In a compelling ode to the lesser-known treasures of Greek gastronomy, acclaimed chef and restaurateur Jonathan Barthelmess, alongside Olympus Dining head chef Ozge Kalvo, is lifting the veil on a cherished family recipe: Marathopita, the aromatic fennel and leek pie. Far from the ubiquitous spanakopita found in bakeries worldwide, this Cretan specialty champions the vibrancy of seasonal greens and the liquid gold of Grecian olive oil, embodying a return to authentic, regional flavours that define the very soul of Greek cooking.
Barthelmess, known for establishing benchmark Greek dining experiences like The Apollo in Sydney and Greca in Brisbane, is now steering his culinary vision towards a deeper appreciation for seasonality with his new venture, Olympus. It is within this new philosophy that the Marathopita finds its perfect home, a dish that he passionately declares a "hero of Greek cuisine." This unveiling not only shares a delicious recipe but also marks a significant moment in the ongoing narrative of Greek food’s global resurgence, highlighting its diversity, tradition, and profound connection to the land.
Main Facts: An Authentic Taste of Greece
The spotlight is firmly on Marathopita, a traditional Cretan pie that, while less globally recognised than its spinach-laden cousin, spanakopita, holds a distinguished place in Greek culinary heritage. This particular rendition, a collaboration between Jonathan Barthelmess and Ozge Kalvo, focuses on the delicate, anise-like flavour of fennel and the subtle sweetness of leeks, woven into a delicate fillo pastry. It’s a dish that speaks volumes about the island of Crete, famous for its rich culinary traditions, abundant wild greens, and exceptional olive oil production.
Barthelmess’s commitment to sharing this recipe stems from a deep-seated belief in the cultural importance of Greek pies, or ‘pites’. He states unequivocally, "For me, pies – or pites – are a hero of Greek cuisine and belong on every Greek menu." This sentiment underscores a broader mission to elevate the perception of Greek food beyond its most popular exports, showcasing the depth and variety found within its regional specialties. Marathopita, with its celebration of specific seasonal ingredients and its humble origins, perfectly encapsulates this vision. It’s a dish that is "traditional, earthy and simple," as Barthelmess describes, truly "all about celebrating the vegetables and greens of the season."
The emphasis on Grecian olive oil is not merely a flavour preference but a cultural statement. Olive oil is the cornerstone of the Mediterranean diet and particularly crucial in Cretan cuisine, where it’s used generously, not just for cooking but as a finishing element, lending its fruity, peppery notes to every dish. The Marathopita recipe is a testament to this philosophy, with olive oil playing a central role in both the pastry and the filling, contributing to its rich texture and distinctive taste. This recipe, therefore, serves as an educational bridge, inviting diners and home cooks alike to explore the nuances of authentic Greek flavours and ingredients.
The Culinary Genesis: A Chronology of Barthelmess’ Greek Odyssey
Jonathan Barthelmess’s journey to this moment, sharing a traditional Cretan pie, is a testament to a career defined by passion, authenticity, and an evolving culinary philosophy. His trajectory has been marked by a consistent dedication to Greek cuisine, continually pushing its boundaries while honouring its roots.
From Sydney’s Apollo to Brisbane’s Greca: A Foundation of Hearty Greek Flavours
Barthelmess first made a significant impact on the Australian dining scene with The Apollo in Sydney. Opened in collaboration with Sam Christie, The Apollo quickly became a darling of critics and diners alike, celebrated for its vibrant, contemporary take on Greek food. The menu at The Apollo was characterised by its robust, often hearty dishes, designed for sharing and evoking the convivial spirit of Greek tavernas. Signature dishes like baked saganaki with honey and oregano, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, and chargrilled octopus solidified Barthelmess’s reputation for delivering sophisticated yet approachable Greek fare. The success of The Apollo led to the expansion of his culinary footprint with Greca in Brisbane, which continued this tradition of offering generous, flavourful Greek dishes, establishing a loyal following in Queensland. These early ventures showcased Barthelmess’s ability to translate the essence of Greek hospitality and flavour profiles into a modern, upscale dining experience, setting a high bar for Greek restaurants in Australia.
The Pursuit of Authenticity: Travels and the Birth of Olympus
Despite the resounding success of The Apollo and Greca, Barthelmess harboured a deeper ambition: to delve into the more nuanced and regional aspects of Greek cuisine, moving beyond the familiar and exploring the seasonal bounty that truly defines the country’s diverse culinary landscape. This ambition led him on extensive travels throughout Greece, an odyssey that profoundly shaped his current approach. He recounts, "I’ve invested a lot of time travelling through Greece, experiencing how the locals make their pies, from Athens to the coast and into the mountains." These journeys were not merely gastronomic tours but deep immersions into the cultural fabric of Greek cooking, observing, learning, and absorbing the time-honoured techniques and philosophies of local cooks.
