NORTH CHARLESTON, SC & SEATTLE, WA & NEW YORK, NY – The American cheese landscape is undergoing a vibrant renaissance, moving far beyond the mass-produced blocks of yesteryear to embrace a rich tapestry of artisanal creations. At the heart of this transformation are passionate cheesemongers – the dedicated purveyors who not only sell cheese but also serve as educators, curators, and advocates for the craft. From intimate neighborhood shops to bustling urban markets, these specialists are redefining how consumers interact with and appreciate domestic dairy.

This report delves into the philosophies and practices of three distinct American cheesemongers: Counter Cheesemongers in North Charleston, South Carolina; Street Cheese in Seattle, Washington; and Saxelby Cheesemongers in New York. Their journeys, while unique, converge on a shared commitment to quality, community, and the profound stories embedded in every wheel and wedge.

The Art of Curation and Sustainable Growth

The journey of an artisanal cheese from farm to table is often complex, requiring careful handling, discerning selection, and a deep understanding of its provenance. For many cheesemongers, success isn’t just about sales; it’s about fostering a sustainable ecosystem that supports both producers and discerning consumers.

Counter Cheesemongers: A Model of Deliberate Expansion

In North Charleston, South Carolina, Eric Casella and Nora Granger of Counter Cheesemongers have meticulously crafted a business model rooted in specificity and intentional growth. Their unwavering commitment to selling only domestic cheese sets them apart, a strategic choice that has become their recipe for success. "Our business model is very specific because it’s very small, and we’ve intentionally kept it that way," Casella explains.

Their path has been one of measured evolution, adapting to market demands without sacrificing their core values. They began with a wholesale operation, supplying local restaurants and eateries with meticulously selected American cheeses. This foundation allowed them to build relationships within the industry and understand the regional palate. The next natural step was to engage directly with consumers, leading them to farmers’ markets, which Granger describes as "always the way to directly connect with consumers." This direct interaction provided invaluable feedback and built a loyal customer base eager for high-quality, locally sourced products.

Demonstrating remarkable foresight, Counter Cheesemongers transitioned to an e-commerce platform shortly before the global shifts brought on by COVID-19. This early adoption proved critical, allowing them to maintain continuity and reach customers even as traditional retail faced unprecedented challenges. The evolving culinary landscape of Charleston, which has seen a surge in trendy food establishments, also influenced their strategy. Observing the rapid rise and fall of many new ventures, Casella and Granger consciously pursued a path of stability. "A lot of bars and restaurants in Charleston pop up quickly, but they’re only around for a short amount of time," Casella notes. "We wanted a sustainable business, trying to stay as lean and focused as possible."

This philosophy culminated in the transformation of their office’s front room into a "tiny shop," a testament to their cautious approach to brick-and-mortar retail. This intimate space allows them to maintain a personal connection with customers while keeping overhead low.

What truly fuels Casella and Granger’s passion is the human element of the American cheese scene. "The people," Granger emphatically states. "All of the cheesemakers we work with are just so wonderful and fantastic and care so much about what they do." This connection goes beyond mere transactions. They frequently undertake journeys to visit their producers, like their trips to Looking Glass Creamery, where they personally pick up delicate cheeses such as Green River Blue, a soft-ripened Gorgonzola-style that is too fragile for shipping. These visits are not just about logistics; they are opportunities to deepen relationships, share stories, and reinforce the community spirit that underpins the artisanal food world. "We get to hang out with the crew and chat for a bit. Our dog gets to run around the field and bark at cows. It’s a beautiful place—an idyllic farm situation," Granger recounts. This personal engagement ensures they are not just selling products but sharing narratives, fostering an appreciation for the labor and love behind each cheese.

Bridging the Gap: Education as a Cornerstone

Beyond the transaction, many cheesemongers see their role as vital educators, bridging the knowledge gap between the complex world of artisanal production and the curious consumer. They aim to demystify cheese, making it accessible and understandable, thereby cultivating a deeper appreciation for its origins and makers.

