By Tracey Colley
September 29, 2026
(This article is from: Summer 2026 issue of Culture Cheese Magazine)

Plus, learn what sets this British competition apart from other international cheese contests.

A scene from judging the Affineur of the Year competition. Photograph courtesy of the Academy of Cheese.

As this summer issue lands on US shelves, London is buzzing with the energy of the fifth edition of the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition. This event, now a cornerstone of the global cheese calendar, is not merely a contest of skill but a profound exploration of potential, quietly reshaping the craft of affinage worldwide and redefining the boundaries of what British cheese can be.

Main Facts: A Revolution in Maturation

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition stands as a beacon of innovation in the artisanal food world. Now in its fifth year, this London-based event has garnered international acclaim for its unique approach to the ancient art of affinage – the careful process of aging and maturing cheese. Unlike conventional cheese awards that judge finished products, this competition focuses on the transformative journey, empowering cheesemongers and cheesemakers alike to push the creative and scientific limits of cheese maturation.

At its core, the competition provides entrants with young, nascent wheels from a selection of Britain’s most esteemed cheesemakers. For the 2026 edition, these include iconic cheeses such as Quicke’s Cheddar, Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly, Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton, Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod, and White Lake Cheese Rachel. Crucially, all these cheeses are sourced from the same batch of milk, ensuring a level playing field and highlighting the profound impact of affinage itself. From this starting point, the rules governing maturation largely dissolve, replaced by a radical freedom for experimentation. Competitors are encouraged to brush, wash, and age their assigned cheeses according to their unique instincts and expertise, meticulously documenting each decision in a “Statement of Intent.” These detailed records are then assessed by judges alongside the final, aged cheeses, providing insight into the intellectual and practical journey undertaken by each affineur.

This unstructured freedom is precisely what makes the competition so compelling and impactful. It creates an environment where traditional methods can be reinterpreted, and entirely new techniques can emerge, unfettered by geographical indications (PDOs) or orthodox maturation paths. The result is a vibrant showcase of creativity, where familiar cheeses are transformed into personal expressions of place, process, and vision. The competition not only celebrates the skill of the affineur but also fosters an unparalleled spirit of collaboration and trust between cheesemakers and those who mature their products, ultimately driving forward the quality and diversity of British cheese.

Chronology: From Concept to Culinary Catalyst

The Genesis of Innovation: A Brief History of the Competition

The concept for the Affineur of the Year competition was born from a desire within the Academy of Cheese to shine a spotlight on a often-overlooked yet critical stage of cheesemaking: affinage. Historically, the cheesemaker receives the bulk of the recognition, while the affineur, who guides the cheese through its crucial aging period, often remains in the shadows. Recognizing this imbalance, and the immense skill involved in optimizing a cheese’s flavor, texture, and aroma, the Academy launched the inaugural competition in 2022.

The vision, championed by founding director Tracey Colley and other industry leaders, was to create a platform that not only celebrated individual talent but also fostered a deeper understanding and appreciation for affinage as a distinct profession. The early editions were met with enthusiasm, drawing entries from a diverse pool of practitioners, from seasoned cheesemongers with dedicated aging rooms to ambitious cheesemakers eager to explore new dimensions for their own products. Over the past five years, the competition has steadily grown in stature and influence, attracting an increasing number of participants and drawing the attention of international cheese experts. Each year has seen a rise in the sophistication of techniques employed and the quality of the aged cheeses, solidifying its reputation as a crucial incubator for innovation in the British cheese landscape. The competition has evolved from a novel idea into a pivotal event, demonstrating the Academy’s commitment to advancing cheese education and industry best practices.

The Journey of a Wheel: From Dairy to Distinction

The chronological journey for each competitor begins months before the judging day. Typically, in the spring, participants receive their young, carefully selected cheese wheels. This crucial early stage involves an initial assessment of the cheese’s nascent characteristics – its inherent qualities, potential flaws, and suitability for various aging paths. The choice of base cheeses, all from the same batch of milk, is paramount. This standardisation ensures that any significant divergence in the final product can be attributed directly to the affineur’s intervention, rather than variations in the initial make.

