BUENOS AIRES, Argentina – In the bustling culinary landscape of Buenos Aires, a city globally celebrated for its robust meat culture and traditional dairy, a quiet revolution is fermenting. This week, during a specialized workshop, an instructor encountered a plant-based creation so extraordinary, it has challenged prevailing notions of vegan alternatives: an almond-based cheese possessing a depth of flavor and a texture so authentic, it was immediately hailed as the finest vegan cheese ever tasted. This remarkable discovery was the brainchild of Nico Salguero, a student whose innovative spirit and meticulous approach have potentially set a new benchmark for the plant-based food industry.

The revelation came as a delightful surprise. Argentina, with its iconic asado and dairy-rich cuisine, might seem an unlikely incubator for such a groundbreaking vegan product. Yet, it was here, within the context of a fermentation workshop, that Salguero unveiled his creation. The cheese, described by the instructor as possessing an unparalleled "cheesiest" quality, immediately sparked curiosity. Its complexity, creamy texture, and savory notes transcended the often-criticized limitations of many vegan cheeses, which frequently fall short in replicating the intricate profiles of their dairy counterparts.

Salguero, displaying the generosity characteristic of true innovators, graciously detailed his elaborate process. What emerged was not merely a recipe but a sophisticated, multi-stage methodology that blends ancient fermentation techniques with modern plant-based ingenuity. His approach underscores a growing trend in gastronomy where plant-based alternatives are moving beyond simple imitation to forge their own distinct, gourmet identity. This article delves into the main facts surrounding this culinary breakthrough, chronicles Salguero’s intricate cheesemaking process, provides supporting data on the science behind each step, and explores the broader implications for the future of food.

A Masterclass in Vegan Fermentation: Deconstructing Nico Salguero’s Process

Nico Salguero’s vegan cheese is a testament to patience, precision, and a deep understanding of microbial alchemy. His method is a fascinating blend of traditional dairy cheesemaking principles adapted for plant-based ingredients, resulting in a product that challenges the sensory expectations of even the most discerning palates. The process, spanning several months, is a carefully orchestrated sequence of biological transformations and environmental controls, each contributing to the cheese’s exceptional character.

An accompanying image shows the raw, newly formed vegan cheese wheels, already displaying a promising texture and shape, awaiting the next stages of dehydration and aging.

Step 1: The Foundation – Soaking and Sprouting Almonds

The journey begins not with milk, but with raw almonds, meticulously prepared to unlock their full potential.

• Soak Almonds (approximately 24 hours): This initial immersion in water serves multiple critical functions. Firstly, it rehydrates the almonds, softening their texture and making them easier to process. More importantly, soaking initiates the germination process, awakening dormant enzymes within the nut. This enzymatic activity begins to break down complex starches and proteins, making the almonds more digestible and enhancing nutrient bioavailability. Furthermore, soaking helps to reduce phytic acid, an anti-nutrient found in many nuts and seeds that can inhibit the absorption of essential minerals. The goal is to create a living substrate, primed for transformation.

• Remove Skins: While not strictly essential for flavor, removing the almond skins contributes significantly to the final cheese’s smooth, creamy texture and refined appearance. The skins can introduce a slightly bitter note and a grittiness that would detract from the desired mouthfeel of a gourmet cheese. This manual step, though labor-intensive, highlights Salguero’s commitment to quality and sensory perfection.

• Sprout the Soaked Almonds (approximately 2 days): This is a cornerstone of Salguero’s method, elevating the nutritional profile and flavor complexity of the base ingredient. Sprouting is a natural process where the almond seed begins to grow, further activating enzymes and synthesizing new vitamins (like B vitamins and Vitamin C). This metabolic activity also alters the almond’s flavor, often developing sweeter, more complex notes and reducing any residual bitterness. Crucially, sprouting increases the protein content and makes the amino acids more accessible. Throughout this two-day period, the almonds must be rinsed periodically to maintain moisture, preventing dehydration, while also ensuring proper drainage to allow for vital air circulation. This delicate balance of moisture and oxygen is crucial for healthy sprout development and preventing mold.