Street Cheese: Demystifying Artisanal Delights in Seattle

In the vibrant culinary scene of Seattle, Washington, Courtney Johnson and Tailor Kowis of Street Cheese have made education the bedrock of their enterprise. They firmly believe that a well-informed consumer is a more engaged and appreciative one. "There’s such a disconnect between the consumer and where our food comes from," Kowis observes. "We want to be the bridge for people to understand why it’s important to buy a specific cheese from a specific producer."

This educational imperative is driven by a desire to empower consumers to make conscious choices. Kowis posits that greater knowledge directly correlates with a willingness to invest in quality: "I think the more you know, the more you’re willing to spend so somebody can stay in business and keep making these cheeses that have been around for so long." This philosophy underscores the economic sustainability of artisanal production, where every purchase supports a dedicated craftsperson.

A core tenet of Street Cheese’s mission is to dismantle the perception that cheese is an exclusive, "fancy" food. "Something we’ve always enjoyed doing as cheesemongers is reminding people that cheese is not a fancy food. Cheese is for everybody, and it’s actually a very humble food," Kowis emphasizes. "It comes from hardworking people, animals, and the land. The more you know about that, the easier it is to buy artisanal cheeses for every day." This message is so central to their identity that Kowis crafted a large sign for their shop entrance boldly proclaiming, "Cheese is not fancy," which, as Johnson notes, "inspires a lot of conversations."

Their educational efforts extend beyond casual counter discussions. Street Cheese regularly hosts structured events, including popular "Cheese 101" classes and workshops on cheese pairing. These events cater to a growing public interest in the fundamentals of cheese appreciation. Johnson’s own transformative experience at The Cheese School of San Francisco, while preparing for her Certified Cheese Professional exam, inspired her to create a similar hub for learning and community. "That was such a magical experience, and we wanted to create a place where we can offer training and education for the others—especially for folks who work at businesses where cheese education isn’t a priority," she explains. This vision aims to foster a stronger, more knowledgeable cheese community, both for consumers and industry professionals.

The Pacific Northwest offers a fertile ground for artisanal cheese, boasting a robust regional scene. "We have so many cheesemakers. There are almost 50 creameries in Washington, and it’s very hard and very expensive to make cheese here," Kowis proudly states. This reality makes the dedication of these cheesemakers even more remarkable, a testament to their commitment to their craft. "It’s cool that’s what people are choosing to do with their life and dedicate their time to. It’s a craft."

Johnson also tackles a persistent misconception: the notion that "American cheeses are not that good." This stereotype, more prevalent in her previous grocery store experiences but still encountered, is one she delights in dispelling. "We have so many wonderful American cheeses. It’s nice to be like, ‘Actually, you should taste this cheese. It’s delicious.’" She highlights local "heavy hitters" such as the herbed rose butter from Cherry Valley Dairy, which has garnered more awards than any other flavored butter in the country, and Oregon’s Rogue River Blue, famously crowned the best cheese in the world in 2019. These examples serve as powerful rebuttals to any lingering doubts about the quality and innovation within the American cheese scene, reinforcing the message that excellence is found "in every other corner of this country where cheese is being made."

Cultivating Connection: A Point of View in Every Wedge

In the bustling metropolis of New York, Saxelby Cheesemongers stands as a beacon for American artisanal cheese, guided by a philosophy of strong opinion, meticulous care, and deep personal connection. Jill Tardiff, a key figure at Saxelby, embodies this approach, believing that a cheesemonger’s passion and perspective are as vital as the cheese itself.

Saxelby Cheesemongers: Authenticity and Advocacy in New York

For Jill Tardiff, the American cheese scene is not just an industry; it’s a community brimming with talent and resilience. Her profound admiration for this community is palpable, particularly when reflecting on the American Cheese Society’s Annual Conference. "It’s the overwhelming enthusiasm, depth of skill and creativity, and resilience of the cheesemakers," she says, emphasizing the "heartfelt connection" she feels. This annual gathering serves as a powerful reminder of the collective spirit and innovative drive that define American artisanal cheesemaking.

Tardiff’s "recipe for success" at Saxelby Cheesemongers is refreshingly direct: "Have an opinion and a point of view." In a world saturated with choices, she believes customers seek guidance and expertise. When a customer approaches the counter, they are looking for more than just a product; they are seeking information, reassurance, and a narrative. "The customer comes to you fresh, and they’re looking for you to tell them how you’re caring for cheeses. The way you sell the cheese provides the customer with valuable information, and they need to understand your point of view." This approach transforms the transaction into an educational exchange, building trust and loyalty.

