to an essential annual fixture on the global cheese calendar, eagerly anticipated by an ever-widening audience.

Supporting Data: The Mechanics of Maturation and Measurable Impact

The rigorous framework, despite its emphasis on creative freedom, ensures a high standard of competition. Typically, between 15 to 20 competitors are selected each year from a pool of applicants, reflecting a broad spectrum of backgrounds from independent cheesemongers to established dairy professionals. Each competitor receives three wheels of each of the five designated young cheeses, allowing for careful selection and contingency. The "Statements of Intent" are incredibly detailed, requiring entrants to log everything from ambient temperature and humidity fluctuations in their aging environments to the precise frequency and type of surface treatments (e.g., brine washes, rubbing with spirits, applying specific molds or rinds). They document the duration of aging, the type of wraps used (e.g., cloth, natural rind, wax), and any unique experimental techniques employed. This meticulous documentation is crucial, as judges not only assess the sensory attributes of the finished cheese but also the rationale and success of the affineur’s documented journey.

H3: The Transformative Potential of British Base Cheeses

The selection of base cheeses is a deliberate choice, showcasing the diversity and quality of British cheesemaking while offering distinct canvases for affinage.

• Quicke’s Cheddar: A classic clothbound cheddar, known for its robust, savory profile. Affineurs might seek to amplify its nutty notes, introduce crystalline textures, or develop a more complex, aged character beyond its typical maturation.
• Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly: A traditional Welsh Caerphilly, celebrated for its crumbly texture and fresh, lactic acidity. Competitors might explore techniques to soften its texture, introduce bloomy rinds, or enhance its earthy undertones.
• Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton: An iconic English blue, pungent and creamy. Affineurs could experiment with different humidity levels to control blueing, introduce new surface molds, or influence the balance of sweetness and spice.
• Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod: A raw milk, traditional Brie-style cheese. The challenge here often lies in managing its rapid maturation, perhaps aiming for a firmer paste, a different rind development, or a nuanced aromatic profile.
• White Lake Cheese Rachel: A semi-hard goat’s cheese with a natural rind, known for its mild, sweet, and nutty flavor. Affineurs might focus on developing a more pronounced goat character, a different rind texture, or introducing herbaceous notes through washes.

The impact of the competition extends beyond individual accolades. Anecdotal evidence, supported by industry observations, suggests that at least 30% of participating cheesemakers have either refined their standard aging practices or introduced new product lines directly inspired by techniques explored in past competitions. For instance, following the success of certain innovative surface treatments, some cheesemakers have begun experimenting with unique beer or cider washes for their own cheeses, diversifying their offerings and appealing to new consumer segments. The elevation of British artisan cheese on the global stage is undeniable, with the competition highlighting the depth of talent and the potential for innovation within the UK’s dairy landscape.

Official Responses: Voices from the Heart of the Competition

The enthusiasm surrounding the Affineur of the Year competition is palpable, echoed by participants, judges, and the original cheesemakers alike.

H3: Tracey Colley on Vision and Impact

As Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, Tracey Colley is at the heart of the competition’s success. "When we first conceived of this competition, our goal was to shine a spotlight on the often-underappreciated art of affinage," Colley explains. "We wanted to provide a platform where creativity and expertise in maturation could flourish, free from commercial constraints. What we’ve witnessed over these five years has exceeded our wildest expectations. The level of innovation, the sheer courage of the affineurs to experiment, and the incredible trust shown by our cheesemakers in entrusting their young wheels—it’s truly inspiring. This competition isn’t just about finding a winner; it’s about pushing the entire industry forward, fostering collaboration, and ultimately, delivering more exciting, nuanced cheeses to the consumer." Colley emphasizes that the competition perfectly aligns with the Academy’s broader mission of education and professional development, creating a virtuous cycle of learning and innovation.

H3: Josh Windsor: An American Perspective

First-time judge Josh Windsor, a respected affineur from Murray’s Cheese in New York, brings an invaluable international perspective to the panel. "I am absolutely thrilled to be judging at the Affineur of the Year awards for the first time," Windsor states. "As an American affineur, I feel a strong sense of kinship between what the Academy of Cheese has accomplished and the work we do at Murray’s Cheese in New York, where we mature a variety of cheeses from around the world in traditional and novel ways. Affinage is an innovative toolset for both exploring and thinking beyond the traditions and styles of cheese that are available at the counter today. Having admired from afar the creativity and craft that has arisen from previous competitions, it is exciting to now lend a professional eye to this year’s talented and inventive entries." Windsor noted that he is particularly keen to observe how competitors balance radical experimentation with respect for the cheese’s original character, seeking cheeses that tell a compelling story of their journey from vat to perfectly aged wheel.

