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In the refined, temperature-controlled tasting rooms of London’s high-end districts, the launch of a new vintage is typically an affair of quiet contemplation and sensory analysis. But for Tarek Sakr, the head winemaker of Lebanon’s most iconic estate, Chateau Musar, the debut of the 2019 Red is framed by a reality far removed from the hushed elegance of Mayfair. As Sakr presents his latest creation to the global market, he does so with the weight of a nation in turmoil on his shoulders, offering a masterclass not just in enology, but in the harrowing logistics of producing world-class wine in an active war zone.

From roads patrolled by surveillance drones to the constant threat of aerial bombardment in the Bekaa Valley, the story of Chateau Musar’s current operations is a testament to the concept of "heroic viticulture." It is a narrative where the pursuit of the perfect phenolic ripeness must be balanced against the survival of a workforce and the preservation of a national identity.

Main Facts: A Winery Defined by Resilience

Chateau Musar is not merely a winery; it is a symbol of Lebanese endurance. Founded in 1930 by Gaston Hochar, the estate gained international renown under the stewardship of his son, the late Serge Hochar, who famously continued to produce wine throughout the Lebanese Civil War (1975–1990). Today, Tarek Sakr, who joined the estate in 1991, carries that mantle during one of the most precarious periods in the country’s modern history.

‘Always, we are on high alert’: Chateau Musar on winemaking in a warzone

The current situation is stark. Since the escalation of hostilities in early 2024, the Lebanese wine industry has been pushed to the brink. According to the Lebanese Health Ministry, over 3,000 people have been killed in Israeli air raids across the country. While Chateau Musar’s primary cellar in Ghazir remains relatively safe, 90% of its vineyards—and approximately 80 other wineries—are located in the Bekaa Valley. This ancient agricultural heartland, situated between the Lebanon and Anti-Lebanon mountain ranges at elevations between 3,000 and 5,200 feet, has become a primary theater of conflict.

For Sakr, the challenge is two-fold: maintaining the rigorous standards of a winery that was the first in Lebanon to achieve organic certification (in 2006) while navigating a landscape where the simple act of commuting to the vineyards can be a death sentence.

Chronology: From Bordeaux Traditions to the Frontlines

1991: The Transition

Tarek Sakr arrived at Chateau Musar as a fresh-faced intern, having honed his skills at the legendary Chateau Lafite Rothschild in Bordeaux. The transition was a "whiplash" experience. Moving from the structured, traditional world of French winemaking to the volatile conditions of Lebanon required a total recalibration of his philosophy. "You have to adapt your understanding of the wine world to Lebanese conditions," Sakr reflects. This early lesson in adaptability would become the cornerstone of his 37-year career.

2006–2019: Growth and Certification

Under Sakr’s technical direction, Musar pushed the boundaries of Lebanese viticulture. In 2006, the estate secured organic certification, a milestone for the region. The 2019 vintage, currently being launched, represents a period of relative stability before the compounding crises of the 2020s—the Beirut port explosion, the total collapse of the Lebanese Pound, and the current military conflict.

‘Always, we are on high alert’: Chateau Musar on winemaking in a warzone

2024: The Escalation

In March 2024, the conflict between Israel and Hezbollah intensified following targeted strikes on high-ranking officials. The Bekaa Valley, essential for its iron-rich gravel and limestone soils that give Musar its distinctive character, became increasingly dangerous. Reports surfaced of neighboring wineries, such as Chateau Rayak, suffering devastating losses—including the destruction of 60 tonnes of grapes in a single blast.

2025–2026: The Uncertain Horizon

As Sakr looks toward the 2026 harvest, the "million-dollar question" remains: how to harvest in a zone of active invasion? With the political situation shifting daily, the winery is operating on "high alert," with no clear roadmap for the coming year other than a dogged commitment to continue.

Supporting Data: The Economic and Human Toll

The impact of the conflict on the Lebanese wine industry is quantifiable and devastating. Professional analysis of the sector reveals a market in freefall domestically, countered only by the resilience of export markets.

