CHICAGO, IL – In the competitive landscape of Chicago’s high-end dining scene, few neighborhoods offer the blend of historic charm and modern sophistication found in Old Town. At the heart of this district, SHĀO, the intimate omakase counter that has spent the last twelve months redefining Japanese fine dining in the city, is celebrating its first anniversary. To mark this milestone, Executive Chef Mari Katsumura has announced the simultaneous debut of two distinct tasting experiences: "Shōjin," a groundbreaking plant-based omakase rooted in ancient Buddhist tradition, and "Summer Menu Vol. 4," the latest iteration of the restaurant’s acclaimed seasonal series.

The dual launch represents a significant moment for SHĀO, signaling its transition from a newcomer to an established pillar of the city’s culinary community. By offering two parallel paths—one focusing on the spiritual restraint of temple-style cooking and the other on the lush, French-influenced abundance of the summer harvest—Katsumura is challenging the traditional boundaries of the omakase format.

Main Facts: A Tale of Two Menus

The announcement from SHĀO centers on a bold expansion of its culinary identity. While most omakase counters focus strictly on the progression of nigiri and seasonal fish, SHĀO is diversifying its portfolio to cater to an increasingly sophisticated palate that demands both ethical consideration and technical excellence.

The Shōjin Experience

The first of the new offerings, Shōjin, is an entirely plant-based omakase. It draws inspiration from Shōjin Ryōri, the traditional dining style of Japanese Buddhist monks which dates back over a millennium. This menu is not merely a "vegan alternative" to the standard offering; it is a meticulously crafted exploration of mindfulness and gratitude. The Shōjin menu emphasizes the "Rule of Five," a cornerstone of Japanese culinary philosophy that seeks to balance five colors (green, yellow, red, black, and white), five tastes (sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami), and five preparation methods (raw, stewed, grilled, steamed, and fried).

Summer Menu Vol. 4

Parallel to the Shōjin launch is Summer Menu Vol. 4. This menu serves as a "Summer Symphony," utilizing the peak of the Midwestern harvest alongside premium seafood imports. This volume is particularly personal for Chef Katsumura, as it incorporates French techniques and sensibilities—a nod to her upbringing and her family’s legendary status in the Chicago restaurant world. The menu features a high-wire act of balancing local stone fruits, heirloom tomatoes, and sweet corn with the precision of Japanese knife work and seasoning.

Both menus are scheduled to go live on August 12, with reservations being handled through the restaurant’s proprietary channels and OpenTable.

Chronology: From Legacy to Innovation

To understand the significance of these new menus, one must look at the trajectory of SHĀO and the woman behind the counter.

The Katsumura Legacy

Executive Chef Mari Katsumura is not a stranger to the pressures of the Chicago dining scene. She is the daughter of the late Yoshi Katsumura, the visionary behind Yoshi’s Café, which for decades was a cornerstone of Lakeview’s dining culture. Yoshi Katsumura was a pioneer in "East-meets-West" cuisine, blending classic French training with Japanese ingredients long before it became a global trend.

Mari Katsumura’s journey included stints at world-renowned institutions like Grace and Blackbird, where she honed a style characterized by aesthetic precision and deep flavor profiles. When SHĀO opened its doors in Old Town a year ago, it was seen as the next chapter of this family legacy—a space where Mari could finally distill her diverse influences into a focused, intimate setting.

The First Year of SHĀO

Since its opening, SHĀO has moved through three distinct "Volumes" of its tasting menu.

• Vol. 1 & 2: Established the restaurant’s signature style, focusing on the quality of rice (shari) and the sourcing of fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu Market.
• Vol. 3: Began to push the boundaries of the traditional omakase, introducing more cooked courses and experimental flavor pairings.
• The Transition to Vol. 4: As the one-year anniversary approached, the decision was made to not only refresh the seasonal menu but to launch a permanent plant-based counterpart, reflecting a year of feedback from a clientele that increasingly values vegetable-forward fine dining.

Supporting Data: The Philosophy of the "Rule of Five"

The technical backbone of the Shōjin menu is the Goshiki, Gommī, Gōhō (Five Colors, Five Flavors, Five Methods). This is not just a stylistic choice but a nutritional and aesthetic framework designed to ensure the diner leaves feeling both satisfied and physically balanced.

