The Rise of the Tomahawk: A Grilling Giant’s Reign and How to Conquer It

By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer

Once a relic of the past, a tool of Native American warriors, the "tomahawk" has undergone a dramatic transformation in the culinary landscape. Today, it evokes not the battlefield, but the opulent dining table and the sizzling grill. The beef tomahawk, a colossal bone-in ribeye steak, has ascended to the zenith of steakhouse prestige, a veritable status symbol that even adorns itself with gold leaf in some audacious establishments. While its price tag reflects its grandeur, for those seeking an unforgettable culinary experience, mastering the art of grilling this magnificent cut is a worthy endeavor.

The Evolution of a Steakhouse Icon

In the relatively recent past, when I first embarked on my journey chronicling the world of barbecue, the word "tomahawk" conjured only images of its ancestral weapon. The concept of a beef tomahawk as a culinary delicacy was virtually nonexistent. Fast forward to the present, and this magisterial cut of beef has become an ubiquitous presence. From the most exclusive steakhouses to the aisles of your local supermarket, the tomahawk beckons, its sheer presence a testament to its newfound popularity. This behemoth of beef has cemented its position as the new steak status symbol, a testament to a shifting perception of what constitutes an exceptional dining experience.

The escalating cost of premium beef certainly positions the tomahawk as a significant indulgence. However, for those special occasions that demand an extraordinary culinary centerpiece, the allure of sizzling a tomahawk on your own grill is undeniable. It represents a commitment to an unforgettable meal, a departure from the ordinary, and a celebration of the finest ingredients.

Demystifying the "Tomahawk"

So, what precisely defines a beef tomahawk? At its core, it is a bone-in ribeye steak, distinguished by the presence of the entire rib bone. In the precise language of butchers, this cut is identified by its IMPS/NAMP Number: 1103B. Often, this formidable rib bone is "frenched," a meticulous process where the meat is carefully scraped away, leaving a clean, polished bone that enhances its dramatic presentation. Imagine a steak of truly gargantuan proportions, typically measuring two to three inches in thickness, accompanied by a rib bone that extends an impressive five to eight inches. For the dedicated carnivore and the inquisitive meat enthusiast, it’s important to note that tomahawks are expertly carved from ribs 6 through 12 of a steer’s ribcage. This strategic placement contributes to the steak’s exceptional marbling and rich flavor profile.

The Grilling Conundrum of the Tomahawk

The sheer size and thickness of a tomahawk steak present a unique set of challenges for the aspiring griller. Attempting to cook it using the same direct grilling methods employed for a standard rib steak or rib-eye can lead to a frustrating outcome: a beautifully seared exterior that belies a raw, unpleasantly cold center. Conversely, employing a low-and-slow smoking approach, akin to preparing a brisket, risks sacrificing the coveted, crispy seared crust that is integral to the tomahawk experience.

The key to unlocking the full potential of this magnificent cut lies in a specialized cooking technique: the reverse sear. This method, adopted from the world of true barbecue, allows for precise control over both internal temperature and exterior texture, ensuring a perfectly cooked tomahawk every time.

The Art of the Reverse Sear: A Step-by-Step Guide

The reverse sear technique for a beef tomahawk is a testament to patience and precision, yielding unparalleled results. The process begins with a low-and-slow cooking phase, mirroring the foundational principles of traditional barbecue.

Step 1: The Low and Slow Foundation
Begin by preheating your grill to a low temperature, ideally between 225°F and 275°F (107°C to 135°C). If you’re aiming for a smoky infusion, this is the stage to introduce wood chunks or chips – hickory, mesquite, or oak are excellent choices to impart a nuanced barbecue flavor. Place the tomahawk steak on the cooler side of the grill, or in a zone with indirect heat. The goal here is to gently bring the internal temperature of the steak up to approximately 100°F (38°C). This phase can take anywhere from 45 minutes to over an hour, depending on the thickness of your steak and the consistency of your grill’s temperature. The key is to monitor the internal temperature diligently with a reliable meat thermometer.

Step 2: The Crucial Rest
Once the steak reaches the target internal temperature of 100°F, remove it from the grill. Place it on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. This allows for air circulation and prevents the steak from steaming. Allow the steak to rest for at least 15-20 minutes. This resting period is critical for several reasons. It allows the muscle fibers to relax, ensuring a more tender result. More importantly, it prepares the surface of the steak for the intense heat of the searing phase.

Step 3: The High-Heat Sear
While the steak is resting, dramatically increase the heat of your grill. Aim for a scorching high temperature, ideally 500°F (260°C) or higher. This intense heat is essential for creating that desirable, deeply caramelized crust. Once the grill is blazing hot, carefully place the rested tomahawk back onto the direct heat. Sear each side for approximately 1-2 minutes, or until a beautiful, mahogany-brown crust has formed. Watch closely to avoid burning. The internal temperature will continue to rise during this searing phase.

