The Reign of the Tomahawk: A Majestic Steak Dominates the Grilling Landscape

By Steven Raichlen, 5-time James Beard Award-winner and Barbecue Hall of Famer

The landscape of barbecue and grilling has witnessed a dramatic evolution, and few culinary phenomena exemplify this shift as vividly as the rise of the beef tomahawk steak. Once an obscure cut known primarily to butchers, the tomahawk has ascended to become the undisputed king of the steakhouse and a coveted centerpiece for any serious grill enthusiast. Its imposing presence, colossal bone, and rich, marbled meat have transformed it from a mere cut of beef into a symbol of culinary prowess and a guaranteed showstopper for any special occasion.

From Obscurity to Icon: The Genesis of the Tomahawk Steak

When I first embarked on my journey into the world of barbecue, the term "tomahawk" conjured images of ancient weaponry, not a culinary delight. The notion of a steak bearing such a formidable name was virtually unheard of. Fast forward to today, and it’s nearly impossible to visit a high-end steakhouse or even browse the meat counter at your local supermarket without encountering the magnetic allure of the beef tomahawk. This colossal cut has definitively claimed its throne as the ultimate steak status symbol. In fact, one audacious Miami restaurant even elevates it further by serving it adorned with gold leaf – a testament to its opulent appeal, though one best left to the imagination of those who don’t wish to inquire about the astronomical price tag.

While the current beef market often positions a tomahawk steak as a significant indulgence, its undeniable presence and the sheer pleasure it offers make it an irresistible choice for those seeking to mark a truly special occasion with an unforgettable grilling experience. The tomahawk is no longer just a steak; it’s an event, a statement, and a testament to the enduring power of exceptional ingredients and masterful preparation.

Unveiling the Beast: What Exactly is a Beef Tomahawk?

At its core, a beef tomahawk is a bone-in ribeye steak, distinguished by the dramatic inclusion of the entire rib bone. In the precise language of butchers, it corresponds to the IMPS/NAMP Number: 1103B. Typically, this impressive rib bone is "frenched," meaning it’s meticulously scraped clean of any adhering meat, creating a striking, handle-like protrusion. The visual impact is undeniable: a steak of monumental proportions, usually measuring a substantial two to three inches in thickness, crowned with a bone that extends an impressive five to eight inches. For the true carnivores and meat aficionados among us, it’s worth noting that tomahawks are expertly carved from ribs 6 through 12 of a steer’s ribcage, a prime section renowned for its tenderness and rich marbling.

This exceptional size and bone structure, however, present a unique set of challenges for the aspiring griller. Attempting to cook a tomahawk using the same direct grilling methods employed for a standard rib steak or rib-eye often leads to a frustrating outcome: a charred exterior that belies a stubbornly cold and raw interior. Conversely, employing a low-and-slow smoking approach, akin to preparing a brisket, risks sacrificing the coveted, intensely flavorful seared crust that is a hallmark of a perfectly cooked steak. The tomahawk, with its majestic stature, demands a more nuanced and strategic approach to achieve its full potential.

The Pinnacle of Preparation: Mastering the Reverse Sear

The secret to unlocking the tomahawk’s sublime flavor and perfect texture lies in a technique that bridges the worlds of barbecue and grilling: the reverse sear. This method, which I champion for its ability to deliver unparalleled results, begins with a gentle, low-temperature cooking phase, mirroring the time-honored traditions of true barbecue.

The Reverse Sear Process: A Step-by-Step Guide

1. The Low and Slow Overture: Begin by preheating your grill or smoker to a relatively low temperature, ideally between 225°F and 275°F (107°C – 135°C). This gentle heat allows the steak to cook through evenly without overcooking the exterior.
2. The First Transformation: Place the seasoned tomahawk steak directly on the grill grates. For an added layer of complexity and authentic barbecue flavor, consider introducing wood chunks or chips to the fire – hickory, oak, or mesquite are excellent choices. This will infuse the meat with a subtle smokiness that complements its rich beefiness.
3. Monitoring the Core: Cook the steak until its internal temperature reaches approximately 100°F (38°C) in the thickest part of the meat, away from the bone. This initial phase is crucial for ensuring an even cook throughout.
4. The Rest and Re-Energization: Carefully remove the tomahawk from the grill and place it on a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Allow it to rest for about 10-15 minutes. This resting period is vital for allowing the juices to redistribute within the meat.
5. The Fiery Finale: Searing for Perfection: Now, crank up the heat on your grill to high, aiming for a temperature of 450°F to 500°F (230°C – 260°C). Once the grill is screaming hot, return the tomahawk to the grates. Sear the steak for approximately 2-3 minutes per side, or until a deep, mahogany crust forms. This high-heat sear creates that irresistible, caramelized exterior.
6. The Final Judgment: Continue to grill, flipping occasionally, until the steak reaches your desired level of doneness. For a perfect medium-rare, aim for an internal temperature of around 130°F-135°F (54°C-57°C). Use an instant-read thermometer to ensure accuracy.
7. The Moment of Truth: Once the steak has reached its ideal temperature, remove it from the grill and let it rest for at least 10-15 minutes before carving. This final rest is paramount for allowing the juices to settle, resulting in an incredibly tender and flavorful steak.

