Beyond the Fryer: Mastering the Art of Grilled Potatoes with Steven Raichlen
By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer
For too long, the humble potato has been relegated to the sidelines of the barbecue world, primarily known for its golden-fried alter ego. But across the vast culinary landscape of "Planet Barbecue," the potato undergoes a remarkable transformation when kissed by live fire. The intense heat and smoky essence of the grill elevate this starchy staple to new heights, offering a depth of flavor and textural complexity that simply cannot be replicated. However, achieving this grilled perfection requires more than simply tossing spuds onto the grates. Potatoes, with their dense structure, are notoriously slow to soften and can easily scorch if not handled with care, leading to frustratingly undercooked centers. This article, an in-depth exploration from the esteemed Barbecue Bible, demystifies the art of grilling potatoes, offering expert techniques and insights to ensure every potato dish is a resounding success.
The Foundation of Flavor: Understanding Potato Physiology and Grill Dynamics
The key to unlocking the full potential of grilled potatoes lies in understanding their inherent characteristics and how they interact with the heat of the grill. Unlike more delicate vegetables, potatoes possess a significant amount of starch and water, which require sustained heat to break down and become tender. This density, however, presents a challenge: the exterior can char and even burn before the interior reaches a palatable temperature.
This is where Steven Raichlen’s philosophy of "matching the technique to the potato" becomes paramount. There isn’t a single, one-size-fits-all approach. Instead, a nuanced understanding of different potato varieties and their cooking behaviors, combined with the strategic application of grilling methods, is essential. From the robust russet to the delicate fingerling, each potato type benefits from a tailored approach to ensure optimal results.
Decoding the Techniques: A Spectrum of Grilled Potato Possibilities
Raichlen, a seasoned pitmaster and educator, breaks down the seemingly complex world of grilled potatoes into manageable, actionable techniques. His guidance moves beyond basic grilling, delving into methods that control heat, manage moisture, and maximize flavor infusion.
Indirect Grilling: The Gentle Embrace of Controlled Heat
For whole potatoes – think russets, Yukon Golds, and fingerlings – the method of choice is indirect grilling. This technique involves arranging the potatoes on the side of the grill that doesn’t have direct heat. This allows the potatoes to cook through slowly and evenly, much like an oven, while preventing the exterior from scorching. To further enhance the flavor, Raichlen suggests adding wood chunks or chips to the fire. This imparts a subtle yet distinct layer of wood smoke, a hallmark of true barbecue, creating a flavorful "patina" on the potatoes.
A particularly elegant application of indirect grilling is the hasselback potato. This visually stunning preparation involves slicing a potato crosswise, almost all the way through, creating thin "leaves" that fan out like an accordion when grilled. The nooks and crannies created by these slices are perfect for holding butter, herbs, and seasonings, leading to an incredibly flavorful and beautifully presented dish.
Parboiling and Searing: The Two-Step Approach for Perfect Texture
When aiming for potato wedges, planks, or larger chunks, a two-step approach involving parboiling and then searing is often the most effective. Parboiling, or partially boiling the potatoes before they hit the grill, provides a crucial head start for the dense interior. This pre-cooking step ensures that by the time the exterior achieves a desirable char, the inside is already tender.

