In the landscape of modern gastronomy, few names carry as much weight as Marcus Samuelsson. The world-renowned chef, restaurateur, and television personality has long been celebrated for his ability to weave disparate cultural threads into a cohesive culinary tapestry. His latest project, the cookbook Back to Green: Rediscovering a World of Delicious, Healthy Eating, serves as a manifesto for a new era of home cooking—one that prioritizes health and sustainability without sacrificing the visceral joy of a well-prepared meal. Central to this new collection is Samuelsson’s reimagining of a classic: the Brazilian steak, accompanied by cassava fries and a vibrant green salsa.
By distilling the essence of the expensive Brazilian churrascaria (steakhouse) into an accessible, home-cooked format, Samuelsson is challenging the notion that luxury and health are mutually exclusive. This approach reflects a broader shift in the culinary industry toward "plant-forward" dining, where meat is treated with reverence and restraint rather than excess.
Main Facts: A New Blueprint for the Brazilian Classic
The centerpiece of Samuelsson’s Brazilian-inspired meal is a significant departure from the massive, skewer-born cuts typical of traditional Brazilian steakhouses. Instead of the endless parade of beef, Samuelsson advocates for precision and portion control. His recipe utilizes three-ounce portions of filet mignon, which are pounded to a uniform one-fourth-inch thickness. This technique, often referred to in French cooking as a paillard, ensures a rapid cooking time and a tender texture that absorbs seasoning more effectively.
The seasoning profile is minimalist yet bold: a blend of crushed coriander seeds, black peppercorns, and salt, brushed with high-quality olive oil. Grilled over medium-high heat for a mere two minutes per side, the steak achieves a charred exterior while maintaining a succulent interior.
The accompaniment is equally deliberate. Rather than standard potato fries, Samuelsson introduces the home cook to cassava, also known as yuca. A starchy root vegetable native to South America and a staple across Africa, cassava provides a gluten-free, nutritionally dense alternative to the potato. The preparation involves a multi-step process—soaking, boiling, cutting, and briefly freezing—before frying in avocado oil. This method results in a fry that is remarkably crispy on the outside and pillowy on the inside.
To tie the components together, Samuelsson utilizes a "flavor-punching" green salsa. This sauce, rich in avocado, fresh chiles, and lime juice, provides the necessary acidity and creaminess to balance the earthy spices of the meat and the starchiness of the cassava.
Chronology: From Ethiopian Roots to Global Influence
To understand the inspiration behind Back to Green, one must look at the trajectory of Marcus Samuelsson’s career. Born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden by adoptive parents, Samuelsson’s palate was formed by a unique intersection of flavors. His early training in Switzerland and France instilled a respect for technique, but it was his move to New York City and the eventual opening of Red Rooster in Harlem that solidified his reputation as a chef who bridges the gap between high-end dining and community-focused soul food.
The development of this specific recipe and the broader cookbook follows a timeline of increasing global awareness regarding food systems:
- 2010–2020: Samuelsson establishes himself as a fixture in the American culinary scene, winning multiple James Beard Awards and becoming a familiar face on programs like Top Chef Masters and Chopped.
- 2021–2023: During the post-pandemic era, Samuelsson began focusing more intently on the intersection of health, ancient ingredients, and home cooking. He noted a growing consumer fatigue with "performative" dining—the expensive, heavy meals that often leave diners feeling sluggish.
- Late 2024 (Projected): The release of Back to Green marks a pivot toward "ancient ingredients." The book emphasizes "of-the-earth" foods like cassava, teff, and various legumes that have sustained civilizations for millennia.
- The Interview: In a recent exclusive interview with Tasting Table, Samuelsson detailed how the Brazilian steak recipe serves as a gateway for home cooks to experiment with these ancient ingredients while maintaining the familiarity of a steak dinner.
Supporting Data: The Science and Nutrition of the Plate
The choice of ingredients in Samuelsson’s version of the Brazilian steak dinner is backed by contemporary nutritional science and culinary logic.
1. The Cassava Advantage:
Cassava is more than just a potato substitute; it is a nutritional powerhouse. It is high in resistant starch, which has been linked to improved metabolic health and better blood sugar regulation. Furthermore, by using avocado oil for frying, Samuelsson utilizes a fat with a high smoke point and a profile rich in monounsaturated fats, which are heart-healthy compared to the seed oils often used in commercial deep-frying.