The advantages of reverse searing are manifold. It guarantees an exceptionally even cook from edge to edge, eliminating the dreaded "bullseye" of undercooked meat in the center. Furthermore, the timing becomes far more forgiving, as the majority of the cooking is accomplished during the initial low-and-slow phase, allowing you to precisely control the final sear. And for those of us who appreciate the nuances of barbecue, the ability to incorporate wood smoke during the initial cook is an undeniable bonus – a substantial win in my book.

Alternative Approaches: Adapting the Tomahawk to Your Grill

While the reverse sear is my preferred method, the sheer versatility of the tomahawk allows for other creative and effective grilling techniques, particularly for those equipped with specialized grills.

The Santa Maria-Style Approach:

For those fortunate enough to possess a grill with an adjustable grate, such as a Santa Maria-style grill or a KUDU, a unique method can be employed. Position the grate at a higher elevation, approximately 18 inches above the direct heat source. This allows for a slower, more controlled direct grilling process.

1. Initial High-Altitude Grill: Place the seasoned tomahawk on the elevated grate. Grill slowly, turning the steak every few minutes to ensure even cooking without scorching. The goal here is to gently bring the internal temperature up.
2. The Crust Creation: During the final 5-10 minutes of cooking, lower the grate closer to the coals. This will allow you to achieve that desirable, crusty sear on the exterior.
3. Timing is Key: This method typically requires between 20 to 30 minutes of total cooking time, depending on the thickness of the steak and the heat of your grill.

The "Sear and Slide" Method:

For grills with a generous cooking surface, the "sear and slide" technique, popularized by Kalamazoo Outdoor Gourmet, offers another effective strategy. This method involves creating distinct heat zones on your grill.

1. Zone Creation: Set up your grill for direct grilling, dedicating one side to medium-high heat and the other to low heat.
2. The Initial Sear: Begin by placing the seasoned tomahawk on the hot side of the grill. Allow it to sizzle and develop a beautiful brown crust.
3. The Gentle Transition: Once the surface has begun to brown, carefully slide the steak to the cooler, low-heat zone. This allows the interior to continue cooking gently without overcooking the exterior.
4. The Back and Forth: Periodically, you’ll want to slide the steak back and forth between the hot and cool zones. This ensures that the steak cooks evenly throughout while continuously developing that coveted seared crust.
5. Completion: Similar to the Santa Maria-style approach, this method generally takes between 20 to 30 minutes, with the final internal temperature dictating doneness.

Elevating the Experience: Cowboy Butter and Beyond

To truly complement the magnificence of a grilled tomahawk, a flavorful accompaniment is essential. My signature "Cowboy Butter" is the perfect foil, its bold and herbaceous notes cutting through the richness of the beef, enhancing every bite.

Ingredients for Cowboy Butter:

• 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh chives
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of sea salt

Instructions for Cowboy Butter:

1. In a medium bowl, combine the softened butter with all the chopped herbs, minced garlic, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and sea salt.
2. Mix thoroughly until all ingredients are well incorporated.
3. You can either spoon the butter directly onto the hot steak or, for a more elegant presentation, roll the butter into a log using parchment paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm. Slice into rounds before serving.

The Enduring Legacy of the Tomahawk

The beef tomahawk’s journey from a butcher’s curiosity to a grilling phenomenon is a testament to its inherent qualities and the ingenuity of grill masters. It represents a deliberate choice to embrace a more substantial, more visually impressive cut, and to employ techniques that honor its inherent richness. Whether you choose the precision of the reverse sear, the controlled heat of a Santa Maria-style grill, or the dynamic approach of the "sear and slide," the tomahawk promises a grilling experience that is as rewarding as it is delicious. It’s a cut that demands respect, rewards patience, and ultimately delivers a feast fit for royalty, or at the very least, for any true aficionado of the grill.

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