By Alexandra Jones
August 27, 2026 | From: Summer 2026

A cheese professional’s sense of smell is their superpower. What happens when it disappears?

Main Facts: The Silent Crisis in the World of Aroma

For many, the nuanced world of artisanal cheese is a symphony of flavors and aromas, a complex interplay of milky sweetness, earthy notes, pungent tang, and nutty undertones. At the heart of appreciating and evaluating these intricate profiles lies the extraordinary sensory prowess of cheese professionals. Their highly trained noses and palates are not just tools; they are their most valuable assets, honed over years to discern subtle differences, identify defects, and articulate the sublime qualities that elevate a simple dairy product into a culinary masterpiece. But what happens when this crucial faculty, this very superpower, is abruptly or gradually stripped away?

This question has become increasingly pertinent in recent years, as a growing number of individuals, including esteemed figures within the cheese industry, confront the devastating realities of chemosensory disorders. Anosmia, the complete loss of smell, and ageusia, the inability to taste, along with their related conditions like hyposmia (decreased smell) and parosmia (distorted smell), represent more than just an inconvenience for these experts. They pose an existential threat to careers built on sensory discernment, profoundly impacting quality of life, mental well-being, and even personal safety. This article delves into the experiences of several cheese professionals who have faced this silent crisis, exploring the science behind these enigmatic disorders, the varied causes, and the often-arduous journey toward recovery and adaptation.

Chronology: A Judge’s Journey into Sensory Darkness

Tracey Johnson, a UK-born, British Columbia-based cheese educator and proprietor of Cheese Needs, a home cheesemaking supply company, had just reached a pinnacle in her distinguished career. In early 2025, she received an coveted invitation to judge at the prestigious British and Irish Cheese Awards. This was not merely an honor; it was a profound validation of her decades-long dedication to cultivating a sophisticated palate and an acute sense of smell. For Johnson, who also teaches courses at the Academy of Cheese, this milestone was a crucial stepping stone towards her ultimate professional aspiration: judging at the esteemed World Cheese Awards. The future of her sensory-driven career seemed bright, brimming with the rich aromas and complex tastes she so expertly navigated.

However, the trajectory of Johnson’s career—and indeed, her daily experience of the world—took an unforeseen and unsettling turn shortly after her return from the awards. A common cold, an ailment typically dismissed as a minor nuisance, settled in. Initially, it seemed unremarkable, but as the weeks stretched on, a deeply disturbing symptom persisted long after her other cold-related discomforts had faded. For six excruciating weeks, Johnson found herself adrift in a sensory void. “My taste was gone completely,” she recounts with a lingering sense of disbelief. “I could put chili in my mouth and I wouldn’t know it was there. I literally couldn’t taste anything.” Her sense of smell, equally vital to her profession and her enjoyment of life, had vanished in tandem.

This was Johnson’s unwelcome introduction to anosmia and ageusia, a dual assault on her most critical senses. The immediate impact was profound, extending far beyond her professional capabilities. Food, once a source of immense pleasure and a cornerstone of her identity, became a mere texture, devoid of its defining characteristics. The comforting scent of her home, the fresh air outside, the subtle aromas that subconsciously guide daily life—all dissolved into an indistinguishable blankness. Her professional goals, so recently within reach, now seemed impossibly distant. The very foundation of her expertise had been eroded, leaving her questioning the viability of her career. The psychological toll began to mount, intertwining with the physical reality of her sensory loss.

Supporting Data: The Enigma of Olfaction and its Vulnerabilities

The human sense of smell, often relegated to a secondary role compared to sight and hearing, is in fact one of our most ancient and evolutionarily significant senses. It plays an indispensable role in safeguarding our well-being—alerting us to dangers like smoke, gas leaks, or spoiled food—and profoundly shapes our perception of flavor. Yet, despite its criticality, olfaction remains the least understood of our senses, its intricate mechanisms only now beginning to yield to scientific inquiry after millennia of being largely overlooked.

