Perth, Western Australia – When the culinary architects behind two of Perth’s most cherished Italian dining establishments, Il Lido and Canteen Pizza, embark on a new venture, the city’s gourmands and oenophiles sit up and take notice. The recent unveiling of Il Santo, an osteria nestled in the heart of Claremont, has not only met but, by many accounts, surpassed the elevated expectations set by its esteemed predecessors. This sophisticated new entrant is a testament to the enduring vision and meticulous execution of a team that has consistently redefined contemporary Italian dining in Western Australia.

Main Facts

Il Santo, which commenced operations in May 2026, occupies the former Nolita site on Claremont’s bustling thoroughfare, transforming it into a beacon of urban Italian sophistication. Far from being a mere replication of its coastal kin, Il Santo carves out its own distinct identity, offering a more metropolitan and intimate experience. The name itself, "Il Santo," is a clever double entendre, not referring to a saintly figure or a local street, but rather drawing inspiration from the Italian phrase "santo bevitore" – the "holy drinker." This evocative term, famously explored in Joseph Roth’s poignant novel, hints at a deeper narrative of salvation, societal reflection, and the profound, sometimes transformative, power of exceptional libations.

At the helm of Il Santo’s kitchen is the Veneto-born Executive Chef Nicola Lunardi, whose compact yet profoundly flavourful menu is a masterclass in "Italo hits" delivered with booming, straight-shooting deliciousness. The dining experience is complemented by a meticulously curated "Aus-talian" wine list and a creative cocktail program, designed to elevate the act of drinking into an almost spiritual encounter. The front-of-house operations are expertly managed by Group Operations Manager Sally Lovell and Senior Waitstaff Melanie Watts, whose professional, knowledgeable, and genuinely cheerful demeanour ensures a seamless and memorable visit. Il Santo is more than just a restaurant; it is a meticulously crafted culinary and social statement, further solidifying the group’s indelible mark on Perth’s vibrant dining landscape.

Chronology: The Evolution of a Culinary Dynasty

The journey to Il Santo is a story rooted in a deep understanding of Italian culinary traditions, a keen eye for modern sensibilities, and an unwavering commitment to quality. It begins with Il Lido Italian Canteen in Cottesloe, a beloved institution that first opened its doors and quickly became synonymous with relaxed, high-quality Italian dining by the sea. Known for its vibrant atmosphere, impeccable service, and a menu that effortlessly blended classic Italian techniques with fresh, local produce, Il Lido established the foundational reputation for excellence that the group now enjoys. Its success laid the groundwork, proving that Perth diners craved authentic Italian experiences delivered with contemporary flair.

Building on this triumph, the team expanded its footprint with Canteen Pizza, initially also located in Cottesloe before its strategic relocation to leafy Applecross. Canteen Pizza quickly garnered a loyal following for its exceptional wood-fired pizzas, a testament to the group’s dedication to mastering specific aspects of Italian cuisine. The move to Applecross allowed Canteen Pizza to cultivate a distinct neighbourhood vibe, further demonstrating the group’s ability to adapt its winning formula to diverse locales and demographics. Both Il Lido and Canteen Pizza, while distinct in their offerings, shared a common thread: an unwavering commitment to quality ingredients, expert preparation, and an inviting, unpretentious atmosphere.

The genesis of Il Santo stemmed from a desire to explore a different facet of Italian dining – one that moved beyond the sun-drenched coastal cheer of Cottesloe and the family-friendly warmth of Applecross. The vision was to create an unapologetically urban proposition, an osteria that would resonate with the sophisticated pulse of Claremont. The decision to take over the former Nolita site was a strategic one, recognizing the potential of the location to house a more intimate, elegant, and late-night-oriented establishment. The conceptualisation phase for Il Santo involved a meticulous planning process, drawing on years of experience and a clear understanding of market gaps. The team aimed to craft an environment where the "holy drinker" concept could truly come alive, blending exceptional food with an equally compelling beverage program in a setting designed for convivial yet refined social interaction. From the initial design sketches by Studio Gram to the final menu development by Chef Nicola Lunardi, every element was carefully considered to ensure Il Santo would not just open its doors, but make a definitive statement in Perth’s competitive culinary scene. Its grand opening in May 2026 was the culmination of this ambitious journey, marking a significant new chapter for the esteemed hospitality group.

Supporting Data: A Symphony of Senses and Flavours

Il Santo’s appeal lies in its holistic approach to dining, where every element, from the meticulously designed interiors to the artfully composed dishes and the expertly curated service, contributes to a cohesive and memorable experience.

