By Josie Krogh
Digital Strategy Lead, Culture Cheese Magazine
September 28, 2026 | Web Exclusive
There are few destinations that capture the imagination quite like Shelburne Farms. Nestled majestically on the picturesque shores of Lake Champlain, this expansive 1,400-acre estate transcends the conventional definition of a farm. It is, in essence, a meticulously preserved world unto itself: a vibrant working farm, a beacon of historic architecture embodied by its grand inn, and colossal barns that echo with the ambitions of a bygone era. It was within the venerable walls of the farm’s Breeding Barn that the recent Vermont Cheese Week culminated, drawing together an assembly of the state’s most innovative cheesemakers and an almost overwhelming abundance of their exquisite creations.
The atmosphere was electric, a harmonious blend of artisanal passion and appreciative palates. As attendees navigated the bustling aisles, the air thrummed with conversation, laughter, and the rich, complex aromas of dairy transformed into edible art. This annual pilgrimage to Vermont’s cheese heartland is more than just a tasting event; it is a celebration of heritage, innovation, and the enduring spirit of a community dedicated to the craft of cheesemaking.
A Storied Setting: The Enduring Legacy of Shelburne Farms
The Breeding Barn itself is a silent, yet powerful, testament to the profound history etched into every corner of Shelburne Farms. Erected between 1889 and 1891, it was originally conceived for the ambitious horse-breeding operation of William Seward Webb. Webb, alongside his wife Lila Vanderbilt Webb, meticulously pieced together 33 individual farms beginning in 1886 to forge what would become a grand agricultural estate. Their vision, rooted in late 19th-century agricultural ambition, saw a thriving enterprise of purebred livestock and sophisticated farming practices. While the advent of the automobile eventually rendered horse breeding on such a scale economically unfeasible, signaling the end of that specific chapter, the magnificent barn itself stood firm, a stoic observer of changing times.
Today, Shelburne Farms has gracefully evolved, embracing a new, yet deeply connected, agricultural spirit. In 1972, Webb’s descendants, with foresight and a profound commitment to public good, established a nonprofit organization. This pioneering entity was founded on the transformative belief that education, particularly learning directly from the land, could serve as a powerful catalyst for building a more sustainable and equitable world. The organization eventually assumed ownership and stewardship of the entire property. What visitors experience today is a living laboratory: a thriving working dairy and cheesemaking operation that proudly produces its own award-winning cheeses, meticulously cultivated gardens, sprawling managed forests, and a comprehensive suite of educational programs that reach thousands annually, from schoolchildren to aspiring farmers. The farm’s dedication to sustainable practices and its role as an educational hub make it a uniquely fitting venue for a festival celebrating the very essence of Vermont’s agricultural bounty.
During our two-night stay at the historic Inn at Shelburne Farms, we had the distinct privilege of immersing ourselves fully in the property’s serene embrace. Each evening, as the sun dipped below the horizon, painting Lake Champlain in hues of gold and crimson, we savored cocktails on the Inn’s porch, the gentle lapping of waves a soothing counterpoint to quiet conversation. Dinners were enjoyed in the elegant, historic dining room, where local flavors were presented with refined artistry. Late-night rounds of billiards with fellow guests fostered an easy camaraderie, highlighting the Inn’s ability to feel both grand and intimately welcoming. It is effortlessly apparent why families return here generation after generation, drawn by the timeless charm and the profound sense of place. This deep-rooted connection to the land and its history renders Shelburne Farms an unparalleled and natural home for a festival dedicated to celebrating the passionate artisans who craft Vermont’s renowned cheeses.
The Festival’s Heartbeat: A Legacy of Vermont Cheesemaking
The Vermont Cheesemakers Festival, now in its illustrious 13th year, owes its genesis to the pioneering vision of Allison Hooper and Bob Reese, the revered founders of Vermont Creamery. Conceived as a grand celebration of Vermont cheesemaking, it initially marked Vermont Creamery’s 20th anniversary, a testament to two decades of dedication to artisanal dairy. The core premise, however, remains as wonderfully straightforward and effective today as it was at its inception: unite Vermont’s diverse array of cheesemakers under one roof, invite eager enthusiasts to partake in an unparalleled tasting experience, encourage discovery of novel flavors and textures, and ensure every guest departs with a cooler significantly heavier than when they arrived, brimming with newly acquired treasures.