The Integrated Symphony of Flavor
Dr. Hong Wang, a distinguished molecular biologist and member of the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia, elucidates the complex interplay between taste and smell. "Taste is sensed by the taste buds on the tongue and soft palate," she explains, identifying the five basic tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami. "Olfaction, however, is sensed by the olfactory sensory neurons up in the nose, then integrated in the brain together with taste as flavor." This integration is key: while the tongue detects basic tastes, it is the retronasal olfaction—the aroma molecules traveling from the mouth up into the nasal cavity—that provides the rich, complex tapestry of "flavor" we associate with food. Without smell, even the most exquisitely prepared dish is reduced to a shadow of its true self.

A Spectrum of Chemosensory Disorders
Anosmia and ageusia are just two points on a broader spectrum of chemosensory disorders. This spectrum includes:

• Hyposmia: A decreased sense of smell, where some odors can be detected, but their intensity is significantly reduced.
• Parosmia: A distorted sense of smell, where familiar odors are perceived as unpleasant, often metallic, burnt, or fecal.
• Phantosmia: The experience of smelling odors that are not actually present, often described as "phantom smells."

These conditions arise when the delicate olfactory nerves, located in the olfactory epithelium high within the nasal cavity, are damaged or disrupted. This damage can stem from a variety of sources, both acute and chronic.

The Shadow of COVID-19
The global pandemic of 2020 cast an unprecedented spotlight on chemosensory disorders. COVID-19 quickly became notorious for causing acute loss of smell and taste in a significant portion of infected individuals. While often temporary, for many, these losses lingered for months or even years, profoundly impacting their lives. A 2025 study published in JAMA Network Open provided critical insights, revealing that 80 percent of subjects who reported smell loss after COVID-19 infection exhibited hyposmia based on clinical tests, with a substantial 23 percent experiencing severe or total loss of smell. This widespread occurrence not only raised public awareness but also spurred renewed scientific interest and research into these long-neglected senses.

Steve Millard, a veteran of the food industry with a decade-long tenure as senior vice president of merchandising and operations at Murray’s Cheese, was among those profoundly affected by COVID-19. While working as an independent consultant, the virus completely eradicated his sense of smell for approximately six months. "Being in the food business for so long, I spent a lot of time sharpening my sense of smell and taste," Millard reflects. "To suddenly have that gone, I was like, ‘Is this the end of my career?’" Though now serving as general manager at Acme Smoked Fish, Millard estimates his sense of smell has recovered to only about 80 percent of its former capacity. He notes specific, lasting deficits: his ability to perceive the heat from spicy foods is entirely gone, and he occasionally experiences disorienting "phantom smells" like garlic and chicken broth. For him, a return to the nuanced world of cheese would necessitate a significant recalibration. "I would definitely have to recalibrate," he states. "I don’t think I would ever get back to where I was before."

Occupational Hazards and Traumatic Events

Beyond viral infections, a multitude of other factors can compromise the integrity of our chemosensory systems. Age, for instance, is a natural contributor; studies indicate that olfaction commonly begins to deteriorate as individuals enter their 70s. Neurological disorders such as Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s diseases frequently manifest early warning signs in the form of smell loss, highlighting the intricate connection between olfaction and brain health. Autoimmune diseases, medical treatments like chemotherapy, and even certain medications can also temporarily or permanently disrupt the delicate neural pathways responsible for transmitting sensory signals from the nose to the brain.

Perhaps one of the most abrupt and devastating causes is physical trauma. Linda Luke, a now-retired cheese broker, experienced this firsthand 25 years ago. The irony of the situation is poignant: she suffered a near-fatal allergic reaction while en route to the Summer Fancy Food Show, a pinnacle event for food professionals. During the episode, she fell unconscious, hitting her head on the sidewalk. This traumatic impact severed the delicate olfactory nerves that traverse a bony plate situated between the sinuses and the brain, resulting in irreversible damage.

Luke’s account underscores the profound and often underestimated role of smell in daily life. “I was absolutely not prepared for what happens when you lose your sense of smell. We take it for granted because it works on this subliminal level that we’re not even aware of,” she explains. The early years following her injury were marked by a deep sense of grief and isolation. "I felt like there was a scrim between me and the rest of the world. It had set me a couple of steps away from everybody else."