Step 2: The Fermentation Kick-off – Grinding and Inoculation

With the almonds activated and prepared, the true magic of fermentation begins.

• Grind Almonds with Fermented Coconut Milk Yogurt or Kefir: This is the inoculation phase, where the sprouted almonds are introduced to a carefully selected starter culture. Salguero specifies fermented coconut milk yogurt or kefir, chosen for their robust probiotic profiles and their ability to impart specific "cheesy" flavors. These cultures, rich in lactic acid bacteria (LAB), are responsible for initiating the primary fermentation. The LAB consume sugars in the almond paste, producing lactic acid, which lowers the pH. This acidity is crucial for several reasons: it acts as a natural preservative, inhibits the growth of undesirable microorganisms, and contributes the characteristic tang and sharpness associated with aged cheeses. The grinding process creates a thick, uniform paste, providing an ideal substrate for the microbes to thrive. The consistency is key – just enough liquid to form a cohesive, smooth paste without being watery.

• Alternative Inoculant: Rejuvelac of Alfalfa: Salguero also suggests rejuvelac, a fermented grain or legume drink, particularly from alfalfa. Rejuvelac is renowned for its high enzyme content and diverse microbial community, offering a different spectrum of flavors and probiotic benefits. Its use could lead to a distinct flavor profile, perhaps lighter and more herbaceous, reflecting the alfalfa base, while still providing the necessary lactic acid bacteria for fermentation. This flexibility in starter cultures allows for experimentation and customization of the final cheese’s character.

• Ferment for 24 hours (approximately 25°C/77°F): This initial fermentation period is where the foundational "cheesy" flavors begin to develop rapidly. The specified temperature of 25°C (77°F) is optimal for the active growth of many lactic acid bacteria, ensuring efficient sugar conversion and acid production. During this time, the paste transforms: its pH drops, its aroma deepens, and complex flavor compounds like diacetyl (buttery notes) and acetic acid (sharpness) are generated. The almond proteins begin to break down into amino acids, contributing to umami, the savory "fifth taste" that is a hallmark of aged cheeses. This stage is critical for setting the stage for the subsequent aging process.

Step 3: Shaping and Initial Dehydration – Crafting the Form

After the initial fermentation, the cheese begins to take its desired physical form and prepare for its extended maturation.

• Form into Desired Shape: Once the paste has fermented, it’s ready to be molded. This step is both aesthetic and practical. The shape of the cheese can influence how it ages, how it’s handled, and its presentation. Common shapes for artisanal cheeses include rounds, logs, or small blocks. The consistency of the fermented almond paste at this stage should be firm enough to hold its shape, much like a fresh chèvre or ricotta. This step requires a gentle touch to avoid compacting the cheese too much, which could hinder internal fermentation and air exchange.

• Dehydrate for Approximately Four Days at a Low Temperature (around 20°C/68°F): This initial dehydration phase is a masterful stroke, balancing two seemingly contradictory goals. The primary objective is to form a dry, protective crust or "rind" on the exterior of the cheese. This rind is crucial for handling, providing structural integrity, and protecting the interior from unwanted external molds and bacteria during the subsequent steps. However, the low temperature is critical because it allows the interior of the cheese to retain sufficient moisture. This internal moisture is essential for the continued, albeit slower, fermentation processes that will further develop flavor and texture during aging. This careful dehydration mimics the early stages of rind formation in traditional dairy cheesemaking, where surface drying is managed to encourage beneficial surface flora while preventing excessive moisture loss from the core.

  

Step 4: The Brine Immersion – Salting for Flavor and Preservation

Salting is a universal technique in cheesemaking, essential for flavor, preservation, and texture.

