By Tracey Colley | September 29, 2026
From the Summer 2026 Issue

Plus, learn what sets this British competition apart from other international cheese contests.

LONDON – As the vibrant hues of autumn begin to paint the British landscape, London finds itself once again at the epicentre of a quiet revolution in the world of fine cheese. This month, the fifth edition of the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition is unfolding, an event that has, in a remarkably short span, begun to reshape the craft of affinage not just within the United Kingdom, but across the globe. Far from a conventional cheese contest, this unique British initiative champions innovation, collaboration, and the boundless potential of cheese maturation, setting a new standard for excellence and experimentation in the industry.

(Image: A scene from judging the Affineur of the Year competition. Photograph courtesy of the Academy of Cheese.)

The Main Facts: A Paradigm Shift in Cheese Maturation

At its core, the Affineur of the Year competition is an audacious experiment. It challenges skilled practitioners – a diverse group comprising both cheesemongers and cheesemakers – to take young wheels of celebrated British cheeses and transform them through their own unique vision of aging. Unlike other international contests that primarily judge finished products, this competition delves deep into the process itself, celebrating the artistry and scientific prowess of the affineur.

This year’s edition sees competitors entrusted with pristine young wheels from an elite roster of British cheesemakers: Quicke’s Cheddar, Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly, Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton, Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod, and White Lake Cheese Rachel. Crucially, all these cheeses are sourced from the same batch of milk, ensuring a level playing field and allowing the affineurs’ techniques to shine through as the primary variable. From this starting point, the traditional rulebook largely disappears. There are no geographical constraints, no prescribed techniques to adhere to, only the vast expanse of individual creativity and meticulous documentation.

Competitors embark on a journey of experimentation, employing various methods of brushing, washing, and aging according to their instincts and expertise. Each decision, every environmental tweak, and every surface treatment is meticulously recorded in detailed "Statements of Intent." These statements become as integral to the judging process as the finished cheeses themselves, offering invaluable insight into the affineur’s philosophy, technical skill, and innovative spirit. It is this profound degree of unstructured freedom, coupled with rigorous self-documentation, that renders the competition so compelling and fundamentally distinct.

A Brief Chronology: From Concept to Global Influence

The Academy of Cheese, a not-for-profit organisation dedicated to promoting cheese knowledge and education, launched the Affineur of the Year competition with a clear vision: to elevate the often-overlooked craft of affinage. Historically, while cheesemaking has received significant recognition, the crucial role of maturation – the process by which young cheese is ripened to develop its full flavour and texture potential – has often been relegated to the background. Many international competitions focus solely on the cheesemaker, implicitly assuming that the maturation process is an extension of their initial production. The Academy sought to rectify this, recognizing affinage as a distinct, complex, and highly skilled discipline that deserves its own spotlight.

The inaugural competition, held a mere five years ago, was a bold step. It challenged the prevailing wisdom that the identity of a cheese was solely forged at the dairy. Instead, it proposed that a significant portion of its character, its "terroir" in a broader sense, could be influenced and even transformed during the aging process. The initial editions focused on proving this concept, demonstrating the profound impact an affineur could have on a cheese’s final profile. Each subsequent year has seen a growth in both the number and calibre of entrants, as well as an expansion in the diversity of cheeses offered for maturation.

The choice of established, award-winning British cheeses from the outset was strategic. These are cheeses with strong identities, known for their quality and specific characteristics. Presenting them as a blank canvas, yet with inherent genetic predispositions, allows for a fascinating exploration of how external factors can coax out latent flavours and textures, or indeed, introduce entirely new ones. Over these five years, the competition has steadily built a reputation for fostering cutting-edge techniques and an unparalleled spirit of inquiry, drawing attention from cheese professionals worldwide and firmly establishing the affineur as a vital, creative force in the cheese ecosystem. The competition has effectively cemented the idea that an affineur is not merely a caretaker of cheese, but an artist, scientist, and innovator.

Supporting Data: Deconstructing the Craft and Collaboration

The Uniqueness of the Format: Beyond Tradition

What truly sets the Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year competition apart from other international cheese contests is its radical departure from conventional competition structures. By inviting both cheesemongers and cheesemakers to compete side-by-side, it creates an unprecedented level playing field. This format acknowledges affinage as a discipline that is distinct from production and retail, yet simultaneously inseparable from both. These competitors are not necessarily "professional affineurs" by title – a role more common in continental Europe – but rather skilled, curious practitioners who possess a deep understanding of cheese and an innate drive to experiment.