  • Domestic Market Collapse: Chateau Musar has reported a 50% to 70% decline in domestic sales. The reasons are multi-faceted: the total absence of tourism, the closure of high-end restaurants in Beirut, and a general shift in consumer spending toward survival essentials.
  • Casualty Count: The humanitarian crisis, with over 3,000 dead and hundreds of thousands displaced, has decimated the labor force. Displaced populations mean that the seasonal workers required for the labor-intensive harvest are often unavailable or unable to reach the vineyards.
  • Infrastructure Failure: Winemakers across the Bekaa, including Eddie Chami of Mersel Wine, have documented the necessity of working by headlamp due to the near-total collapse of the national power grid. Fuel for generators, essential for temperature-controlled fermentation, is both scarce and prohibitively expensive.
  • Global Volatility: While the global wine market has faced headwinds from inflation and the Russia-Ukraine war, Sakr notes a curious outlier. The United States market remains Musar’s strongest performing sector, showing growth that offsets the losses in the Levant and Europe.

Official Responses: The Winemaker’s Testimony

In London, Sakr’s message was one of defiance. He spoke candidly about the "risky commute" to the Bekaa Valley, a journey now fraught with the threat of drone strikes.

‘Always, we are on high alert’: Chateau Musar on winemaking in a warzone

"You are putting yourself in danger, but you have to go to give salaries, take care of employees, and give them the plan," Sakr stated. "You understand you need to be there, but it is difficult."

Sakr revealed a desperate but pragmatic strategy for the upcoming seasons: "I plan to fly the Chateau Musar flag on trucks in the vineyard so warplanes can see they are the people who make the iconic bottles—hopefully providing some protection." It is a poignant image—a flag of a winery used as a shield against the machinery of modern warfare.

Regarding the philosophy of the estate, Sakr remains tethered to the legacy of Serge Hochar. "We see what’s happening in this world… and we try to adapt in a manner that we have to overcome difficulties, and at the same time protect our philosophy and knowledge of making great wines, without losing anything of our identity."

His concluding sentiment has already begun to circulate among wine enthusiasts as a mantra for the region’s survival: "We don’t make wine to live; we live to make wine."

‘Always, we are on high alert’: Chateau Musar on winemaking in a warzone

Implications: The Future of an Ancient Tradition

The implications of the current crisis extend far beyond the balance sheets of Chateau Musar. Lebanon possesses one of the oldest winemaking traditions in human history, tracing back to the Phoenicians who exported wine across the Mediterranean 3,000 years ago. The Bekaa Valley, home to the Roman Temple of Bacchus, is described by Sakr as "the Bordeaux of the ancient world."

The Threat to Terroir

Continuous bombing and the use of incendiary munitions pose a long-term threat to the soil health of the Bekaa Valley. If the land is "destroyed," as Sakr fears, the unique chemical composition of the grapes—which allows Musar to age for decades—could be irrevocably altered.

Resilience as a Brand Identity

Paradoxically, the "war wine" status of Chateau Musar has created a unique niche in the global market. Collectors often seek out Musar not just for its volatile acidity and complex spice notes, but for the story of survival contained within the bottle. However, Sakr is quick to point out that this is not a marketing ploy they ever wished for. The "message" of the wine, he argues, is for all of humanity—a reminder that culture can persist even when the world around it is being dismantled.

The Shift to Export-Dependency

With the local Lebanese market "destroyed" by "bad politics," the survival of the 80+ wineries in the Bekaa Valley now depends entirely on the international community. If logistics and shipping routes through the Port of Beirut are further compromised, the industry faces an existential threat. The ability to "adapt," as Sakr has done for 37 years, will be tested to its absolute limit in 2025 and 2026.

‘Always, we are on high alert’: Chateau Musar on winemaking in a warzone

As the 2019 Red begins to hit shelves globally, it serves as a liquid chronicle of a time just before the current storm. For Tarek Sakr and the team at Musar, every bottle corked is a small victory against the chaos—a defiant act of creation in an era of destruction. "We will find a solution," Sakr pledges. "I don’t know what it is, but we will adapt ourselves."