H3: The Cheesemakers’ Trust: A Foundation of Innovation

The extraordinary trust placed by British cheesemakers in the competitors handling their young cheeses is a cornerstone of the competition’s success. Mary Quicke MBE, from Quicke’s Cheddar, whose clothbound cheddar is a perennial favorite base cheese, reflects on this unique partnership. "Entrusting our young cheeses to another affineur is a significant leap of faith," she admits. "Our cheeses are our children, and we nurture them with great care. But the Academy of Cheese competition has proven to be an incredibly rewarding venture. We’ve seen our cheeses transformed in ways we never imagined, revealing new depths of flavor and character. It’s a fantastic learning experience for us, too, often inspiring new ideas for our own aging rooms. It truly highlights the collaborative spirit that makes British cheesemaking so special." This sentiment is echoed by other participating cheesemakers, who view the competition not as a risk, but as an opportunity for mutual growth and discovery.

Implications: Shaping the Future of Cheese

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition is far more than an annual spectacle; its implications ripple through the entire global cheese industry, promising a more innovative, diverse, and exciting future for cheese lovers.

H3: Redefining Global Affinage

By demonstrating that even traditional cheeses can be radically reinterpreted through innovative aging, the competition is actively redefining the global perception of affinage. It encourages affineurs worldwide to think beyond established norms and to view cheese maturation as a dynamic, artistic, and scientific endeavor. This could lead to the emergence of similar, freedom-based competitions in other cheese-producing nations, fostering a global network of experimentation and knowledge exchange. The emphasis on the "Statement of Intent" also promotes a more scientific and analytical approach to affinage, turning empirical experimentation into documented, reproducible techniques.

H3: Elevating British Cheese Identity

For British cheese, the competition serves as a powerful testament to its versatility and potential for innovation. While historically celebrated for its PDO cheeses, this event showcases that British cheesemaking is not confined to tradition but is a vibrant, evolving landscape. It reinforces the UK’s position as a hub for artisan food innovation, attracting international attention and potentially opening new export markets for unique, affineur-aged British cheeses. The success of cheeses like ‘Dillon’ entering production underlines the commercial viability of these creative approaches, moving them from competition showpieces to consumer delights.

H3: Enriching the Consumer Experience

Ultimately, the greatest beneficiary of this innovation is the consumer. The competition drives the development of new flavor profiles, textures, and aromatic experiences, broadening the sensory palette available at cheese counters. Imagine encountering a Quicke’s Cheddar with unexpected umami notes and a delicate bloomy rind, or a Stilton with a surprisingly delicate, sweet finish. These are the possibilities that the Affineur of the Year competition unlocks, offering a continually evolving array of nuanced and exciting cheeses. It educates consumers about the profound impact of affinage, encouraging a deeper appreciation for the complex journey a cheese undertakes.

H3: A Model for Industry Collaboration

The unique collaborative model, where cheesemakers entrust their young products to affineurs, sets a powerful precedent for other food industries. It demonstrates the immense value of open innovation, mutual trust, and shared risk-taking in driving progress. This spirit of partnership, rather than competition, fosters a healthier, more dynamic ecosystem where every part of the supply chain benefits from collective creativity. It highlights that the journey of food from farm to plate is often a relay race, with each participant adding their unique expertise to create something truly exceptional.

H3: Spotlight Cheese: Dillon – A Triumph of Transformation

Perry Wakeman, a name now synonymous with exceptional affinage, won his third Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year title with his extraordinary wheel, ‘Dillon.’ This triumph was so profound that ‘Dillon’ has since entered commercial production, allowing cheese lovers everywhere to experience Wakeman’s artistry. Made from young clothbound Quicke’s Cheddar, ‘Dillon’ undergoes a meticulous maturation process of 10 to 12 months. Wakeman’s signature technique involves perforating the rind with a spiked roller, creating 244 precise holes. This ingenious method expertly manages moisture loss and controls surface mold development, contributing significantly to the cheese’s unique character.

The flavor profile of ‘Dillon’ is deeply savory and exquisitely layered, presenting notes of toasted butter, roasted nuts, a profound mushroomy umami, and a subtle, intriguing barbecue finish. Its texture is equally compelling: chewy, slightly elastic, and exhibiting a flinty break reminiscent of a young Parmesan, yet retaining the characteristic qualities of a cheddar. The result is a hybrid masterpiece that challenges expectations and delights the palate, standing as a living embodiment of the competition’s transformative power.

The Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year competition continues to be a vibrant testament to human ingenuity and passion within the world of cheese. As the fifth edition concludes, it leaves behind a legacy of innovation, collaboration, and an enriched understanding of what cheese can truly become.

Discover more about this year’s competition: Meet the affineurs and cheesemakers, explore the cheeses they entered, and see who took home the prizes. Plus, dive into the judging panel, standout flavors, and the stories behind the winners and finalists at academyofcheese.org/awards/affineur-of-the-year/.

Tracey Colley

Tracey Colley has worked in the cheese industry for over 20 years; as an award-winning deli owner, a top tier Account Manager and Events Organizer for fine food & cheese Distributor Harvey & Brockless, and currently as Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese. Tracey has judged at the World Cheese Awards for many years as well as the International Cheese & Dairy Awards and Artisan Cheese Awards.