By Leslie Damaso
April 27, 2026
This article is from: Spring 2026

In Wisconsin’s ancient Driftless Area, a landscape uniquely untouched by glaciers, the very earth itself has profoundly shaped not only the exquisite flavor profiles of its artisan cheeses but also the lives, cherished traditions, and growing global influence of the dedicated individuals who craft them.

The Driftless Area of Wisconsin is a robust landscape of rolling hills, spring-fed streams, and limestone bluffs that has become a quiet epicenter of American artisan cheesemaking. Its unique topography, a result of having evaded the scouring forces of the last Ice Age, offers a distinct terroir that is imprinted on every wheel of cheese produced here. This is a region where the land dictates the craft, and the craft, in turn, defines the community.

Almost two decades ago, amidst the flurry of viewing apartments in Madison, Wisconsin, I found myself captivated by a simple pleasure: a peach Melba ice cream from Babcock Dairy Store at the University of Wisconsin–Madison Memorial Union. Seated on the sun-drenched terrace, watching an artist paint an idyllic summer scene on Lake Mendota, I pondered how I could have overlooked such a gem for so long. At the time, I didn’t fully grasp the immense historical significance of the Babcock name, a thread woven into nearly every fiber of Wisconsin’s storied dairy history. Soon after, I became a devoted regular at the bustling Dane County Farmers’ Market. It was there that I first encountered Brunkow Cheese’s Brun-uusto—caramelized cubes of warm cheese, served hot off a griddle, drawing an unyielding crowd with its irresistible aroma and unique texture.

Years later, serendipity placed me around the corner from Joe Burns, the artisan behind that very cheese. Each week, I would walk to his house to teach piano lessons to his children, while he meticulously worked on a new Trappist-style cheese. He named it Pavé Henri, a nod to his son who, with childlike honesty, had begged him to discontinue its production because he disliked the distinctive aroma his father carried home from the creamery. This anecdote, a testament to the immersive and often pungent reality of cheesemaking, perfectly encapsulates the profound presence of cheese in the Driftless. Here, cheese is not merely a product; it is an intrinsic part of life, conversation, and family legacy.

The Land That Refused to Flatten: A Geological Marvel

The defining characteristic of the Driftless Area lies in its geological anomaly. During the last Ice Age, as massive continental glaciers bulldozed and flattened vast swathes of the upper Midwest, an inexplicable oversight left this rough, oval-shaped region untouched. Spanning parts of Southeast Minnesota, Northeast Iowa, Northwest Illinois, and Southwest Wisconsin, this absence of glacial drift—the sediments deposited by glaciers—is precisely why the region earned its evocative name, "Driftless." It stands as the only unglaciated spot in the world, completely surrounded by land meticulously sculpted and leveled by ice.

This geological island, covering approximately 24,000 square miles, rises prominently with its signature rolling hills, deeply carved valleys, winding rivers, countless spring-fed streams, and dramatic rock outcroppings. The exposed striations on these bluffs tell a silent story, displaying the history of various ancient geological events, dating back to the Paleozoic Era. Trapped between these ancient valleys is a fine, fertile, windblown soil known as loess. Rivers and streams have further eroded the landscape, revealing sedimentary rock composed primarily of Ordovician dolomite, highly porous limestone, sandstone, and shale. This unique geological foundation, particularly the abundant limestone, is the bedrock of the Driftless’s exceptional terroir.

The land itself is a tapestry of diverse ecosystems: dense forests, expansive prairies, majestic oak savannas, vibrant wetlands, and nutrient-rich grasslands. This ecological diversity supports a multitude of animal and prehistoric plant species, uniquely adapted to the region’s distinct microclimates. It is this very ecosystem that feeds the dairy animals, enriching their milk with the subtle flavors of the land.