Step 4: The Final Temperature Check
For a medium-rare tomahawk, you’re aiming for an internal temperature of 125°F to 130°F (52°C to 54°C). For medium, target 135°F to 140°F (57°C to 60°C). Remove the steak from the grill once it reaches your desired doneness.

Step 5: The Final Rest and Carving
Allow the tomahawk to rest for another 10-15 minutes after searing. This final rest is crucial for the juices to redistribute throughout the meat, ensuring maximum tenderness and flavor. Once rested, carve the steak away from the bone and slice against the grain.

The Advantages of Reverse Searing

The reverse searing technique offers a multitude of benefits that make it the ideal approach for cooking a beef tomahawk:

• Even Cooking: The low-and-slow initial cooking phase ensures that the steak cooks evenly from edge to edge. This eliminates the "bullseye" effect, where the outer layers are well-done while the center remains a raw, vibrant red.
• Forgiving Timing: The reverse sear provides a significant advantage in terms of timing. The majority of the cooking is completed during the initial low-and-slow phase, which is far more forgiving than direct grilling a thick steak. You can remove the steak from the grill at the target internal temperature and hold it for a period before searing, making it easier to coordinate with side dishes and guest arrivals.
• Enhanced Flavor Infusion: The low-and-slow stage is the perfect opportunity to infuse the steak with the complex, smoky flavors of barbecue. Adding wood chunks or chips to the fire during this phase imparts a subtle yet distinct smoky essence that elevates the tomahawk beyond a simple grilled steak. This integration of barbecue principles is always a significant "win" in my book.

Alternative Grilling Strategies for the Tomahawk

While reverse searing stands as the gold standard, two other ingenious methods can be employed to grill a beef tomahawk, particularly if your grill is equipped with certain features:

1. The Adjustable Grate Method (Santa Maria or KUDU Style Grills):
For those fortunate enough to possess a grill with a raisable and lowerable grate, such as a Santa Maria-style grill or a KUDU, a different approach to grilling the tomahawk is possible. Position the grate at a high elevation, approximately 18 inches above the coals. This allows for a slow, gentle direct grilling process. Place the tomahawk on the grate and grill slowly, turning it every few minutes to ensure even cooking. As the steak approaches your desired doneness, lower the grate closer to the fire for the final few minutes. This allows you to achieve a beautiful, crusty sear without overcooking the interior. The total cooking time using this method typically ranges from 20 to 30 minutes.

2. The "Sear and Slide" Method (Large Grills):
If you have a generously sized grill, you can implement a two-zone cooking setup. Establish one side of the grill over medium-high heat and the other side over low heat. Begin by placing the tomahawk on the hotter side, allowing the surface to sizzle and begin to brown. Once a desirable sear is achieved on that side, slide the steak to the cooler zone to finish cooking gently. You can then periodically slide it back to the hot zone for brief searing and back to the cool zone to manage the internal temperature. The Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet company aptly refers to this technique as the "sear and slide" method. Similar to the adjustable grate method, the cooking time for this approach is generally between 20 and 30 minutes.

The Essential Accompaniments: Cowboy Butter and Beyond

While the tomahawk steak is undeniably the star of the show, the right accompaniments can elevate the entire dining experience. A classic pairing, and one that perfectly complements the richness of the tomahawk, is "Cowboy Butter." This flavorful compound butter, infused with herbs, garlic, and a touch of heat, melts beautifully over the hot steak, adding an extra layer of decadence.

Cowboy Butter Ingredients:

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives
• 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary, finely chopped
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Cowboy Butter Instructions:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the softened butter, minced garlic, parsley, chives, rosemary, red pepper flakes, and smoked paprika.
2. Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are well incorporated.
3. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your preference.
4. Spoon the mixture onto a piece of plastic wrap or parchment paper. Roll it into a log, twisting the ends to secure. Refrigerate until firm, at least 30 minutes, or until ready to serve. Slice and place a pat of the cowboy butter on top of each slice of cooked tomahawk steak.

Beyond Cowboy Butter, consider pairing your tomahawk with hearty grilled vegetables, a robust red wine, or a classic potato gratin. The goal is to create a harmonious ensemble that celebrates the exceptional quality of the steak.

A Culinary Journey Worth Embarking

The beef tomahawk, once a culinary obscurity, has firmly established itself as a symbol of indulgence and a testament to the evolution of our appreciation for exceptional cuts of meat. While its price point may signal a splurge, the experience of preparing and savoring this magnificent steak is, for many, an unparalleled culinary adventure. By understanding its unique characteristics and employing the right cooking techniques, particularly the revered reverse sear, you can transform your backyard grill into a stage for a truly memorable feast. The tomahawk is more than just a steak; it’s an event, a celebration, and a delicious exploration of the art of barbecue.