2. The "Pounding" Technique:
Pounding the steak serves a dual purpose. Mechanically, it breaks down muscle fibers, making a lean cut like filet even more tender. Thermally, the increased surface area allows for a faster Maillard reaction—the chemical reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars that gives browned food its distinctive flavor. This allows for a "crust" to form without overcooking the center of the thin meat.
3. Plant-Forward vs. Plant-Based:
The recipe exemplifies the "plant-forward" movement. According to data from the Culinary Institute of America’s Menus of Change initiative, plant-forward dining does not require the total elimination of meat. Instead, it suggests that meat should be used as a "flavoring agent" or a high-quality accompaniment to a plate dominated by vegetables and whole grains. By reducing the steak portion to three ounces, Samuelsson aligns the dish with USDA-recommended serving sizes while still providing the "joy" of eating beef.
Official Responses: Insights from Marcus Samuelsson
During his conversation with Tasting Table, Samuelsson emphasized that the goal of his new culinary direction is not to restrict, but to expand the home cook’s repertoire.
"For me, it’s about when you want to eat healthy, it has to be delicious, and you have to have joy out of that," Samuelsson stated. "So those are the three promises. This is a plant-forward cookbook, but you can still add a steak and fries."
When addressing the potential intimidation factor of working with ingredients like cassava, Samuelsson was reassuring. "If you can cook a potato fry, you can cook the cassava fry, right?" he noted, encouraging cooks to look past the unfamiliar exterior of the root vegetable.
Perhaps the most revealing part of the interview was Samuelsson’s endorsement of cultural fusion. When asked about incorporating his Ethiopian heritage—specifically the berbere spice blend—into the Brazilian-themed dish, he was enthusiastic. "Well, I would say that berbere you can put on anything. It’s one of the best spice blends in the world," he said. He suggested that the smoky paprika and heat of berbere could easily replace or enhance the seasonings on both the steak and the cassava fries. "It’s one of the ingredients you can put on anything, and it will really enhance the meal."
Implications: The Future of Home Dining and Global Flavors
The introduction of Samuelsson’s Brazilian steak version into the home kitchen has several significant implications for the food industry and consumer behavior.
1. The Democratization of Luxury:
The traditional Brazilian steakhouse experience is often priced at $60 to $100 per person, excluding drinks and tips. Samuelsson’s recipe demonstrates that the flavor profile of these establishments—defined by smoke, salt, and acidity—can be replicated at a fraction of the cost. This "democratization of luxury" is a growing trend as inflation continues to impact dining-out habits.
2. The Rise of "Ancient Ingredients":
By featuring cassava and suggesting the use of teff (an Ethiopian ancient grain), Samuelsson is bringing "of-the-earth" ingredients into the mainstream. This helps diversify the global food supply and introduces home cooks to ingredients that are often more drought-resistant and sustainable than modern monocrops like wheat and corn.
3. Intentional Carnivory:
Samuelsson’s approach promotes "intentional carnivory"—the idea that if one chooses to eat meat, it should be of high quality, sourced responsibly, and consumed in portions that are healthy for both the body and the environment. This middle-ground approach is increasingly attractive to "flexitarians" who are wary of the environmental impact of industrial meat production but are not ready to adopt a strictly vegan lifestyle.
4. Cultural Fluidity in the Kitchen:
The suggestion to mix Ethiopian berbere with Brazilian steak highlights a shift toward "borderless" cooking. In the modern era, recipes are no longer static museum pieces; they are living entities that evolve as chefs and home cooks experiment with global pantries.
Conclusion
Marcus Samuelsson’s take on the Brazilian steak is more than just a recipe; it is a roadmap for the future of the American dinner table. By combining the techniques of the professional kitchen with the nutritional goals of the modern era, he provides a compelling argument for staying in. As Back to Green hits the shelves, it invites a new generation of cooks to discover that the most exciting flavors in the world don’t require a reservation—they only require a bit of curiosity and a well-seasoned pan. Through the humble cassava root and a perfectly thin steak, Samuelsson continues to prove that the world’s culinary traditions are best honored when they are shared, adapted, and enjoyed at home.