"All of the cheesemakers in the Driftless region know that the limestone in the area that’s filtering the water for our animals and our crops has a huge impact on the flavor of our cheese," explains Tony Hook, co-founder of Hook’s Cheese Company in Mineral Point. A venerable cheesemaker for over five decades, Hook, alongside his wife Julie, transformed their operation from commodity production in 1976 into one of Wisconsin’s most distinguished artisan creameries. His long-aged cheddars and small-batch specialty cheeses are renowned for their timeless quality, a testament to the consistent, high-quality milk sourced from the same dedicated dairy farms for over 46 years. The limestone-filtered water, rich in calcium and other minerals, contributes directly to the health of the animals, the lushness of the pastures, and ultimately, the complex mineral notes found in the cheeses.

The inherent beauty of this place, with its serene valleys and verdant bluffs, can be deceptively tranquil. The Driftless is not a soft landscape; it demands respect and resilience from those who inhabit it. Living here urges a person to slow down, to stand still, and to observe with all senses: to listen to the whispers of the wind through the valleys, to accept the immutable rhythms of nature, and to become one with its unhurried pace. Each day, with an ingrained sense of courage, residents often stick their hands out the door—like human thermometers—to gauge the weather and decide how to dress for the unpredictable conditions. Even then, preparedness is key; emergency supplies are routinely kept in cars, and it’s not uncommon for folks to have at least one trusted friend in every neighboring town, fostering a strong sense of community and mutual support that is as integral to the region as its rolling hills.

A Legacy of Migration and Innovation: How Cheesemakers Came—and Stayed

The trajectory of Wisconsin’s economy, from a primary focus on wheat to its celebrated status as America’s Dairyland, was significantly catalyzed by waves of cultural migration. In the late 1800s, a substantial population of Swiss immigrants, seeking new opportunities and familiar landscapes, moved to Southern Wisconsin. They affectionately nicknamed the areas encompassing Dane, Rock, Iowa, and Lafayette counties "Swissconsin." The region’s hilly topography, verdant pastures, and abundant spring water bore a striking resemblance to their Alpine homeland, making it an ideal location for establishing small dairy farms, raising cattle, and, crucially, continuing their cherished tradition of cheesemaking. Driven by a desire to preserve their rich cultural heritage and culinary practices, these immigrants meticulously recreated the foods they had grown up eating, laying the foundation for Wisconsin’s dairy future.

Initially, cheesemaking was largely confined to the domestic sphere, considered "women’s work"—a vital method of food preservation and a means to nourish families through the harsh Midwestern winters. However, this soon began to change. The burgeoning dairy industry saw its first significant factory operations emerge. One of the earliest cheese factories in the Driftless Area, a limburger operation established by Nickolaus Gerber in New Glarus, opened its doors in 1868. This marked a pivotal shift towards commercial production. Following the Swiss, immigrants from Germany, Scandinavia, and Italy also began to settle in the region, each bringing their distinct cheesemaking traditions and contributing to the diverse tapestry of Wisconsin’s dairy landscape.

This era of growth was bolstered by crucial scientific advancements. The steady increase in dairy production, coupled with improved breeding and husbandry practices, led to higher standards of milk quality. Concurrently, innovations in the architecture and design of dairy farms facilitated more efficient practices in milking, processing, and distribution. A landmark moment arrived in 1890 at the University of Wisconsin, when Stephen Moulton Babcock, a pioneering agricultural chemist, developed a groundbreaking method to accurately test the butterfat content in milk. The "Babcock Test" revolutionized the dairy industry, enabling fair pricing for farmers based on milk quality and driving improvements in herd genetics.

By the turn of the century, the University of Wisconsin–Madison had established comprehensive cheesemaking courses, attracting aspiring cheesemakers from across the state and beyond, further professionalizing the craft. This commitment to education culminated in 1986 with the establishment of the Wisconsin Master Cheesemaker Program—the only program of its kind in the United States. This rigorous, multi-year certification program ensures that Wisconsin cheesemakers are not only masters of their craft but also stewards of tradition and innovation, continually elevating the quality and diversity of the state’s cheese offerings.

