By Tracey Colley
September 29, 2026
(This article is from: Summer 2026 issue of Culture Cheese Magazine)

London, UK – As the crisp autumn air settles over the British capital, a quiet revolution is unfolding within the hallowed halls of the Academy of Cheese. Now in its fifth groundbreaking edition, the Affineur of the Year competition is not merely a contest; it is a crucible of creativity, a testament to trust, and a powerful force quietly reshaping the craft of affinage worldwide. This year, the event, coinciding with the landing of this issue on US shelves, once again draws an eclectic mix of cheesemongers and cheesemakers, united by a singular passion: to elevate the humble cheese wheel into an extraordinary culinary experience.

This prestigious British competition stands apart from its international counterparts, challenging traditional boundaries and fostering an unparalleled spirit of innovation. More than just a showcase of matured cheeses, it is a deep dive into the philosophy and practice of affinage, inviting participants to explore the uncharted territories of flavor, texture, and aroma.

The Art and Science of Affinage: A Modern Renaissance

Affinage, the process of maturing cheese, is an ancient craft, often described as the "invisible hand" that guides a young, fresh cheese to its peak expression. Historically, affineurs were often cave masters or specialists entrusted with the delicate task of monitoring humidity, temperature, and microbial activity to coax out the cheese’s full potential. In an era dominated by large-scale production, the role of the artisanal affineur has re-emerged as a vital bridge between cheesemaker and consumer, ensuring that each wheel reaches its optimal ripeness and character.

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition takes this time-honored tradition and injects it with a potent dose of contemporary experimentation. Unlike competitions that judge finished products, this event focuses on the process of maturation, turning it into a dynamic, interactive challenge. Competitors are not merely presenting their best work; they are demonstrating their mastery over an evolving, living foodstuff.

A Journey of Transformation: The Competition’s Unique Format

The heart of the Affineur of the Year competition lies in its audacious premise: competitors are given young, unaged wheels from a selection of Britain’s most celebrated cheesemakers. This year’s stellar lineup includes:

• Quicke’s Cheddar: A quintessential English clothbound cheddar, known for its complex, nutty, and savory profile.
• Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly: A traditional Welsh Caerphilly, celebrated for its crumbly texture and lemony freshness.
• Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton: An iconic British blue, characterized by its rich, creamy texture and piquant notes.
• Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod: A raw milk Brie-style cheese, offering a luscious, earthy, and mushroomy experience.
• White Lake Cheese Rachel: A semi-hard goat’s cheese, typically sweet, nutty, and subtly lactic.

Crucially, all these cheeses are sourced from the same batch of milk, providing a foundational consistency that magnifies the impact of each affineur’s unique techniques. From this shared starting point, the rules largely dissipate. There are no geographical limits on where the cheeses can be matured, no prescribed techniques, and no predefined aging regimes. Instead, entrants are given carte blanche to experiment, brush, wash, turn, and age their cheeses according to their own instincts, knowledge, and creative vision.

This unstructured freedom is what truly makes the competition compelling. It’s a deliberate departure from the often-rigid Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) constraints and orthodox maturation paths that govern much of traditional European cheesemaking. Competitors are encouraged to push boundaries, exploring novel combinations of humidity, surface treatments (from local ciders and beers to botanicals), and aging environments. The result is a transformation of familiar cheeses into deeply personal expressions of place, process, and pioneering spirit.

Alongside the finished, matured cheeses, judges meticulously assess carefully written "Statements of Intent." These documents provide a window into the affineur’s mind, detailing every choice made, every technique employed, and the rationale behind each decision. This dual assessment – of the tangible product and the intellectual journey – ensures that innovation is balanced with intention and understanding.

Chronology of an Innovation: Five Years of Evolution

The Academy of Cheese launched the Affineur of the Year competition in 2022 with a clear vision: to shine a spotlight on the often-overlooked craft of affinage and to foster a community of excellence. What began as a bold experiment has, in just five years, blossomed into an internationally recognized event, inspiring a new generation of cheese professionals.

In its nascent years, the competition focused on establishing the core concept, proving the viability of its unconventional format. Early editions saw participants cautiously experimenting, building confidence in their abilities to significantly alter and enhance the cheeses. As the competition gained traction, the level of innovation escalated dramatically. Each year has built upon the last, with affineurs increasingly daring to explore more radical maturation techniques, leading to cheeses with astonishingly complex and unexpected flavor profiles.

The competition’s growth has also mirrored the broader renaissance in artisanal cheese. As consumers become more discerning and interested in the provenance and story behind their food, the role of the affineur becomes ever more critical. The Academy of Cheese has effectively positioned affinage as not just a skill, but an art form integral to the entire cheese ecosystem, from farm to counter.

A Level Playing Field: Cheesemongers and Cheesemakers United

One of the most distinguishing features of this competition is its unique inclusivity: cheesemongers and cheesemakers compete side-by-side. This creates a rare and valuable level playing field, recognizing affinage as a distinct yet inseparable facet of both cheese production and retail. It breaks down traditional silos, fostering collaboration and mutual respect between those who make the cheese and those who care for it before it reaches the consumer.

The competitors are not necessarily professional affineurs by title. They are skilled, curious practitioners – from small deli owners to dairy managers – who, with the explicit consent of the original makers, are given the unprecedented freedom to push creative boundaries. This dynamic exchange between the "creator" and the "carer" of the cheese is what truly sets the competition apart.

The Power of Trust and Collaboration

What truly elevates the Affineur of the Year competition is the profound level of trust it demands. British cheesemakers place an extraordinary leap of faith in the competitors handling their young, unaged cheeses. Entrusting their prized creations, made from a single batch of precious milk, to external affineurs for extensive experimentation is a testament to the competition’s integrity and the collaborative spirit it fosters.