Technical Breakdown of the Shōjin Menu:

1. The Colors: By ensuring every meal contains red (often tomatoes or carrots), yellow (corn or squash), green (leafy greens or beans), black (seaweed or mushrooms), and white (tofu or rice), the chef ensures a wide spectrum of vitamins and minerals.
2. The Flavors: The balance of bitter and sour notes against the more common sweet and salty profiles is what gives Shōjin Ryōri its "depth." In Katsumura’s hands, this might manifest in the use of fermented plums (umeboshi) or bitter melon to provide a counterpoint to the natural sugars of summer corn.
3. The Methods: The menu avoids the monotony of many vegan offerings by varying textures. A single meal might include the crunch of a tempura-fried mountain vegetable, the silkiness of steamed sesame tofu (goma-dofu), and the chew of simmered grains.

The Summer Harvest Impact:

Data from local Midwestern agricultural reports suggest that the current season has provided an exceptional yield for stone fruits and sweet corn due to specific rainfall patterns in early June. This abundance is reflected in Menu Vol. 4, where Katsumura utilizes these ingredients to provide a "sense of place." By pairing local Illinois corn with Japanese scallops or heirloom tomatoes with bluefin tuna, the restaurant bridges the 6,000-mile gap between the Midwest and the Pacific.

Official Responses: Insights from Chef Katsumura

In a statement regarding the launch, Chef Katsumura emphasized that the two menus, while different in their ingredient lists, are born from a singular creative impulse.

"These menus are very different in ingredients, but they come from the same place," Katsumura explained. "Whether working with pristine seafood or a single vegetable at its peak, my goal is always to honor the ingredient, respect the season, and create a meal that feels balanced from beginning to end."

Speaking specifically on the challenge of the Shōjin menu, Katsumura noted that the restrictions of veganism actually fuel her creativity rather than hinder it.

"Shōjin Ryōri has always fascinated me because the limitation is the point," she said. "You take away meat, you take away fish, and what’s left has to be exact. That kind of discipline is its own kind of creativity. For me, the more interesting challenge isn’t making plants taste like meat. It’s making plants taste like themselves, at their best."

Management at SHĀO added that the introduction of the Shōjin menu is a response to a growing trend in the luxury dining sector where "wellness" and "sustainability" are becoming as important to the guest as "rarity" and "opulence."

Implications: A Shift in Chicago’s Dining Landscape

The launch of these two menus at SHĀO carries several broader implications for the restaurant industry and the Chicago market.

1. The Normalization of High-End Vegan Omakase

Historically, omakase (meaning "I leave it to you") has been synonymous with raw fish. By elevating a plant-based menu to the same status and price point as a traditional seafood menu, SHĀO is helping to normalize veganism within the "ultra-premium" dining tier. This follows a global trend seen in cities like Tokyo and New York, where Michelin-starred chefs are increasingly turning to vegetables as the ultimate frontier of luxury.

2. The French-Japanese Synthesis

Katsumura’s insistence on incorporating French technique into Vol. 4 suggests a move away from "pure" traditionalism toward a more "author-driven" omakase. As the Chicago market becomes saturated with sushi counters, restaurants that offer a unique, chef-driven narrative—such as Katsumura’s tribute to her father’s French-Japanese legacy—are more likely to maintain long-term relevance.

3. Economic Resilience in Old Town

The fact that SHĀO is expanding its offerings at the one-year mark is a positive indicator for the Old Town commercial corridor. While some parts of the city have struggled with post-pandemic recovery, the high-end dining sector in Old Town appears robust, driven by a local population with high disposable income and a desire for experiential dining.

4. Setting a New Standard for Seasonal Iteration

By labeling her menus as "Volumes," Katsumura creates a sense of "collectability" for her diners. Regulars are encouraged to return to see how the "story" of SHĀO evolves. The simultaneous launch of Vol. 4 and Shōjin suggests that the restaurant is not just iterating, but expanding its universe, offering two different "books" for the diner to read.

As August 12 approaches, the culinary community will be watching closely. SHĀO’s attempt to bridge the gap between a 1,000-year-old monk’s diet and the modern luxury of a Chicago summer harvest is a bold experiment in balance—one that may well define the next year of the restaurant’s journey.