The festival serves as a vibrant microcosm of Vermont’s celebrated artisan food scene. It’s a place where the rich agricultural heritage of the Green Mountain State converges with modern culinary innovation. Each booth represents not just a product, but a story – a farmer’s dedication, a cheesemaker’s artistry, and the unique terroir of Vermont’s valleys and hillsides. The energy is palpable, a joyful hum of shared passion for good food and the people who make it.
Culinary Discoveries: Highlights from the Festival Floor
Amidst the dizzying array of offerings, certain creations stood out, leaving an indelible impression and sparking conversations that lingered long after the last morsel was savored. These are the flavors and innovations we’re still contemplating:
Woodlawn Creamery – Rupert Reserve
Woodlawn Creamery, a name synonymous with quality, unveiled a new jewel in its crown: Rupert Reserve. This exquisite addition to their lineup is a direct result of the creamery’s enhanced capacity to age wheels for an extended period, allowing them to reach the coveted 12-month mark. The patience required for this maturation is unequivocally rewarded. Rupert Reserve presents a complex tapestry of flavors: deeply savory, robustly nutty, and boasting a concentrated richness that only develops with significant time in the cellar. It felt like a significant evolution for a cheese already held in high regard, signaling a promising new chapter for Woodlawn Creamery, and certainly one to eagerly anticipate.
Wilson Farm – Shiso Ice Cream
Wilson Farm, traditionally recognized for its bountiful herb cultivation, has recently embarked on an intriguing culinary detour into the realm of ice cream, with results that are every bit as captivating as one might hope. Their innovative new line, which boldly features unconventional flavors such as Spruce Tip and Golden Milk, is crafted using pristine milk sourced from a neighboring farm, thoughtfully infused with botanicals cultivated directly on their own land. The Shiso ice cream emerged as an undisputed standout. Its delicate, subtly herbal notes rendered it remarkably versatile, lending itself equally well to both sweet dessert applications and more adventurous savory pairings, a true testament to its nuanced character.
Vermont Farmstead Cheese – Fat Tire Alehouse Cheddar
Vermont Farmstead Cheese Co. masterfully merges the worlds of craft brewing and artisanal cheesemaking with its Fat Tire Alehouse Cheddar. This distinctive cheese is infused with New Belgium’s iconic Fat Tire Ale, creating a harmonious and approachable flavor profile. The company aptly describes it as an easygoing, well-balanced marriage of two classics, and this assessment proves remarkably accurate. While I wouldn’t typically categorize myself as a traditional beer cheese aficionado, this particular rendition offered a compelling and genuinely enjoyable experience, showcasing how thoughtful collaboration can elevate familiar flavors.
Small Oven Pastries – Macs & Cheese
In a delightful collaboration that pushed the boundaries of conventional flavor pairings, Small Oven Pastries teamed up with 5th Quarter Butcher + Provisions to create "Macs & Cheese," an inventive collection of macarons inspired by—and ingeniously incorporating—Vermont cheeses. My personal favorite, "Dark Side of the Blue," was a revelation. Crafted with rich dark chocolate, fragrant anise hyssop, and the celebrated Bayley Hazen Blue from Jasper Hill Farm, this combination might sound unorthodox on paper, yet it achieves an astonishing alchemy on the palate. The blue cheese introduces a crucial savory, salty edge that beautifully offsets the intensity of the dark chocolate, while the bright, herbaceous notes of anise hyssop provide an elegant counterpoint, preventing the macaron from becoming overly rich and creating a truly memorable, balanced indulgence.
von Trapp Farmstead – Mad River Blue
From the heart of Vermont’s picturesque Mad River Valley, von Trapp Farmstead presents Mad River Blue, a truly exceptional cow’s milk blue cheese. Crafted with their own certified organic milk, this cheese boasts a rich, fudgy texture that immediately captivates. Its distinct blue veining delivers a mild, approachable piquancy, harmoniously interwoven with deeper flavors of cocoa, succulent dried fruit, and a profound, satisfying umami. It’s a cheese that speaks of its origins, reflecting the pristine environment and the dedicated, organic farming practices of the von Trapp family.