Architectural Elegance and Ambiance:
The transformation of the former Nolita site into Il Santo is a triumph of design, spearheaded by the renowned Studio Gram. The space itself is described as "svelte" and "grissini-like," suggesting a long, elegant, and perhaps narrow layout that fosters intimacy. The ground level immediately captivates with its "gilded, dimly lit" aesthetic, evoking the shimmering allure of a "Crunchie bar" – a playful yet apt metaphor for its rich, golden tones and textured surfaces. This luxurious base is strikingly contrasted by a "vivid splash of green" in the mezzanine, a bold design choice that prompts a whimsical comparison to "peppermint Aeros," adding an unexpected layer of freshness and modernity to the otherwise opulent setting. The thoughtful arrangement of tables, primarily for two, hugging the walls, enhances the sense of intimacy and allows diners to immerse themselves in the sophisticated atmosphere. Complementing the visual grandeur is a carefully selected soundtrack of "jazzy house music," creating a chic, understated backdrop that encourages conversation and sets a decidedly urban, contemporary mood. This is not the rustic charm of a Tuscan farmhouse; it is the polished allure of a modern Italian city osteria.

The Culinary Craftsmanship of Chef Nicola Lunardi:
Executive Chef Nicola Lunardi, a native of Italy’s Veneto region, brings a profound understanding of Italian culinary principles to Il Santo, but with a refined, contemporary edge. His menu is compact, eschewing sprawling choices for focused, impactful dishes that are both familiar and subtly inventive. The phrase "booming, straight-shooting deliciousness" perfectly encapsulates his approach: robust flavours delivered with precision and clarity.

• Carpaccio: A prime example is the textbook carpaccio, a delicate assembly that showcases Lunardi’s mastery of classic preparations. Thin, almost papery slices of raw veal girello form the tender base, elevated by the creamy piquancy of creamed horseradish and the nutty, saline notes of shavings of Piave Vecchio cheese. It’s a dish that relies on the quality of its components and the balance of its textures and flavours.
• Grilled Skewers: The menu features a selection of grilled skewers, typified by the tender tubes of octopus. Here, the char of the grill is beautifully counterpointed by a "perky fermented chilli gremolata," adding a vibrant, acidic, and subtly spicy kick that brightens the rich seafood.
• Prawn Cutlet Sandwich: This playful creation embodies Il Santo’s fusion spirit. Made with rounds of supermarket white bread, it’s a nod to both Italy’s delicate tramezzino sandwiches and Japan’s cult-favourite konbini sandos. It’s an unexpected, fun, and utterly delicious offering that perfectly illustrates the kitchen’s willingness to innovate while respecting culinary traditions.

Shared Gastronomic DNA:
While Il Santo proudly stands on its own, it benefits immensely from the established infrastructure and culinary prowess of its sister venues. This "crossover" ensures a consistent standard of excellence:

• Focaccia: The focaccia, a staple of any Italian meal, is baked at Canteen Pizza. Its description as "dense of crumb and golden of crust, its brittle cap shattering like good millefeuille pastry" highlights a remarkable textural quality and a depth of flavour that speaks to expert baking techniques.
• Pasta: The heart of any Italian osteria, Il Santo’s "bitey semolina and egg pastas" are extruded at Il Lido. This direct connection ensures authenticity and quality. Dishes like the knockout mafaldine, generously paired with a thick braise of borlotti beans, demonstrate the kitchen’s ability to transform simple ingredients into profoundly satisfying plates.
• Desserts: The dessert offerings, including a thick, sweet lemon curd tart, are also products of the same central kitchen, ensuring a consistently high standard from start to finish.

The "Holy Drinker" Experience:
The concept of "santo bevitore" is more than just a name; it’s a guiding philosophy for Il Santo’s beverage program. The "snappy Aus-talian line-up of vino and cocktails" is carefully curated to offer diverse choices that complement the food and encourage exploration. The wine list likely features a thoughtful selection of both classic Italian varietals and innovative Australian wines, reflecting a modern appreciation for both heritage and local terroir. The cocktails are crafted with precision, designed not just to quench thirst but to evoke sensations and perhaps, as the Roth novel suggests, even lead to "epiphanies or any other minor miracles" through the pure enjoyment of a perfectly mixed drink. This focus elevates the act of drinking from mere consumption to an integral part of the overall sensory experience.

Exemplary Front-of-House Leadership:
The seamless operation and welcoming atmosphere of Il Santo are largely due to the formidable presence of Sally Lovell (Group Operations Manager) and Melanie Watts (Senior Waitstaff). Their constant, synchronised presence on the floor ensures that service is not just efficient but also warm and engaging. Their professionalism, deep knowledge of the menu and beverage list, and "cheeriness bordering on the saintly" create an environment where diners feel genuinely cared for. Their dynamic partnership is described as the "most memorable female front-of-house duo" – a testament to their exceptional ability to elevate the dining experience through attentive, intuitive service. They embody the spirit of hospitality that is central to the group’s success.