• Submerge Cheese in Seawater or Brine: Beginning on the fourth day of dehydration, and continuing for three additional days, the cheese undergoes a rigorous brining regimen. This involves submerging the cheese three times daily in either natural seawater or a prepared brine solution. This process directly mirrors how many aged dairy cheeses are salted, highlighting Salguero’s deep understanding of traditional methods. Salt plays multiple vital roles:

  • Flavor Enhancement: Salt amplifies the existing flavors and introduces its own savory notes, balancing the acidity from fermentation.
  • Moisture Regulation: Salt draws moisture out of the cheese, further firming its texture and contributing to rind development.
  • Preservation: Salt acts as a natural antimicrobial agent, inhibiting the growth of spoilage organisms while allowing beneficial cultures to thrive.
  • Rind Formation: The interaction of salt with the cheese’s surface contributes to the formation of a robust and protective rind.

• Brine Concentration (approximately 5%): If mixing a brine, Salguero recommends a 5% solution, which translates to 50 grams of salt per liter of water. This concentration is a standard in artisanal cheesemaking, providing effective salting without making the cheese excessively salty. The use of natural seawater, if available and clean, could introduce trace minerals that add further complexity to the flavor profile, offering a unique terroir-driven dimension to the cheese.

Step 5: Post-Brine Dehydration and Aging – The Maturation Journey

The final stages involve further controlled drying and an extended aging period, where the cheese truly develops its character.

• After Salting, Dehydrate Approximately 5 More Days at a Low Temperature (around 10°C/50°F): Following the brining, the cheese undergoes another round of dehydration, this time at an even cooler temperature. This phase is crucial for further reducing internal moisture, leading to a firmer, denser texture characteristic of aged cheeses. The lower temperature (10°C/50°F) significantly slows down microbial activity, transitioning the cheese from active fermentation to a controlled aging process. If a specialized dehydrator capable of maintaining such a low temperature isn’t available, a standard refrigerator can serve as an effective alternative, though careful monitoring of humidity might be required. This slow drying contributes to the development of a resilient rind and prepares the cheese for its long maturation.

• Age Cheese for 3-6 Months at Cool Ambient Temperatures: This is the longest and arguably most critical phase in Salguero’s process. Like fine wine or traditional aged dairy cheese, the vegan cheese undergoes profound biochemical transformations during this extended period. At cool ambient temperatures, a complex interplay of enzymes (from the almonds and the starter cultures) continues to break down proteins and fats into smaller, more flavorful compounds. Proteins transform into amino acids, contributing to umami and savory notes. Fats break down into fatty acids, which contribute to aroma and mouthfeel. This slow, enzymatic breakdown is what develops the deep, nuanced, and often pungent flavors associated with mature cheeses. The longer the aging, typically the more intense and complex the flavor profile becomes, rewarding patience with an unparalleled culinary experience.

The Blue Cheese Option: A Creative Twist

Adding another layer of sophistication, Salguero notes that his process can be adapted to produce a blue cheese variant. By using a pin to carefully insert blue cheese molds (typically Penicillium roqueforti) into the interior of the cheese after the initial dehydration phase, one can cultivate the characteristic blue veins and pungent flavor profile. This demonstrates the versatility of his base recipe and opens avenues for further experimentation within the realm of artisanal vegan cheesemaking. The controlled environment of aging would then allow these specific molds to flourish internally, creating a truly gourmet plant-based blue.

A second image, also accompanying this article, provides another perspective of the finished, aged vegan cheese, showcasing its inviting golden hue and robust texture, indicative of its long maturation.

The Rise of Plant-Based Gastronomy: A Global Phenomenon

Nico Salguero’s exceptional vegan cheese is more than just a recipe; it’s a powerful symbol of the accelerating global shift towards plant-based gastronomy. The demand for vegan alternatives has surged dramatically in recent years, driven by a confluence of factors: heightened awareness of animal welfare, growing concerns about the environmental impact of industrial animal agriculture, and an increasing understanding of the health benefits associated with plant-centric diets. Consumers are actively seeking delicious, sustainable, and ethically produced food options, and innovators like Salguero are rising to meet this demand with products that genuinely excite the palate.