Despite the profound personal impact, Luke’s career had already been firmly established, built on her exceptional ability to convey the intrinsic value of fine cheese to her clientele. Lacking the ability to experience these elements herself, she innovatively adapted. She relied heavily on the sensory feedback and discerning palates of her friends and colleagues. Crucially, she pivoted her professional approach, shifting from direct flavor descriptions to a more narrative-driven strategy. “Instead of talking about the flavor profile, I would try to learn more about the history or what part of the manufacturing makes it unique,” she elaborates. This resourceful adaptation allowed her to maintain her professional efficacy, demonstrating remarkable resilience in the face of an immense challenge. “It could have really affected my job if I hadn’t figured out a way to do it.”

The Invisible Threat of the Cheese Cave
While not typically perceived as a hazardous occupation, working with cheese, particularly in aging environments, can present unique, long-term risks to olfactory health. Liz Steeves, a freelance cheesemonger in Connecticut, believes her sense of smell was significantly impacted by her years spent working in a cheese cave. "I believe my sense of smell was really affected from working in a cave system around high levels of ammonia for 32 hours a week," she recounts.

Ammonia is a natural byproduct of the cheesemaking and aging process. As beneficial microbes, crucial for developing the complex flavors and textures of artisanal cheese, break down fats and proteins, they release various waste products, sometimes including ammonia. While essential for certain flavor development, high concentrations of ammonia can be corrosive and damaging to the delicate tissues of the respiratory tract, including the olfactory epithelium. Proper ventilation is paramount in cheese caves, designed to introduce fresh air and safely remove these gases. This can range from simple door openings to sophisticated systems involving fans and specialized filters.

Steeves’ experience highlights the importance of effective ventilation. During her years meticulously flipping wheels and scrubbing rinds in a relatively low-tech aging cave, it is likely the space wasn’t adequately vented. The insidious nature of the damage meant it was not immediately apparent. Steeves only realized something had changed when she stopped noticing the biting, distinct aroma upon entering the cave. "When I go in the cave, it just feels like regular breathing," she says. "I realized that I wasn’t smelling things the way I used to."

While her sense of taste remains unaffected, Steeves’ sense of smell is markedly less sensitive. This was strikingly confirmed when she attempted to identify odors in a professional wine aroma kit and "got every answer wrong." Despite this diminished capacity, after over a decade in the industry, she remains confident in her overall abilities. However, she acknowledges that certain professional challenges, such as undertaking the American Cheese Society’s Certified Cheese Sensory Evaluator (CCSE) Exam, will now be considerably more difficult. Steeves views her condition with a pragmatic acceptance, akin to an athlete grappling with career-related injuries. "It’s like a professional sports star who has bad knees because they played football," she muses. "I got to work in a cheese cave, and that was a really cool experience that I miss dearly. If I had 100 percent lost my sense of smell, I probably wouldn’t look at it as fondly, but that’s where I sit with it now." Her story serves as a stark reminder of the often-unseen occupational hazards within specialized food professions.

Official Responses: Navigating the Path to Recovery and Support

For individuals like Tracey Johnson, the initial period of sensory loss was compounded by a lack of clear medical solutions. Six months after her illness, with her sense of smell still absent, Johnson’s mental health deteriorated significantly, fueling deep anxieties about her professional future. The CCSE Exam, once a clear objective, had to be deferred. Her journey through the medical system involved a series of specialist visits and diagnostic scans, initially offering a glimmer of hope for a simple surgical solution to unblock her sinuses. However, pre-surgery scans revealed her sinuses had cleared spontaneously, leading to a disheartening conclusion from her doctors: there was nothing further they could do.

The Promise of Regeneration and Training
Despite the medical community’s limited specific treatments, scientific understanding offers a pathway to hope. As Dr. Wang explains, "The olfactory system has the ability to regenerate, so a lot of times, we can recover from smell loss." This inherent neuroplasticity forms the basis for one of the most widely recommended self-help interventions: smell training. This method, which predates the COVID-19 pandemic but gained significant traction thereafter, involves repeatedly and deliberately smelling a set of strong, distinct odors. The goal is to stimulate the damaged olfactory nerves and encourage their regeneration and reconnection with the brain. While not a guaranteed cure, numerous individuals report significant improvements through consistent practice.

Beyond home-based training, clinical research is exploring various therapeutic avenues. Small clinical trials have shown promise for treatments using corticosteroids, which aim to reduce inflammation in the olfactory epithelium, and platelet-rich plasma (PRP), which harnesses growth factors from the patient’s own blood to promote tissue repair. However, it is crucial to note that, as of now, there are no specific treatments for anosmia or ageusia currently approved by the FDA. This underscores the ongoing challenge and the critical need for continued research in this field.