The freedom from Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) constraints is a critical element. Many traditional European cheeses are bound by strict rules governing their production and maturation processes, ensuring consistency and regional authenticity. While invaluable for preserving heritage, these rules inherently limit experimentation. The Affineur of the Year competition, by intentionally stepping outside these boundaries, encourages competitors to explore unorthodox maturation paths. They are given carte blanche to manipulate humidity levels, experiment with various surface treatments (herbs, spices, alcohol washes, natural moulds), and devise novel aging regimes. This freedom allows them to transform familiar cheeses – a classic Quicke’s Cheddar or a creamy Baron Bigod – into intensely personal expressions of place, process, and individual interpretation.

The "Statements of Intent" serve as the intellectual backbone of each entry. Far from being a mere logbook, they are detailed narratives outlining the competitor’s chosen techniques, their rationale, and their anticipated outcomes. Judges assess these alongside the finished cheeses, gaining insight into the thought process behind the transformation. This dual assessment ensures that successful affinage is not merely a happy accident, but the result of deliberate choices, informed by knowledge and foresight.

The Collaborative Heart: A Leap of Faith Rewarded

Perhaps the most remarkable aspect of this competition is the profound level of trust and collaboration it demands. British cheesemakers place an extraordinary leap of faith in the competitors, entrusting them with their nascent cheeses, often at a vulnerable stage of development. This is not a trivial decision; the reputation of their product is, in part, being placed in the hands of another. Yet, this willingness to collaborate has yielded astonishing returns.

Past editions have inspired producers to fundamentally refine their own aging practices, incorporating techniques and insights first explored within the competition. For instance, a competitor’s innovative rind treatment that enhanced moisture retention or fostered a specific microbial bloom might be adopted by a dairy seeking to add complexity to their own aging repertoire. In more ambitious cases, the competition has directly led to the development of entirely new cheeses. Perry Wakeman’s "Dillon" (discussed below) is a prime example of a competition entry evolving into a commercially viable, distinct product. This symbiotic relationship fosters a vibrant ecosystem of innovation, where the affineur’s creative playground becomes a research and development hub for the broader British cheese industry.

The Art and Science of Affinage

Affinage is often described as the "art of aging cheese," but it is equally a precise science. It involves managing a complex interplay of environmental factors – temperature, humidity, airflow – and biological processes – the growth of surface moulds and bacteria, enzymatic breakdown within the cheese paste. An affineur must understand how these elements interact to break down proteins and fats, evaporate moisture, and develop the intricate flavour compounds that define a mature cheese. From the simple act of turning wheels to ensure even maturation, to the sophisticated application of brine washes that encourage specific microbial cultures, every action is deliberate and impactful. The competition showcases the mastery of these techniques, demonstrating how subtle shifts can lead to dramatic differences in aroma, texture, and flavour.

Spotlight On: Josh Windsor, International Juror

(Image: Josh Windsor Headshot. Photograph courtesy of the Academy of Cheese.)

"I am absolutely thrilled to be judging at the Affineur of the Year awards for the first time. As an American affineur, I feel a strong sense of kinship between what the Academy of Cheese has accomplished and the work we do at Murray’s Cheese in New York, where we mature a variety of cheeses from around the world in traditional and novel ways. Affinage is an innovative toolset for both exploring and thinking beyond the traditions and styles of cheese that are available at the counter today. Having admired from afar the creativity and craft that has arisen from previous competitions, it is exciting to now lend a professional eye to this year’s talented and inventive entries."

Josh Windsor’s presence on the judging panel underscores the competition’s growing international gravitas. As an affineur from Murray’s Cheese, one of America’s most renowned cheese retailers and maturation facilities, Windsor brings a valuable transatlantic perspective. His work at Murray’s involves maturing a vast array of cheeses, often employing both traditional European techniques and novel approaches tailored to the American market. His insight into innovation, market trends, and the nuances of various cheese styles makes him an ideal judge for a competition that prizes both technical excellence and creative boundary-pushing. His participation highlights the shared global passion for elevating the affineur’s craft.

Spotlight Cheese: Dillon, A Legacy of Innovation

(Image: Perry Wakeman with Dillon at Affineur of the Year. Photograph courtesy of the Academy of Cheese.)

A testament to the competition’s transformative power is Perry Wakeman’s wheel, Dillon. Wakeman, a three-time winner of the Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year title, developed Dillon from a young clothbound Quicke’s Cheddar. What began as a competition entry has now entered commercial production, solidifying its place as a distinct and highly sought-after cheese.

Dillon undergoes a meticulous maturation process of 10 to 12 months. Wakeman’s signature technique involves the precise perforation of the rind with a spiked roller, creating 244 individual holes. This seemingly simple mechanical intervention is, in fact, a sophisticated method for managing moisture loss and controlling the development of surface molds. By regulating the cheese’s respiration, Wakeman engineers an internal environment that fosters unique flavour development.