Tucker Hill Cheese – Milestone
Tucker Hill Cheese stands out as one of Vermont’s newest and most exciting cheesemakers, and their creation, Milestone, immediately commanded attention and generated anticipation for their future endeavors. Their distinct interpretation of raclette is aged for two to three months, a period that allows it to develop a magnificent natural rind and a distinctly lactic character. This is precisely the kind of cheese that appeals to connoisseurs: velvety in texture, possessing a subtle yet engaging funk, and culminating in a remarkably clean, elegant finish. Milestone is a testament to the fresh talent emerging within Vermont’s vibrant cheese scene.
Shelburne Farms – Smoked Cheddar
Bringing the culinary experience full circle to our host, Shelburne Farms presented its own Smoked Cheddar, a perfect reflection of their dedication to both tradition and thoughtful enhancement. Their classic 6-month raw-milk cheddar undergoes a delicate transformation, cold-smoked over hickory for six hours. This meticulous process imbues the cheese with a subtle sweetness and just the right amount of smoky depth, complementing rather than overpowering the robust character of the cheddar underneath. Enjoying a slice of this exceptional cheese with a crisp glass of Chardonnay on the back porch of the Inn, overlooking the expansive beauty of Lake Champlain, was a moment of pure, unadulterated pleasure. The house-made apple preserves, with their bright, fruity tang, proved to be an absolutely perfect accompaniment, elevating the simple snack to a truly sublime experience.
Beyond Cheese: Artisanal Complements
The festival also showcased the broader spectrum of Vermont’s artisanal producers, demonstrating how diverse crafts intertwine to create a rich tapestry of local flavors.
High Drive Distillery – Gin
High Drive Distillery, situated on a family farm in northern Vermont, produces its exceptional gin with a deep commitment to local sourcing. Utilizing organic grains cultivated and milled directly on their property, their 93-proof gin is meticulously crafted around a complex botanical profile that includes juniper, red clover, dandelion root, and seven other carefully selected botanicals. The resulting spirit offers a remarkable botanical complexity without ever becoming overwhelming. It is notably smooth on the palate, delivering a bright, layered herbal character that speaks volumes of its artisanal origins and the pristine Vermont landscape from which it springs.
Big Picture Farm – Goat Milk Caramel Nibbles
Big Picture Farm has ingeniously cultivated an entire confectionery universe centered around the rich, creamy goodness of goat milk. Among their delightful creations, the Goat Milk Caramel Nibbles stand out as a perfect bite-sized expression of their philosophy. The Townshend farm is widely celebrated for its original goat milk caramels, and this core product is expertly reimagined in various forms, including luscious chocolate-covered versions, decadent truffles, and an array of other exquisite sweets, each showcasing the unique charm and versatility of goat’s milk.
The Broader Implications: Sustaining Vermont’s Artisan Future
The 13th Vermont Cheesemakers Festival at Shelburne Farms was far more than a mere gathering of food enthusiasts; it was a profound affirmation of Vermont’s enduring commitment to artisanal excellence and sustainable agriculture. The event serves as a critical economic driver, providing invaluable exposure and direct sales opportunities for numerous small-scale producers who are the backbone of the state’s rural economy. Beyond commerce, it fosters a vibrant community among cheesemakers, distillers, and confectioners, encouraging collaboration and the sharing of knowledge that propels innovation forward.
The festival’s choice of Shelburne Farms as its venue is itself an official response to the broader implications of sustainable living. The farm’s mission—to educate for a sustainable future—resonates deeply with the values of many artisan producers who prioritize ethical sourcing, environmental stewardship, and the preservation of traditional crafts. This synergy ensures that the festival not only celebrates current achievements but also champions a future where quality, integrity, and ecological responsibility remain paramount.
For consumers, the festival offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect directly with the creators of their food, fostering a deeper appreciation for the provenance and craftsmanship involved. It reinforces Vermont’s reputation as a premier culinary destination, drawing tourists and food lovers who seek authentic, high-quality experiences. The "heavy cooler" that attendees depart with symbolizes not just a collection of delicious products, but a tangible piece of Vermont’s rich agricultural heritage and its vibrant, innovative future. As the industry continues to evolve, events like this festival are vital for sustaining the unique character and economic vitality of Vermont’s artisan food landscape, ensuring that the Green Mountain State’s cheese crown continues to shine brightly for generations to come.