Over the ensuing months – often between six to twelve months, depending on the cheese type – competitors meticulously care for their charges. This period is a delicate balance of art and science. Affineurs might choose to experiment with different humidity levels, temperature fluctuations, surface treatments (such as rubbing with spirits, oils, or spices), or even specific microbial inoculations. Every decision, every brushstroke, every turn of the wheel contributes to the cheese’s evolving character. Throughout this maturation period, a comprehensive “Statement of Intent” is painstakingly drafted, documenting each action, the rationale behind it, and the observed changes in the cheese. This diary serves as a scientific log and a philosophical treatise on the affineur’s journey.

Finally, as autumn approaches, the matured cheeses, accompanied by their Statements of Intent, are submitted for judging. The process typically involves several rounds. An initial technical assessment might evaluate rind integrity, internal paste consistency, and overall health. Subsequent rounds delve into sensory analysis – a blind tasting by a panel of expert judges who evaluate flavor, aroma, texture, and overall balance. The Statements of Intent are then cross-referenced with the tasting notes, allowing judges to understand the intentionality and success of each affineur’s chosen path. This dual assessment ensures that innovation is not just rewarded for its outcome, but also for the thoughtful process and expertise that underpins it.

Supporting Data: Unpacking the Art and Science

The Art of Affinage: A Deep Dive

Affinage, derived from the French verb affiner, meaning "to refine," is far more than mere storage. It is an intricate craft, a blend of tradition, intuition, and scientific understanding, where the affineur acts as a guardian and sculptor of the cheese’s destiny. The affineur’s cave, whether a natural cavern or a purpose-built climate-controlled room, becomes a living ecosystem, carefully managed to promote the desired microbial activity on and within the cheese. This environment, alongside the affineur’s direct interventions – turning, brushing, washing, piercing – dictates the development of the cheese’s rind, the breakdown of proteins and fats within the paste, and ultimately, the complex symphony of flavors and aromas that emerge.

This competition uniquely contributes to the understanding and advancement of affinage by democratizing the process. It allows practitioners to step beyond the constraints of commercial production or regional mandates (like PDOs) and explore the full spectrum of what affinage can achieve. By documenting their processes, competitors contribute invaluable data to the collective knowledge of the cheese community, pushing the boundaries of what is considered possible and expanding the lexicon of cheese description.

The Chosen Cheeses: A Canvas for Creativity

The selection of base cheeses for the Affineur of the Year competition is a deliberate choice, designed to provide a rich and varied canvas for experimentation while highlighting the excellence of British cheesemaking.

• Quicke’s Cheddar: From the heart of Devon, Quicke’s Cheddar is a quintessential clothbound English cheddar, renowned for its rich, complex, nutty, and often earthy flavors. Made with traditional starter cultures and matured for many months, its firm, crumbly texture and long finish make it an ideal candidate for affinage. Its robust nature allows it to withstand diverse environmental conditions and develop new flavor profiles without losing its inherent character.
• Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly: Hailing from Wales, Gorwydd Caerphilly is a modern classic, celebrated for its moist, slightly crumbly texture, fresh lactic tang, and a distinct mushroomy, savory rind. A traditional territorial cheese, its relatively short aging period and unique dual texture (a firm, almost chalky core and a softer, creamier layer beneath the rind) offer affineurs a fascinating challenge to manipulate moisture and surface development.
• Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton: One of Britain’s most iconic cheeses, Cropwell Bishop Stilton is a protected designation of origin (PDO) cheese known for its rich, creamy texture, deep blue veins, and piquant, savory notes. While Stilton has a defined maturation path, giving affineurs a young wheel offers a unique opportunity to influence the blue development, rind character, and overall intensity within the bounds of what a Stilton can be. This tests the affineur’s ability to refine an already complex cheese.
• Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod: This artisan Brie-style cheese from Suffolk is a raw milk, bloomy-rind masterpiece. Known for its rich, mushroomy aroma, creamy texture, and often a hint of farmyard character, Baron Bigod presents a different challenge. Affineurs can experiment with managing the delicate white mold rind, influencing the rate of proteolysis (protein breakdown) to achieve varying degrees of creaminess and flavor intensity, or even introducing new surface flora.
• White Lake Cheese Rachel: A semi-hard goat’s milk cheese from Somerset, Rachel is celebrated for its sweet, nutty, and slightly grassy flavors, with a firm yet yielding texture and a natural rind. Goat’s milk cheeses can be particularly responsive to affinage, with their unique fatty acid profile offering opportunities for developing complex, savory, or even spicy notes. Affineurs might explore different washing regimes to encourage specific rind cultures or alter the internal moisture content.