Tardiff recalls a particularly insightful customer comment: "I come back because I know you care about your cheeses. I see them. I see the way you care." This feedback encapsulates the essence of Saxelby’s philosophy – that visible dedication to the product fosters an unparalleled level of customer confidence. Success, for Tardiff, is a collaborative and ongoing endeavor. "We’re honing our skills, our talents, and our ideas together. I listen intently to see what both parties need to be satisfied so I’m able to sell something customers are excited to bring home. We’re proud that we know these cheeses and their cheesemakers, but none of it guarantees success." The continuous refinement of skills and a deep understanding of customer needs are paramount.

The physical presentation of the cheese is also a critical component of this "point of view." "Having a cheese case that has an opinion and a point of view—I feel strongly about that," Tardiff asserts. "It can be the personality of the owner or the manager, but the case has to reflect who you are. You don’t have that much time to talk with customers." The curated selection, the way cheeses are displayed, and the overall aesthetic of the case communicate volumes about the shop’s values and expertise, acting as a silent but powerful advocate for the products.

For Tardiff, the most joyful aspect of running a cheese shop is the profound engagement with the people behind the products. Working alongside Anne Saxelby, the founder, and her business partner Benoit Breal, has provided her with an unparalleled opportunity to connect with American producers, as well as those in France and England. "It’s given me an opportunity to have an intimate relationship with the people who have dedicated their lives to dairy, to the communities they live in, and to the animals they care for—that’s really a wonderful thing." This deep, personal connection to the source is not just a professional perk; it is the very soul of the artisanal cheese business, enriching the experience for both the monger and the consumer.

The Broader Implications: A Maturing American Palate

The narratives of Counter Cheesemongers, Street Cheese, and Saxelby Cheesemongers collectively paint a vivid picture of a dynamic and maturing American cheese scene. These businesses, each with its unique approach, are pivotal in driving this evolution.

Their dedication to specific niches—be it domestic-only offerings, rigorous customer education, or a strongly opinionated curatorial style—underscores a broader trend: the increasing sophistication of the American palate and the demand for authenticity and transparency in food. The cautious, sustainable growth model of Counter Cheesemongers demonstrates how small businesses can thrive by staying true to their vision and adapting strategically. Their deep personal connections with cheesemakers highlight the importance of the human element and the supply chain’s integrity.

Street Cheese’s unwavering commitment to education addresses a fundamental need in the market. By demystifying artisanal cheese and challenging the perception of it as an exclusive luxury, they are expanding its appeal and fostering a more knowledgeable consumer base. Their efforts to highlight the "heavy hitters" of the American cheese world, like Rogue River Blue, are crucial in overcoming long-held biases against domestic products, proving that American cheesemakers stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the world’s best.

Saxelby Cheesemongers, through Jill Tardiff’s insights, emphasizes the critical role of the cheesemonger as an informed guide and passionate advocate. The idea that a cheese case should have a "point of view" speaks to the curatorial artistry involved and the limited time available to convey complex information. It also highlights the trust consumers place in their cheesemongers, seeking not just a product but an experience and a story. The joy Tardiff finds in intimately connecting with producers underscores the symbiotic relationship between cheesemongers and cheesemakers, a bond essential for the vitality of the entire industry.

Conclusion: A Future Forged in Flavor and Dedication

These stories are more than just business profiles; they are testaments to the passion, resilience, and vision that are elevating American cheese to new heights. Eric Casella, Nora Granger, Courtney Johnson, Tailor Kowis, and Jill Tardiff, along with countless other dedicated cheesemongers, are not merely selling cheese; they are cultivating a culture. They are fostering community, challenging perceptions, and ensuring that the craft of American cheesemaking receives the recognition and appreciation it deserves.

As consumers increasingly seek out products with provenance, quality, and a story, the role of the cheesemonger becomes ever more critical. They are the frontline ambassadors, the bridge between the farm and the table, and the passionate voices ensuring that every wedge of artisanal American cheese is celebrated for the remarkable journey it represents. The future of American cheese is bright, thanks to these tireless champions of the curd.