This immersive experience culminated in the conceptualisation of Olympus, Barthelmess’s latest venture. Olympus represents a significant evolution in his culinary philosophy, shifting from the hearty, celebratory fare of his previous restaurants to a more refined, seasonally-driven approach. The focus at Olympus is on showcasing the freshest produce and allowing the natural flavours of ingredients to shine, mirroring the simplicity and elegance found in traditional Greek home cooking. It’s a restaurant that seeks to capture the essence of what Barthelmess discovered in his travels: a cuisine deeply connected to the land, its seasons, and its regional specificities. The Marathopita, with its celebration of seasonal fennel and leek, is a perfect embodiment of this refined, authentic vision, representing a mature culmination of Barthelmess’s enduring Greek odyssey.
Supporting Data: Unpacking the Marathopita Recipe
The Marathopita recipe, as presented by Jonathan Barthelmess and Ozge Kalvo, is a masterclass in simplicity and flavour, built on the quality of its individual components. Its genius lies in the harmonious interplay of fresh ingredients and a perfectly crafted pastry.
The Philosophy Behind the Filling: Celebrating Seasonal Greens
The heart of the Marathopita lies in its vibrant, aromatic filling, a carefully balanced medley of seasonal greens. The selection of ingredients speaks to the dish’s Cretan origins, where wild greens (‘horta’) are staples, celebrated for their flavour and nutritional value.
- Leeks (white part only): Thinly sliced, leeks provide a gentle, oniony sweetness and a tender texture when cooked. They form the base of the aromatic profile, mellowing beautifully during the sautéing process.
- Spring Onions: Offering a sharper, fresher onion note than leeks, spring onions contribute a crucial layer of piquancy that brightens the overall flavour of the filling.
- English Spinach: Used for both its stems and leaves, spinach adds body and a subtle earthy flavour. The stems, thinly sliced, provide a slight crunch and structure, while the coarsely chopped leaves wilt down to create a soft, verdant base.
- Fennel Fronds: This is where the Marathopita truly distinguishes itself. The finely chopped fennel fronds infuse the pie with its characteristic anise-like aroma and delicate, herbaceous flavour. Barthelmess even suggests extra fronds for serving, underscoring their importance to the dish’s identity. This ingredient is the star, giving the pie its name (maratho means fennel in Greek).
- Parsley and Mint: These fresh herbs are essential for adding layers of freshness and aromatic complexity. Coarsely chopped, they provide a lift to the cooked greens, ensuring the filling remains bright and invigorating, rather than heavy. The combination of mint and parsley is classic in Greek savoury pies, contributing a fragrant counterpoint to the vegetables.
- Extra-virgin olive oil: Not just a cooking fat, olive oil is a flavour enhancer. Two tablespoons are used to gently sauté the vegetables, imparting its fruity, sometimes peppery, essence into the filling. This is a non-negotiable ingredient in authentic Greek cooking, chosen for its quality and taste.
The method for the filling is straightforward: gentle sautéing of the leeks, spring onions, and spinach stems until softened, followed by the addition of spinach leaves and fennel fronds until fragrant. Finally, the fresh herbs are stirred in briefly. This careful, sequential cooking ensures that each ingredient contributes its best, creating a filling that is both complex and harmonious, seasoned simply to taste.
Crafting the Perfect Fillo: A Labour of Love
While store-bought fillo pastry is widely available, Barthelmess’s recipe calls for homemade fillo, a decision that speaks volumes about the pursuit of authentic texture and flavour. Homemade fillo, though requiring more effort, yields a far superior result – a pastry that is exceptionally crisp, delicate, and flavourful, truly integral to the pie’s character.
- Plain Flour: The foundation of the pastry, providing structure and elasticity.
- Extra-virgin olive oil: Three teaspoons are incorporated directly into the dough, contributing to its pliability and adding a subtle richness. This is a departure from many fillo recipes that rely solely on water and flour, showcasing a traditional Greek method.
- Raki (or substitute): A key ingredient that might surprise some, raki (a potent Cretan pomace brandy, similar to grappa or tsipouro) adds a distinct flavour and is believed to contribute to the pastry’s crispness and elasticity. If unavailable, Barthelmess suggests Tsipouro or even vodka as a suitable substitute, as their high alcohol content evaporates during cooking, leaving behind a subtle flavour and aiding in a tender, flaky texture.