The fact that all these base cheeses come from the same batch of milk for each respective type is a critical detail. This scientific control eliminates variability in raw ingredients, ensuring that any significant differences in the final aged product are a direct testament to the affineur’s skill and chosen maturation techniques. It transforms the competition into a rigorous study of affinage itself.

The Craft of the Competitor: Unpacking the "Statements of Intent"

The "Statements of Intent" are far more than mere logbooks; they are intellectual roadmaps detailing the affineur’s philosophy, methodology, and scientific observations. Each statement typically outlines:

• Initial Assessment: The condition of the cheese upon receipt, its baseline characteristics.
• Affinage Environment: Details on temperature, humidity, and airflow of the maturation space.
• Intervention Strategy: Specific techniques employed – e.g., frequency and method of turning, type of brushes used, composition of washing solutions (brine, alcohol, specific cultures), or surface treatments (oils, herbs).
• Rationale: The why behind each decision, linking intended outcomes (e.g., "to promote a softer rind," "to encourage specific flora," "to slow moisture loss").
• Observations: Regular notes on the cheese’s evolving appearance, aroma, texture, and any challenges encountered.
• Sensory Goals: The desired flavor, aroma, and texture profile the affineur aims to achieve.

These statements are invaluable for the judges, providing context and insight into the affineur’s journey. They transform the tasting experience from a simple evaluation of deliciousness into an informed assessment of intentionality, execution, and success against stated goals. They highlight the intellectual rigor behind the craft, demonstrating that affinage is as much about informed decision-making as it is about skilled execution.

The Judging Panel: A Confluence of Expertise

The judging panel for the Affineur of the Year competition is a carefully curated group of international experts, reflecting the diverse facets of the cheese world. It includes renowned cheesemakers, veteran cheesemongers, food critics, culinary educators, and professional affineurs.

Josh Windsor, an American affineur from New York’s esteemed Murray’s Cheese, epitomizes the caliber of the judging panel. As he articulated, “I am absolutely thrilled to be judging at the Affineur of the Year awards for the first time. As an American affineur, I feel a strong sense of kinship between what the Academy of Cheese has accomplished and the work we do at Murray’s Cheese in New York, where we mature a variety of cheeses from around the world in traditional and novel ways. Affinage is an innovative toolset for both exploring and thinking beyond the traditions and styles of cheese that are available at the counter today. Having admired from afar the creativity and craft that has arisen from previous competitions, it is exciting to now lend a professional eye to this year’s talented and inventive entries.” His presence underscores the international recognition of the competition and its influence beyond British shores.

My own involvement, with over two decades in the cheese industry, including roles as an award-winning deli owner and as Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, provides a blend of practical, commercial, and educational perspectives. Having judged at prestigious events like the World Cheese Awards and the International Cheese & Dairy Awards, I can attest to the unique demands of assessing affinage, where the journey is as important as the destination. The diversity of expertise ensures that entries are evaluated comprehensively, from technical merit and adherence to intent, to sensory excellence and market potential.

Spotlight on Innovation: The Legacy of ‘Dillon’

The story of ‘Dillon’ is a testament to the competition’s power to inspire and bring groundbreaking cheeses into production. Perry Wakeman, a three-time Affineur of the Year title winner, achieved his third triumph with Dillon, a cheese so exceptional it has now transitioned from competition entry to commercial production.

Dillon began its life as a young, clothbound Quicke’s Cheddar. Wakeman matured it for 10 to 12 months, but his innovative approach lay in a singular technique: perforating the rind with a spiked roller, creating 244 precise holes. This ingenious method was designed to carefully manage moisture loss and control the development of surface molds, allowing for a unique microclimate within and around the cheese. The result is a cheese of profound character: deeply savory and layered, with tasting notes that evoke toasted butter, roasted nuts, mushroomy umami, and a subtle, intriguing barbecue smokiness. Its texture is equally remarkable – chewy, slightly elastic, and possessing a flinty break reminiscent of a young Parmesan-Cheddar hybrid. Dillon’s success exemplifies how the competition serves as a vital testbed for techniques that can redefine classic cheeses and enrich the global cheese market.

Official Responses: Voices from the Academy and Beyond

Voices from the Academy: Shaping the Future of Cheese

As a Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, I can confidently say that the Affineur of the Year competition is one of our proudest achievements. “When we conceived this competition, our ambition was not just to award prizes, but to ignite a conversation, to elevate the role of the affineur, and to inspire genuine innovation within the British cheese sector,” I commented. “To see the creativity, the scientific rigor, and the sheer passion that each competitor brings is truly inspiring. The impact goes far beyond the awards ceremony; it infiltrates our educational programs, informs our industry discussions, and ultimately enriches the experience of every cheese lover.”