This leap of faith has paid off handsomely. Past editions have not only yielded astonishingly innovative cheeses but have also inspired the original producers to refine their own aging practices. In some cases, the techniques and flavor profiles first explored in the competition have even led to the development of entirely new cheeses that have gone into commercial production, a tangible legacy of the event’s influence. It demonstrates a virtuous cycle where innovation from the competition directly feeds back into the industry, enriching the entire British cheese landscape.

Spotlight On: Josh Windsor, American Affineur and Esteemed Judge

This year’s judging panel boasts an impressive array of international talent, including American affineur Josh Windsor, a pivotal figure from New York’s renowned Murray’s Cheese. His participation underscores the competition’s growing global prestige and influence.

"I am absolutely thrilled to be judging at the Affineur of the Year awards for the first time," Windsor shared. "As an American affineur, I feel a strong sense of kinship between what the Academy of Cheese has accomplished and the work we do at Murray’s Cheese in New York, where we mature a variety of cheeses from around the world in traditional and novel ways. Affinage is an innovative toolset for both exploring and thinking beyond the traditions and styles of cheese that are available at the counter today. Having admired from afar the creativity and craft that has arisen from previous competitions, it is exciting to now lend a professional eye to this year’s talented and inventive entries."

Windsor’s perspective highlights the universal appeal of affinage as a craft that transcends geographical borders. His presence on the judging panel brings an international lens, appreciating how the British competition’s ethos resonates with the vibrant, experimental spirit found in American artisanal cheese scenes. His expertise will be invaluable in identifying truly groundbreaking work.

Spotlight Cheese: Dillon – A Three-Time Champion’s Masterpiece

Among the competition’s most celebrated success stories is Perry Wakeman, who has cemented his legacy by winning his third Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year title. His winning wheel, aptly named ‘Dillon,’ exemplifies the profound impact this competition can have, having now successfully entered commercial production.

Dillon began its life as a young, clothbound Quicke’s Cheddar. Wakeman’s masterful maturation process, spanning 10 to 12 months, transformed it into something entirely new and captivating. His technique involved a spiked roller to perforate the rind with precisely 244 holes, a meticulous detail designed to manage moisture loss and surface mold development with exceptional precision.

The resulting flavor profile of Dillon is deeply savory and layered, revealing notes of toasted butter, roasted nuts, profound mushroomy umami, and a subtle, alluring barbecue undertone. The texture is equally remarkable: chewy, slightly elastic, and exhibiting a flinty break reminiscent of a young Parmesan-Cheddar hybrid. Dillon is a testament to Wakeman’s acute understanding of cheese mechanics and his adventurous palate, proving that even a traditional Cheddar can be reimagined with spectacular results.

Speaking about his achievement, Wakeman remarked, "Winning a third time with Dillon is incredibly humbling. This competition pushes you to truly understand cheese at a molecular level, to listen to what the wheel needs, and to dare to imagine new possibilities. The collaboration with Quicke’s and the freedom the Academy provides are what make this all possible. Dillon is more than just a cheese; it’s a journey of discovery."

The Implications: A Global Ripple Effect

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition carries significant implications for the global cheese industry.

1. Elevation of British Cheese: By showcasing the transformative potential of British milk, the competition not only highlights the exceptional quality of the country’s cheesemakers but also positions British cheese as a hub of innovation. It fosters a reputation for creativity and boundary-pushing, attracting international attention and respect.

2. Redefining Affinage: The competition actively redefines the role of the affineur, moving it beyond mere guardianship to active co-creation. It champions the idea that affinage is not a secondary process but a primary, artistic discipline integral to the identity of a cheese. This encourages more individuals to pursue the craft and elevates its academic and practical standing.

3. Fostering Innovation and Sustainability: The experimental nature of the competition can lead to the discovery of new maturation techniques that are more sustainable, efficient, or produce unique sensory experiences. It inspires cheesemakers to consider alternative aging paths for their own products, fostering a culture of continuous improvement across the industry.

4. Enhanced Consumer Experience: Ultimately, the greatest beneficiaries are cheese lovers worldwide. The competition directly contributes to a richer, more diverse, and exciting cheese landscape. Consumers gain access to new flavors, textures, and stories, deepening their appreciation for the craft and the incredible versatility of cheese. The success of cheeses like Dillon, moving from competition triumph to commercial availability, ensures that these innovations reach a broader audience.

5. A Model for Other Industries: The collaborative, experimental, and trust-based model of the Affineur of the Year competition offers valuable lessons for other artisanal food industries seeking to foster innovation and cross-disciplinary excellence.

The fifth edition of the Affineur of the Year competition is more than an annual event; it is a vital catalyst in the ongoing evolution of cheese. Through bold experimentation, profound trust, and a shared passion, the Academy of Cheese is not just crowning champions, but actively shaping the future of one of the world’s most beloved foods.

Discover more about this year’s competition: Meet the affineurs and cheesemakers, explore the cheeses they entered, and see who took home the prizes. Plus, dive into the judging panel, standout flavors, and the stories behind the winners and finalists at academyofcheese.org/awards/affineur-of-the-year/.

About the Author:
Tracey Colley has worked in the cheese industry for over 20 years. As an award-winning deli owner, a top-tier Account Manager and Events Organizer for fine food & cheese Distributor Harvey & Brockless, and currently as Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, Tracey brings a wealth of experience to her role. She has judged at the World Cheese Awards for many years, as well as the International Cheese & Dairy Awards and Artisan Cheese Awards.