- Fine Sea Salt: Essential for seasoning the dough itself, enhancing the overall flavour of the pastry.
- Room Temperature Water: Crucial for achieving the correct dough consistency and activating the gluten evenly during kneading.
The process of making the fillo involves combining all ingredients and kneading until smooth – a five-minute commitment that develops the gluten, resulting in a soft, pliable dough. The dough is then rested for an hour, allowing the gluten to relax, which is vital for easy rolling and achieving the desired thinness. This resting period is a non-negotiable step in achieving a truly exceptional homemade fillo.
Step-by-Step: The Art of Assembling and Frying
The assembly and cooking of the Marathopita are where skill and patience converge to transform simple ingredients into a golden, crispy delight.
- Dough Division and Rolling: The rested dough is divided into 12 equal portions, each rolled out to an 18cm round. A 16cm ring mould (or inverted bowl) is used as a guide to trim the rounds, ensuring uniformity. This precision is important for consistent cooking and presentation. The rounds are layered with baking paper to prevent drying out, a common pitfall with delicate fillo.
- Filling and Sealing: One-sixth of the cooled filling (about 60gm) is spread onto the centre of a fillo round, leaving a 1cm border. Another fillo round is placed on top, and the edges are lightly brushed with water before being pressed firmly with a fork to create a secure seal. This step is critical to prevent the filling from escaping during frying and to create those characteristic crimped edges. This process is repeated for the remaining portions, yielding six individual pies.
- Frying to Perfection: The pies are shallow-fried in 1cm of olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. The cooking is done in batches, ensuring each pie has enough space to cook evenly and achieve a beautiful golden-brown crispness on both sides (1-2 minutes per side). Shallow-frying is preferred over deep-frying as it allows for better control over the browning and results in a less greasy product while still delivering that coveted crunch.
- Keeping Warm: As each batch is cooked, the pies are drained on paper towels to remove excess oil, then transferred to prepared baking trays and kept warm in a preheated 100°C oven. This ensures that all pies are served at the optimal temperature and maintain their crispness.
The Final Flourish: Serving Suggestions
The presentation of Marathopita is as simple and elegant as the dish itself. A final scatter of toasted sesame seeds adds a nutty crunch and visual appeal, while extra fennel fronds reinforce the pie’s signature aroma. Crucially, lemon wedges are served on the side, allowing diners to add a squeeze of fresh acidity, which Barthelmess notes is a vital element for balancing the richness and freshness of the pie. This final touch elevates the flavours, making each bite bright and invigorating.
Official Responses: Barthelmess on the Soul of Greek Pies
Jonathan Barthelmess’s words are not merely instructional; they are an impassioned declaration of his culinary philosophy and a deep reverence for Greek gastronomic traditions. His quotes offer invaluable insight into the cultural significance of pies in Greece and the core principles guiding his new restaurant, Olympus.
A Chef’s Personal Connection to Pites
Barthelmess’s assertion that "For me, pies – or pites – are a hero of Greek cuisine and belong on every Greek menu," is more than a casual observation. It’s a testament to the profound role these humble dishes play in Greek life and identity. Unlike the more celebrated main courses, pites often embody the resourcefulness, seasonality, and communal spirit of Greek cooking. They are versatile, served as appetisers, light meals, or even desserts, and are deeply woven into the fabric of everyday meals and celebrations.
He further elaborates on their intrinsic qualities: "They are traditional, earthy and simple, and are really all about celebrating the vegetables and greens of the season." This statement highlights several critical aspects. "Traditional" speaks to their long history and cultural continuity, passed down through generations. "Earthy" evokes the connection to the land, the source of the fresh, often wild, ingredients. "Simple" refers to the straightforward preparation that belies their complex flavours, a hallmark of true Mediterranean cooking. Most importantly, the focus on "celebrating the vegetables and greens of the season" underscores a sustainable and intuitive approach to food that prioritises fresh, local produce, a philosophy that is both ancient and remarkably modern. This perspective positions pites not just as food, but as expressions of a living culture and a sustainable way of eating.
The Olympus Vision: Seasonality and Sophistication
The culinary philosophy behind Olympus Dining, shared by Barthelmess and head chef Ozge Kalvo, is deeply informed by this reverence for Greek pies and the broader commitment to authentic, seasonal cooking. Barthelmess’s extensive travels through Greece were not just about collecting recipes, but about understanding the very essence of how locals interact with their food. "I’ve invested a lot of time travelling through Greece, experiencing how the locals make their pies, from Athens to the coast and into the mountains," he reflects. This firsthand experience provided him with a nuanced appreciation for regional variations and the subtle art of pie-making.