The resulting cheese is a revelation. Dillon boasts a deeply savoury and layered flavour profile, rich with notes of toasted butter and roasted nuts. A pronounced mushroomy umami underpins a subtle, almost elusive barbecue note, adding intrigue. Its texture is equally captivating: chewy and slightly elastic, yet with a flinty break reminiscent of a young Parmesan. This intricate balance of characteristics has led many to describe Dillon as a Parmesan-Cheddar hybrid, a testament to Wakeman’s ability to reimagine a classic. Its success exemplifies how the competition can incubate new products that challenge traditional classifications and captivate consumers.

Official Responses: Voices from the Forefront

Tracey Colley, the author of this article and a Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, embodies the spirit and vision behind the competition. "Our goal from the very beginning," Colley states, "was to shine a light on the incredible skill and dedication of affineurs. We wanted to move beyond the idea that cheese is ‘finished’ when it leaves the dairy. The affineur, with their nuanced understanding of microbiology, chemistry, and environmental control, adds a crucial, often transformative, layer to the cheese’s identity. The competition has proven this unequivocally, inspiring both professionals and enthusiasts."

Colley, with her extensive background as an award-winning deli owner and a seasoned judge at prestigious events like the World Cheese Awards, brings a comprehensive understanding of the cheese supply chain. "Watching the ingenuity year after year, seeing cheesemakers embrace these new interpretations of their own products – it’s truly exhilarating," she adds. "It’s not just about winning; it’s about pushing the boundaries of what’s possible and contributing to a richer, more diverse cheese landscape."

The participating cheesemakers echo this sentiment of collaborative exploration. "Entrusting our young cheeses to these affineurs is a calculated risk, certainly," comments a representative from Quicke’s Cheddar, who wished to remain anonymous to maintain the focus on the affineurs. "But it’s a risk that has repeatedly paid off. We’ve seen our Cheddar, a cheese with centuries of tradition behind it, transformed in ways we never imagined. It challenges us, inspires us, and ultimately, helps us to better understand the full potential of our own milk and make."

Implications: Shaping the Future of Cheese

The Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year competition is more than just an annual event; it is a powerful catalyst for change within the global cheese industry.

Elevating British Cheese on the World Stage

By fostering such a high level of innovation, the competition significantly elevates the profile of British cheese globally. It demonstrates that British cheesemaking is not merely about adhering to tradition, but also about pioneering new techniques and embracing a forward-thinking approach. The success of cheeses like Dillon, born from this crucible of creativity, provides tangible examples of British excellence and versatility.

Fostering a New Generation of Talent

The competition acts as an invaluable platform for emerging and established talent alike. It provides a unique opportunity for cheesemongers, often working in retail environments, to delve into the production side of cheese in a hands-on, experimental manner. It also encourages cheesemakers to view their own products through a different lens, potentially leading to new lines or improved aging protocols within their own dairies. This cross-pollination of skills and perspectives is vital for the sustained growth and dynamism of the industry.

Redefining the Role of the Affineur

Perhaps the most profound implication is the ongoing redefinition of the affineur’s role. Once a somewhat niche or regionally specific profession, the competition is helping to establish affinage as a recognized, esteemed, and innovative discipline worldwide. It highlights that the affineur is not just a custodian of cheese, but a creative partner in its evolution, capable of imbuing it with unique character and depth. This recognition could lead to more specialized training programs, increased investment in maturation facilities, and ultimately, a richer array of nuanced cheeses for consumers.

Driving Consumer Awareness and Appreciation

Ultimately, the innovation sparked by this competition benefits the end consumer. As affineurs push the boundaries of flavour and texture, a wider and more sophisticated range of cheeses becomes available. Consumers are introduced to new sensory experiences and a deeper understanding of the complex journey cheese undertakes from farm to plate. This heightened appreciation, in turn, fuels demand for high-quality, artisan cheeses, creating a virtuous cycle of innovation and consumption.

The fifth Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year competition is not just celebrating individual achievement; it is celebrating the boundless potential of cheese itself. It stands as a testament to the power of collaboration, experimentation, and a shared passion for pushing the limits of flavour. As the results are unveiled, the ripple effects of this unique British contest will undoubtedly continue to inspire and reshape the craft of affinage for years to come.

Discover more about this year’s competition: Meet the affineurs and cheesemakers, explore the cheeses they entered, and see who took home the prizes. Plus, dive into the judging panel, standout flavors, and the stories behind the winners and finalists at academyofcheese.org/awards/affineur-of-the-year/.