Cheesemaking in the Driftless Today: A Global Powerhouse

Today, America’s Dairyland is an economic titan, annually producing more than 3.5 billion pounds of cheese across an astonishing array of over 600 distinct varieties. A staggering 90 percent of Wisconsin’s milk is transformed into cheese, and an equally impressive 90 percent of the state’s cheese production is exported, reaching markets across the country and around the globe. This robust industry generates an estimated $52 billion in economic impact, supporting countless jobs and bolstering rural communities.

Within this vast and dynamic ecosystem, few figures loom as large or cast as long a shadow as Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese in La Valle. With a career spanning six decades, Cook has been instrumental in shaping the state’s modern artisan identity. A true pioneer of American artisanal cheesemaking and a steadfast steward of Driftless traditions, Cook has meticulously built Carr Valley into a nationally and internationally renowned creamery, celebrated for its innovative and award-winning cheeses. "Producing cheese in the Driftless gives it a distinctive flavor," he asserts, "with more fruity or floral notes that intensify as the cheese ages." This deep connection to place, or terroir, is a recurring theme among Driftless cheesemakers.

Catherine Young of Capri Cheese in Blue River echoes this sentiment with a poetic observation: "The limestone is made of ancient beaches—specifically shells. There is calcium there. And in between the grains of sand, there’s calcium. There’s something about the calcium that flavors the milk and used to flavor the cultures produced here—sweet soil." This vivid description underscores the profound, almost mystical, link between the geological history of the Driftless and the unique characteristics of its dairy products. The mineral-rich soil and water, filtered through ancient limestone, imbue the milk with a subtle complexity that is the true signature of the region.

Drive approximately 40 miles south of Carr Valley, and you’ll find Andy Hatch at Uplands Cheese in Dodgeville, a prime example of a farmstead operation that meticulously adheres to old-world practices. The farm boasts a deep well, strategically located just a few miles from the Wisconsin River, tapping into a water table composed almost entirely of pure limestone. This mineral-rich water is ideal for maintaining the exceptional health of their animals. Each of the 150 cows in Hatch’s cherished herd drinks approximately 40 gallons of this calcium-laden water daily, contributing significantly to the milk’s mineral content.

Hatch acknowledges the complexity of precisely pinpointing how this specific water profile affects the final flavor of the cheese. He explains that the animals’ diet, rich in the diverse perennial plants of their pastures, plays an equally crucial role. These pastures are a botanical wonderland, featuring a mix of orchard and brome grass, fescues, timothy, clovers, alfalfa, chicory, plantain, dandelions, lambsquarters, burdock, milkweed, thistles, and many more. Each of these plants possesses varied root systems, absorbing different minerals from different depths of the unique Driftless soil. Some roots grow just a few inches below the surface, while others, such as alfalfa and chicory, are deeply rooted, reaching down as much as 7 feet. Hatch’s practice of rotational grazing allows the herd to consume a diverse array of grasses and forages, ensuring a balanced diet. This method also enriches the soil by evenly spreading rich organic matter and allowing the plants ample time to regrow, promoting long-term pasture health. Even the less desirable thistles serve a purpose, proving exceptional at attracting an array of pollinators, including the critically endangered rusty patched bumble bee, highlighting the farm’s commitment to ecological balance.

Hatch, with a deliberate focus on seasonal expression, crafts only two distinct cheeses: Pleasant Ridge Reserve, an exquisite aged Alpine-style cheese produced exclusively when the cows are feasting on fresh, vibrant pasture grass; and Rush Creek Reserve, a luscious, custardy, raw-milk cheese, artfully wrapped in spruce bark, made when the cows transition to a diet of hay. Depending on when a particular wheel is crafted, its flavor profile will inherently reflect the season and the distinct terroir of the Driftless region, offering a true taste of its changing landscape.