Tracey Johnson’s Proactive Recovery
Faced with medical ambiguity, Johnson took a proactive approach to her recovery. She leveraged her professional network and personal connections, as friends helped compile research on smell training, and colleagues connected her with others who had successfully regained some sensory ability after experiencing anosmia. Her regimen became a dedicated, thrice-daily ritual: she would intentionally smell pungent essential oils. She began with a core set—juniper, lemon, clove, and eucalyptus—rotating to a new selection of oils after a few months to introduce variety and stimulate different olfactory pathways.

Her doctor also recommended a suite of supplements designed to support neural recovery and overall well-being. These included Vitamin A, known for its role in neuroplasticity and nerve regrowth; a Vitamin B complex, crucial for general nerve health and the reduction of mucus; and Vitamin D, saffron, and magnesium, all recognized for their potential benefits to mental health. Johnson emphasizes the importance of seeking help early: “I would encourage anybody going through this to seek support before it gets to the point where you’re talking to your doctor about depression,” she advises. “You probably know somebody who’s gone through something similar, and they might have a roadmap that can help you get back to where you want to be.” Organizations like AbScent also provide invaluable resources and community support for those navigating smell loss.

Implications: Reclaiming a Sensory Life and Industry Adaptations

After approximately three months of her diligent essential oil regimen—nearly a year after the initial onset of her illness—Tracey Johnson believes she is three-quarters of the way back to her pre-illness sensory capacity. Her sense of smell continues to improve, she can once again identify the five basic tastes, and, perhaps most significantly for her, she has begun to enjoy cheese again. Her beloved Chällerhocker, a complex Swiss alpine cheese, was the first she truly recognized since her sensory loss, a moment of profound reconnection.

Her renewed sensory capabilities have rekindled her professional ambitions. Johnson has now committed to taking the CCSE Exam this July, a vital step toward resuming her place on the competitive judging circuit. Her journey underscores a profound realization: “I feel like having any of your senses is such a privilege,” Johnson reflects. “It’s probably one of the most basic things we take for granted.”

Adapting the Industry Landscape
The experiences of Johnson, Millard, Luke, and Steeves highlight broader implications for the specialized food industry, particularly in fields like cheese, wine, and coffee, where sensory evaluation is paramount.

1. Redefining Expertise: While direct sensory input is ideal, professionals are demonstrating remarkable adaptability. Linda Luke’s pivot to storytelling illustrates that expertise can be multifaceted, encompassing historical knowledge, technical understanding of production, and effective communication, even in the absence of personal sensory experience. This suggests a potential evolution in how "expert" is defined within these fields.

2. Importance of Support Networks: The role of colleagues and peer communities in providing research, emotional support, and alternative strategies cannot be overstated. As the prevalence of chemosensory disorders grows, particularly post-COVID, dedicated support groups and professional networks become increasingly vital.

3. Enhanced Awareness and Research: The surge in public awareness due to COVID-19 has undoubtedly catalyzed greater scientific interest and funding for research into smell and taste disorders. This increased attention promises a future with more effective diagnostic tools, treatment options, and preventative measures, potentially benefiting not just food professionals but the wider population.

   

4. Occupational Health Considerations: Liz Steeves’ experience with ammonia in cheese caves underscores the need for industries to review and optimize occupational health standards related to air quality and ventilation in specialized environments. Ensuring worker safety, including long-term sensory health, must be a priority.

5. Future of Sensory Training and Certification: For certifications like the CCSE, there may be discussions around how to accommodate individuals with partial or recovered sensory loss, perhaps through alternative assessment methods or acknowledging the multifaceted nature of professional competence. Smell training programs could become an integral part of continuing education for professionals.

The journey through anosmia and ageusia is often isolating and profoundly challenging. Yet, the resilience and ingenuity displayed by these cheese professionals offer a beacon of hope. Their stories are not just about loss, but about adaptation, recovery, and a renewed appreciation for the extraordinary privilege of our senses. As research continues and awareness grows, the silent crisis of scent loss may find more comprehensive solutions, allowing more professionals to reclaim their superpowers and continue enriching the world with their expertise.