Official Responses and Expert Commentary

While specific official statements from the owners are not provided in the original text, the discerning observations of Max Veenhuyzen, Gourmet Traveller’s esteemed West Australian editor, serve as powerful expert commentary on Il Santo’s launch and its significance. Veenhuyzen’s extensive experience covering the local food and drink scene since 2010 lends considerable weight to his review, effectively acting as an authoritative voice within the industry.

Veenhuyzen’s implicit "official response" is one of strong affirmation and admiration. He highlights the inherent high expectations placed upon the Il Lido crew, acknowledging that they not only meet these expectations but consistently deliver "good things." His detailed breakdown of the restaurant’s unique identity – from its name’s origin to its urban aesthetic and culinary direction – indicates a deep appreciation for the strategic thought and meticulous execution behind Il Santo. The comparison of the front-of-house duo to a positive version of "Max and Caroline" from Two Broke Girls underscores their exceptional performance, suggesting that the human element of service is as polished as the cuisine and design.

From an industry perspective, Il Santo’s opening signifies a continued trend of established, successful restaurant groups leveraging their expertise to diversify their portfolios and explore new culinary niches. The group’s decision to move into Claremont, a locale known for its discerning clientele, demonstrates confidence in their brand and their ability to tailor concepts to specific markets. The "Aus-talian" approach, blending local produce and Australian wine culture with authentic Italian techniques, is also a testament to the evolving sophistication of the Australian dining scene, moving beyond strict adherence to tradition towards creative adaptation. The fact that key personnel like Executive Chef Nicola Lunardi oversee operations across the group, and central kitchens produce staples like focaccia and pasta, speaks to a robust operational model that ensures consistency and quality across all venues, further solidifying the group’s reputation as a leader in Perth’s hospitality sector.

Implications: Shaping Perth’s Culinary Future

The advent of Il Santo carries significant implications for Claremont, for the broader Perth dining scene, and for the future trajectory of its parent hospitality group.

For Claremont, Il Santo’s arrival injects a fresh wave of sophistication and a distinct urban energy. As a suburb known for its upscale retail and residential offerings, Claremont has long sought a dining scene that matches its demographic. Il Santo fills a crucial gap, offering an elegant, contemporary Italian osteria experience that appeals to a discerning clientele seeking quality food, exceptional drinks, and a stylish atmosphere, particularly for evening dining and sophisticated lunches. Its presence is likely to elevate Claremont’s status as a culinary destination, drawing diners from across the city and encouraging further investment in high-end hospitality ventures within the area. The "svelte, grissini-like space" and "gilded, dimly lit" aesthetic offer a different kind of allure than more traditional establishments, potentially attracting a younger, fashion-conscious crowd alongside established gourmands.

For the Perth dining scene as a whole, Il Santo serves as a benchmark for contemporary Italian cuisine. It demonstrates that innovation can thrive within traditional frameworks, as evidenced by dishes like the prawn cutlet sandwich that deftly bridges Italian and Japanese culinary influences. The emphasis on a "snappy Aus-talian line-up of vino and cocktails" also highlights the increasing sophistication of beverage programs in Perth, where local wines and creative mixology are given equal footing with international selections. This commitment to quality and imaginative interpretation pushes other establishments to continually refine their offerings, fostering a healthy competitive environment that ultimately benefits the consumer. Il Santo’s urban, non-traditional approach also broadens the definition of Italian dining in Perth, moving beyond red-sauce stereotypes to embrace a more nuanced and cosmopolitan interpretation.

Finally, for the hospitality group behind Il Lido and Canteen Pizza, Il Santo represents a strategic and successful expansion that further solidifies their dominance in the Italian dining sector. By demonstrating their ability to successfully execute distinct concepts – from coastal casual to wood-fired pizza to urban osteria – they showcase remarkable versatility and a deep understanding of market segmentation. This expansion strengthens their brand equity, proving that their commitment to quality and thoughtful execution transcends specific formats. The synergy between the venues, such as the shared kitchen facilities for focaccia, pasta, and desserts, and the group-wide leadership of Chef Nicola Lunardi, indicates a well-oiled machine capable of sustained growth and innovation. Il Santo is not just another restaurant; it is a declaration of intent, signaling that this group intends to remain at the forefront of Perth’s dynamic culinary landscape, continually shaping tastes and setting new standards for excellence. Its potential to become a long-term fixture and a new icon in Perth’s gastronomic tapestry is undeniable, promising countless "holy drinking" moments and culinary revelations for years to come.