The Uplands Effect: Global Connections and Local Purpose

The profound sense of purpose and connection fostered in the Driftless Area doesn’t remain contained within its rolling hills; it resonates outward, often reaching far beyond expected horizons. Mary Florer-Tolan, a dedicated cheesemonger who relocated to the area less than a year ago from Oklahoma, by way of California, found her calling here. After gaining invaluable experience working with Andy Hatch at Uplands Cheese, she acquired Over the Moon Cheese, a specialized business that meticulously delivers artisanal cheeses directly to chefs and retailers. "As corny as it is," Florer-Tolan admits with a smile, "I feel like I finally found my calling. I like being behind the scenes, helping cheesemakers by promoting their incredible products, assisting chefs in choosing the perfect cheeses for their menus, and suggesting exciting new cheeses to retailers. Beyond the satisfaction of doing a solid day’s work, knowing that the end result of my labor is someone’s joy because they’re eating a bite of cheese that my friends made—that really does it for me." Her story exemplifies the thriving entrepreneurial spirit and deep collaborative networks that define the Driftless cheese community.

This local passion achieved international recognition in November 2025, when Hanna Lee, a talented cheesemaker who was working at Uplands at the time, competed in the prestigious Young Cheesemonger of the Year contest at the World Cheese Awards in Switzerland. Molly Browne, who accompanied Lee as a representative for Dairy Farmers of Wisconsin’s Cheese State University program, vividly recalls the electric excitement when Lee was announced as the winner. "She was acknowledged onstage at several events," Browne recounts, "prompting [the announcers] to repeatedly say ‘Wisconsin’ in front of the whole world, many times over. It was thrilling, and underpinning all of it was the undeniable connection to the Driftless via Uplands."

The World Cheese Awards proved to be a nexus of international connection. Browne continues, "As we continued to experience the World Cheese Awards, we crossed paths with Pius Hitz, the cheesemaker who won the overall contest, and Hanna graciously gifted him a piece of Pleasant Ridge Reserve." This gesture of camaraderie underscored the global community of cheesemakers. "Later, we met Ray Siebrits, a South African cheesemaker who had previously spent a season working at Uplands. That was a truly full circle moment that allowed me to see the international connections that had been fostered through the region, demonstrating how the Driftless has become a training ground and an inspiration for cheesemakers worldwide." These interactions underscore the powerful ripple effect of the Driftless, extending its influence far beyond its geographical boundaries.

Implications and the Enduring Spirit of the Driftless

The narrative of cheesemaking in the Driftless Area is more than just a story of delicious food; it’s a testament to the resilience of tradition, the power of community, and the profound influence of a unique landscape. The "Uplands Effect" and Hanna Lee’s international triumph highlight the global recognition now bestowed upon Driftless cheeses, boosting the region’s reputation and opening new avenues for market access. This success, however, is deeply rooted in a commitment to environmental stewardship. Practices like rotational grazing, as demonstrated at Uplands, are not merely about producing better milk; they are integral to land conservation, fostering biodiversity, and ensuring sustainable agriculture for future generations in a region increasingly aware of ecological challenges like climate change.

To live in the Driftless is to be perpetually influenced and inspired by the land and the diverse people who inhabit it with unwavering purpose and passion. This includes not only the renowned cheesemakers but also the grass farmers, the skilled stonemasons, the dedicated vegetable and meat farmers, the diligent grain farmers, the innovative beer and winemakers, the vibrant artists, artisans, musicians, and talented chefs. Each individual, in their unique way, actively cares for the land, capturing and preserving the ephemeral moments in their daily work.

The Driftless represents a unique intersection of history, geology, culture, and culinary excellence. It is a place where challenges—from the unpredictable weather to the demanding nature of farming—are met with an enduring spirit of resilience. The strong community bonds, often celebrated through informal gatherings like the potlucks the author alludes to, are a cornerstone of this lifestyle. To witness the pride, joy, and resilience woven into everyday living, to endure the seasons together, and to share and celebrate with one another—it’s a life worthy of every breath. It is a life deeply connected to the land, producing cheeses that carry the very essence of this extraordinary place.

Leslie Damaso
Leslie Damaso is a Filipino-American singer, visual artist, poet, writer, teacher and business owner at Buttonhill Music Studio in the historic community in Mineral Point.