The duration of parboiling is critical. Baby potatoes typically require 6 to 8 minutes, while larger chunks or wedges may need a few minutes longer. The goal is not to cook them until they are mushy, but rather to achieve a state where they are "just barely tender when pierced with a knife or skewer." This slight resistance indicates that the potatoes have enough structural integrity to withstand the direct heat of the grill without falling apart.
Crucially, after parboiling, it’s imperative to drain and thoroughly dry the potatoes. Raichlen emphasizes, "Wet potatoes steam; dry potatoes sizzle." This simple yet vital step ensures that the potatoes will achieve a beautiful sear and crisp exterior, rather than becoming steamy and flabby. Once dry, toss them with good quality extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), salt, pepper, and any desired seasonings or rubs – Steven’s Carolina Pit Powder Rub is a prime example – before introducing them to the heat.
Direct Grilling: The Bold Kiss of Intense Heat
For smaller potato pieces like wedges and slices, direct grilling offers a quicker route to deliciousness. Skewering parboiled fingerling potatoes transforms them into appealing kebabs, allowing for even cooking and easy handling over direct heat.
Another effective direct grilling method involves using a foil pan. This is ideal for fingerling potatoes and potato chunks. Arrange them in an aluminum foil pan alongside whole garlic cloves (skin on for aromatic infusion), butter or oil, salt, pepper, and a few sprigs of fresh rosemary. Grilling over medium-high heat, with frequent stirring, will yield sizzling, browned, and tender potatoes.
Hobo Packs: The Ultimate in Simplicity and Flavor Trapping
The classic hobo pack style, where potatoes are sliced and wrapped in foil with butter, onions, and seasonings, remains a foolproof and forgiving method for grilling potatoes. The foil packet traps steam and seasonings, promoting even cooking and preventing scorching. While this method excels at tenderness, it can sometimes sacrifice the crispy edges achieved through direct grilling. For those who desire a bit more char, Raichlen suggests opening the packet near the end of the cooking time or finishing the potatoes briefly over direct heat.
Caveman Style: Embracing the Primal Heat
For the adventurous griller, the caveman style offers a raw and elemental approach. Wrap potatoes tightly in foil and nestle them directly onto the embers of a dying fire. Turning them often with tongs ensures even cooking. This method imparts a unique smoky flavor and a satisfyingly rustic texture.
On the Griddle: A Crispy Canvas for Creativity
The flat-top griddle opens up a world of possibilities for potato preparation. It’s particularly well-suited for smashed potatoes. After being cooked until tender (often via indirect grilling), these potatoes are gently smashed, then seared on the griddle to achieve delightfully crispy edges and a creamy interior. Raichlen’s griddled papas bravas recipe is a testament to the exciting flavor profiles achievable on this versatile cooking surface.
The Quintessential Grilled Potato: What to Look For
Regardless of the chosen method, the hallmark of a perfectly grilled potato is its internal texture and external appearance. A knife or skewer should slide into the center with minimal resistance, indicating that the dense interior has softened beautifully. Visually, the potatoes should exhibit a pleasing browning, with hints of char for added complexity. The cooking time will vary significantly based on the size of the potato pieces, the heat of the grill, and whether the potatoes were parboiled. Therefore, using visual cues and the skewer test are far more reliable than adhering to strict timeframes.

Recipes to Ignite Your Grilling Passion
To further illustrate these techniques, The Barbecue Bible offers inspiring recipes:
Smashed Potatoes: A Two-Step Masterpiece
This recipe exemplifies the power of a well-executed two-step approach. Potatoes are first indirectly grilled to achieve perfect tenderness. Then, they are smashed and seared on a hot griddle, resulting in an irresistible combination of crackling crisp edges and a creamy, yielding center. This dish is an ideal accompaniment to grilled rib-eye steaks, showcasing the potato’s ability to stand proudly alongside even the most robust cuts of meat.
Frequently Asked Questions: Addressing Common Grilling Conundrums
The journey to grilled potato mastery often involves navigating common challenges. The Barbecue Bible addresses these with clarity and practical advice:
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Do you have to parboil potatoes before grilling? Not always. Whole potatoes can be cooked effectively using indirect grilling, foil packets, or caveman style. However, for wedges, planks, or larger chunks destined for direct heat, parboiling is highly recommended to ensure even cooking.
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How long should you parboil potatoes before grilling? For baby potatoes, aim for 6-8 minutes. Larger pieces may require slightly longer. The key is to achieve a "barely tender" state, allowing them to hold their shape on the grill.
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How long do potatoes take on the grill? Timing is variable. Parboiled wedges finished over direct heat might take 8-15 minutes. Foil packets or pans can take 20-30 minutes. Whole potatoes cooked indirectly or in embers can require 45 minutes or more. Always rely on the skewer test for doneness.
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How do you make grilled potatoes crispy? Parboil, drain, and thoroughly dry the potatoes. Toss with oil and seasonings, then finish over direct heat, on a griddle, or in a foil pan, turning frequently. Ensure they are dry before grilling; steam leads to softness, while sizzle leads to crispness.
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Why are my grilled potatoes still hard inside? This typically indicates that the potato pieces were too large, the grill temperature was too high, or they needed a head start from parboiling. Next time, cut pieces smaller, parboil, or cook on a cooler part of the grill to allow more time for the interior to soften.

The Enduring Appeal of Grilled Potatoes
Mastering the art of grilling potatoes opens up a universe of culinary possibilities. By understanding the science behind their cooking and embracing the diverse techniques available, any home cook can elevate this humble vegetable into a star of the barbecue spread. Whether served as a rustic side dish, a sophisticated appetizer, or a flavorful accompaniment to a perfectly grilled steak, grilled potatoes offer a delicious and satisfying experience that goes far beyond their fried counterpart. As Steven Raichlen consistently demonstrates, with the right approach, the grill transforms the ordinary into the extraordinary, and the potato is no exception.
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