Beyond Imitation: Crafting Unique Culinary Experiences

What sets Salguero’s creation apart is its ability to transcend the mere concept of a "substitute." While it achieves the desired "cheesy" qualities, it does so not by trying to perfectly mimic dairy cheese, but by leveraging the inherent characteristics of almonds and the transformative power of fermentation to create a unique culinary experience. This isn’t just about replacing animal products; it’s about pioneering new categories of food that stand on their own merit. The complexity derived from sprouted almonds, specific cultures, and a multi-stage aging process results in a flavor profile that is distinct, sophisticated, and deeply satisfying, appealing to vegans and omnivores alike. This approach signifies a maturation of the plant-based food industry, moving from simple replacements to genuine culinary innovation.

The Science of Fermentation: An Ancient Art, A Modern Solution

Fermentation, an ancient art practiced across cultures for millennia, is at the heart of Salguero’s innovation. It’s a transformative biological process where microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts, molds) convert carbohydrates into acids, gases, or alcohol. In the context of this vegan cheese, fermentation is the key to unlocking complex flavors, improving digestibility, enhancing nutrient profiles, and acting as a natural preservative. The lactic acid bacteria, in particular, are instrumental in developing the characteristic tang, aroma, and umami notes that make the cheese so compelling. This embrace of traditional fermentation techniques, applied to novel plant-based substrates, positions Salguero’s cheese at the forefront of a movement that harnesses microbial power for health, flavor, and sustainability. It’s a testament to how traditional wisdom can be ingeniously applied to address modern dietary trends.

Buenos Aires: A Hub for Culinary Innovation?

While Buenos Aires is famously known for its steak houses and dairy-rich pastries, Salguero’s breakthrough suggests a burgeoning undercurrent of culinary innovation. The city’s vibrant food scene, often associated with tradition, is clearly also a fertile ground for progressive ideas. The fact that such a sophisticated product originated from a student in a workshop setting speaks volumes about the grassroots enthusiasm and talent driving plant-based advancements. This could signal a broader shift, positioning Buenos Aires not just as a guardian of culinary heritage, but also as an emerging hub for cutting-edge plant-based gastronomy, where traditional techniques are re-imagined for a new era.

Challenges and Opportunities for Artisanal Vegan Cheesemakers

Nico Salguero’s detailed process, while yielding exceptional results, also highlights the significant investment of time, effort, and specialized knowledge required for artisanal vegan cheesemaking. The multi-month aging period, the need for controlled temperature and humidity, and the meticulous attention to detail at each stage present both challenges and immense opportunities. For aspiring vegan cheesemakers, understanding the nuances of sprouting, culturing, brining, and aging is paramount. The market for high-quality, artisanal vegan cheeses is still relatively niche but growing rapidly, presenting a lucrative opportunity for those who can master these complex techniques. Salguero’s generosity in sharing his process is invaluable, fostering a community of innovators and elevating the entire plant-based food sector. It underscores the importance of knowledge sharing in accelerating culinary evolution.

Conclusion

Nico Salguero’s vegan almond cheese from Buenos Aires is more than just a successful recipe; it represents a significant leap forward in the quest for truly gourmet plant-based alternatives. It is a harmonious blend of scientific understanding, artisanal dedication, and a commitment to flavor excellence. His meticulous, multi-stage process, from the initial sprouting of almonds to the extended aging, demonstrates that plant-based cheeses can indeed rival, and even surpass, the complexity and satisfaction of their dairy counterparts. This innovation serves as an inspiring beacon for the future of food, showcasing the boundless possibilities when creativity meets a deep understanding of natural processes.

For those eager to learn more or perhaps even embark on their own journey into artisanal vegan cheesemaking, Nico Salguero welcomes inquiries. Please direct any questions directly to him at nicolasrsalguero[at]gmail.com. It is important to note that Spanish is his native language, and his English communication may be limited, so patience and understanding are encouraged. His willingness to share his groundbreaking work not only enriches the culinary world but also empowers a new generation of food innovators.