This meticulous research led him to a concise, yet profound, definition of what constitutes a truly perfect pie: "For me, it comes down to the perfect crisp pastry, a balance of acidity and the light, freshness of the vegetable." This tripartite criterion reveals a sophisticated understanding of flavour and texture. The "perfect crisp pastry" is the foundation, providing a satisfying crunch and a textural counterpoint to the soft filling. The "balance of acidity" is crucial for cutting through richness, enlivening the palate, and enhancing the natural flavours of the vegetables. Finally, the "light, freshness of the vegetable" ensures that the dish remains vibrant and invigorating, rather than heavy or cloying. Together, these elements encapsulate the refined, seasonal approach that Barthelmess and Kalvo are bringing to Olympus, demonstrating a commitment to culinary excellence rooted in tradition and respect for ingredients.
Implications and the Future of Greek Cuisine
The sharing of the Marathopita recipe by Jonathan Barthelmess and Ozge Kalvo carries significant implications, not only for the appreciation of Greek cuisine but also for broader culinary trends. It signifies a movement towards deeper authenticity, regional exploration, and a renewed focus on the inherent virtues of the Mediterranean diet.
Redefining Greek Gastronomy: Beyond Spanakopita
The prominence given to Marathopita, a dish less known internationally than spanakopita, serves as a powerful statement about the vast and diverse landscape of Greek gastronomy. For too long, the global perception of Greek food has been limited to a handful of popular dishes – moussaka, souvlaki, Greek salad, and indeed, spanakopita. While these are beloved for good reason, they represent only a fraction of Greece’s rich culinary heritage. By championing Marathopita, Barthelmess is actively participating in a movement to educate and inspire diners to look beyond the familiar.
This initiative helps to showcase the incredible regional variations that exist across Greece’s mainland and islands. Cretan cuisine, in particular, is distinct, known for its emphasis on wild greens, liberal use of olive oil, and unique cheeses. Marathopita acts as an ambassador for this regional identity, inviting exploration into other Cretan specialties and encouraging a more nuanced understanding of Greek food as a whole. It challenges the monolithic view of Greek cuisine, celebrating its intricate tapestry of local ingredients, traditions, and flavours.
The Mediterranean Diet and Culinary Trends
The Marathopita recipe, with its focus on fresh vegetables, aromatic herbs, and extra-virgin olive oil, perfectly aligns with the principles of the Mediterranean diet, widely regarded as one of the healthiest eating patterns in the world. This diet emphasizes plant-based foods, healthy fats, and moderate consumption of animal products. By highlighting a vegetable-centric pie, Barthelmess reinforces the intrinsic health benefits and deliciousness of this way of eating.
In an era where consumers are increasingly conscious of their health, sustainability, and the provenance of their food, dishes like Marathopita resonate deeply. Its seasonal nature speaks to a growing demand for fresh, locally sourced ingredients and a reduction in food waste. The simplicity and earthiness Barthelmess describes also taps into a broader culinary trend towards "comfort food" that is both nourishing and deeply satisfying, moving away from overly complex or artificial preparations. This recipe is not just a tasty dish; it’s a blueprint for a more wholesome and mindful approach to eating.
Empowering Home Cooks with Authentic Flavours
Perhaps one of the most significant implications of chefs sharing such recipes is the empowerment of home cooks. By demystifying the process of making traditional dishes like Marathopita, Barthelmess and Kalvo are making authentic Greek flavours accessible to a wider audience. While homemade fillo might seem daunting, the detailed instructions provide a clear pathway for those willing to embark on a culinary adventure.
This accessibility fosters a deeper appreciation for the craft of cooking and the cultural stories embedded within food. Home cooks can experiment with fresh, seasonal ingredients, understand the nuances of Greek olive oil, and even learn about traditional Greek spirits like raki. The ability to recreate a dish like Marathopita at home transforms it from a restaurant experience into a personal culinary journey, connecting individuals to a rich gastronomic heritage. It encourages experimentation, builds confidence in the kitchen, and ultimately, enriches the dining experience, whether enjoyed in a restaurant or at one’s own table.
In conclusion, Jonathan Barthelmess’s decision to share his Marathopita recipe is far more than just offering a delicious dish. It’s a strategic move to broaden the narrative of Greek cuisine, celebrate regional authenticity, champion seasonality, and empower a new generation of cooks and diners to explore the true depth and vibrancy of Greek gastronomy. It signals a bright future where traditional dishes, once confined to family kitchens or specific regions, find their rightful place on the global culinary stage.