The competition serves as a living laboratory for the Academy’s mission to promote cheese education and best practices. It provides tangible examples of advanced affinage techniques, which are then integrated into our various levels of cheese certifications, ensuring that future generations of cheese professionals are equipped with the latest knowledge and skills.

The Cheesemakers’ Trust: A Partnership in Maturation

One of the most remarkable aspects of the competition is the extraordinary trust that British cheesemakers place in the competitors. Handing over young wheels of their prized cheeses, knowing they will be subjected to unconventional maturation regimes, represents a significant leap of faith. Yet, this partnership has proven incredibly fruitful.

Representatives from the participating dairies consistently express their admiration for the affineurs’ work. While hypothetical, a cheesemaker from Quicke’s might say, “We craft our Cheddar with immense pride, following generations of tradition. But seeing what these affineurs can achieve with our young wheels – how they can coax out entirely new dimensions of flavor and texture – is simply breathtaking. It challenges us to think differently about our own aging practices and has even inspired us to explore new products based on techniques first pioneered in the competition.” This sentiment is echoed across the board, highlighting a symbiotic relationship where cheesemakers provide the raw material, and affineurs reveal its hidden potential, ultimately benefiting the entire industry. This collaboration fosters a dynamic feedback loop, driving continuous improvement and innovation from farm to finish.

Implications: Reshaping the Global Cheese Landscape

Beyond the Competition: Reshaping the Global Cheese Landscape

The implications of the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition extend far beyond the celebratory awards ceremony in London. It is a powerful catalyst for change, sending ripples throughout the global cheese industry.

For British Cheese: The competition significantly elevates the global standing of British cheese. By showcasing radical transformations of traditional cheeses, it demonstrates that British cheesemaking is not merely steeped in heritage but is also a vibrant hub of cutting-edge innovation. It encourages producers to think beyond PDO constraints and explore new market niches, reinforcing the idea that British cheese can be both classic and avant-garde. The development of new cheeses, like Dillon, directly entering production, provides tangible evidence of this creative dynamism and offers consumers an ever-expanding array of high-quality, distinctive products.

For Affinage as a Craft: The competition is instrumental in professionalizing and redefining the role of the affineur. It grants public recognition to a craft that has often been undervalued, emphasizing the profound impact of maturation on the final product. By demanding detailed "Statements of Intent" and rewarding intentionality, it promotes a more scientific and analytical approach to affinage, encouraging practitioners to systematically understand and control the variables of aging. This rigorous approach is likely to inspire more dedicated affineurs and better-equipped aging facilities worldwide.

For Consumers: Ultimately, cheese lovers are the greatest beneficiaries. The competition broadens the spectrum of flavors and textures available, inviting consumers to appreciate the nuanced artistry of affinage. It encourages a deeper understanding of how a cheese develops its character, fostering a more educated and discerning palate. The stories behind these transformed cheeses add a layer of narrative richness, connecting consumers more intimately with the journey from milk to masterpiece.

A Model for Other Regions? The unique, collaborative, and experimental format of this competition presents a compelling model for other cheese-producing regions around the world. While challenges might exist in terms of securing cheesemaker trust or adapting to local cheese traditions, the core principle of empowering affineurs to innovate with established local cheeses holds immense potential. Such competitions could foster regional innovation, preserve traditional cheese types by offering new interpretations, and promote cross-cultural exchange of affinage techniques.

The Future of Cheese Innovation: Looking ahead, the Affineur of the Year competition is poised to continue pushing boundaries. We anticipate seeing even more sophisticated scientific approaches, greater exploration of microbial interactions, and perhaps even the integration of new technologies in environmental control or sensory analysis. The competition acts as a crucial engine for research and development within the cheese sector, ensuring that the craft of affinage remains dynamic, exciting, and perpetually evolving. It is not just about finding the best affineur; it is about cultivating a future where cheese is understood, appreciated, and innovated upon at every stage of its remarkable journey.

Discover more about this year’s competition: Meet the affineurs and cheesemakers, explore the cheeses they entered, and see who took home the prizes. Plus, dive into the judging panel, standout flavors, and the stories behind the winners and finalists at academyofcheese.org/awards/affineur-of-the-year/.