By Tracey Colley
September 29, 2026
This article is from: Summer 2026

London, UK – As this issue of Culture Cheese Magazine reaches shelves across the United States, the vibrant culinary heart of London is once again buzzing with an unparalleled celebration of cheese craftsmanship. The Academy of Cheese proudly hosts the fifth annual Affineur of the Year competition, an event that, over half a decade, has quietly but profoundly begun to redefine the art and science of affinage on a global scale. More than just a contest, it is a crucible of innovation, collaboration, and a testament to the transformative power residing in the hands of skilled cheese guardians.

This unique British competition stands apart from its international counterparts, challenging traditional notions and fostering an environment of daring experimentation. Here, the focus shifts from production to maturation, elevating the affineur—the often-unsung hero of the cheese world—to the spotlight they so richly deserve. The event not only champions British excellence but also ignites a global conversation about the potential for flavor, texture, and character locked within every young cheese wheel.

The Unseen Hand: Understanding the Craft of Affinage

Before delving into the specifics of this groundbreaking competition, it’s essential to understand the intricate craft it celebrates. Affinage, derived from the French word "affiner" meaning "to refine," is the process of aging cheese from its fresh, nascent state to its peak of ripeness and flavor. It is an art form that demands patience, intuition, and a profound understanding of microbiology, chemistry, and environmental control. An affineur is not merely a storage manager; they are a sculptor of flavor, a conductor of microbial orchestras, meticulously tending to each wheel, controlling temperature, humidity, and airflow, and applying various surface treatments such as brushing, washing with brines, beers, or spirits, or wrapping in leaves or cloth. This careful stewardship allows the cheese to develop its unique rind, complex aromas, and characteristic textures that consumers ultimately cherish. Without skilled affinage, even the finest cheese made by the most accomplished cheesemaker might never reach its full potential.

A Brief History of Innovation: Five Years of the Affineur of the Year

The Academy of Cheese, a leading authority in cheese education and accreditation, launched the Affineur of the Year competition in 2022 with a clear vision: to shine a light on the crucial, yet often overlooked, role of affinage in the cheese supply chain. The inaugural event was born from a recognition that while cheesemakers received accolades for their production, the transformative work of those who mature the cheese often remained in the shadows. The founders believed that by creating a platform for competitive affinage, they could inspire innovation, foster knowledge exchange, and ultimately enrich the entire industry.

From its very first edition, the competition distinguished itself by its radical format. Eschewing rigid prescriptions, it instead offered participants an unprecedented degree of creative freedom. This philosophy immediately set it apart from many established cheese awards, which primarily judge finished products against defined categories and historical standards. The initial years saw a steady increase in both the number and diversity of competitors, alongside a burgeoning fascination from the wider cheese community. Each subsequent year has built upon the last, with insights gleaned from previous competitions directly influencing the evolution of techniques, challenging Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) constraints, and demonstrating the sheer versatility of British cheeses. The fifth edition, therefore, marks a significant milestone, cementing its status as a pivotal event in the international cheese calendar and a true driver of forward-thinking affinage practices.

The Unrivalled Format: Freedom, Collaboration, and the Canvas of British Cheese

What truly distinguishes the Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition is its audacious, open-ended structure. Competitors are presented with young, unaged wheels from a selection of Britain’s most celebrated and award-winning cheesemakers. For the 2026 competition, this esteemed roster includes:

• Quicke’s Cheddar: A benchmark of traditional clothbound cheddar, known for its robust, complex flavor and firm texture.
• Trethowan Brothers Gorwydd Caerphilly: A traditional Welsh cheese, celebrated for its crumbly, moist interior and fresh, milky notes.
• Cropwell Bishop Creamery Blue Stilton: An iconic British blue, offering a creamy texture and piquant, earthy flavors.
• Fen Farm Dairy Baron Bigod: A luxurious, Brie-style cheese, rich and buttery with a distinct farmyard aroma.
• White Lake Cheese Rachel: A semi-hard goat’s milk cheese, prized for its delicate sweetness, nutty undertones, and smooth, pliable texture.

Crucially, all these cheeses are sourced from the same batch of milk for each respective variety. This meticulous control eliminates initial variations in the raw product, ensuring that any differences in the final aged cheese can be directly attributed to the affineur’s skill and chosen techniques. This level of standardization provides a scientifically robust, yet creatively unbound, foundation for the competition.

From this starting point, the traditional rules largely disappear. There are no geographical limits on where the affinage must take place, no prescribed techniques, and no predefined aging parameters. Instead, entrants are given carte blanche for experimentation. They are free to brush, wash, rub, wrap, pierce, or age the cheeses according to their own instincts, knowledge, and creative vision. Each choice, however, must be meticulously documented in a "Statement of Intent"—a detailed written account that outlines the affineur’s strategy, the techniques employed, the environmental conditions maintained, and the desired outcome. These statements are assessed by the judges alongside the finished cheeses, providing critical insight into the thought process behind the transformation.

This unstructured freedom is precisely what makes the competition so compelling and impactful. It empowers cheesemongers and cheesemakers to compete side-by-side, creating a rare level playing field that recognizes affinage as a distinct craft, yet one that is inextricably linked to both the initial production and the eventual retail experience. These competitors are not necessarily "professional affineurs" by title, but rather skilled, curious practitioners who, with the explicit consent of the original makers, are given the extraordinary opportunity to push boundaries. Freed from the often-restrictive constraints of PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) regulations and orthodox maturation paths, they explore novel combinations of humidity, surface treatments, and aging regimes, transforming familiar cheeses into deeply personal expressions of place, process, and pioneering spirit.

Supporting Data: The Pillars of Trust and Transformation

The success of the Affineur of the Year competition hinges on an extraordinary level of trust and collaboration between cheesemakers and competitors. British cheesemakers, renowned for their heritage and quality, place immense faith in the affineurs handling their young cheeses. This leap of faith has been profoundly rewarded. Past editions have not only inspired individual producers to refine their own aging practices but have, in several notable cases, led to the development of entirely new cheeses or product lines based on techniques first explored and perfected within the competition’s innovative framework. This symbiotic relationship fosters a dynamic feedback loop that benefits the entire British cheese industry.

The judging process itself is rigorous and multifaceted. A panel of esteemed international experts, including veteran affineurs, master cheesemongers, sensory scientists, and culinary critics, evaluates each entry. They assess not only the final flavor, texture, and aroma of the cheese but also the coherence and ambition of the Statement of Intent, and the execution of the affineur’s vision. The judging criteria include innovation, technical skill, sensory appeal, and the overall narrative of the cheese’s journey.

Official Responses: A Global Perspective on Innovation

This year, the judging panel is particularly excited to welcome Josh Windsor, a prominent American affineur from Murray’s Cheese in New York, to the esteemed panel. His presence underscores the competition’s growing international recognition and influence.

"I am absolutely thrilled to be judging at the Affineur of the Year awards for the first time," Windsor shared. "As an American affineur, I feel a strong sense of kinship between what the Academy of Cheese has accomplished and the work we do at Murray’s Cheese, where we mature a variety of cheeses from around the world in traditional and novel ways. Affinage is an innovative toolset for both exploring and thinking beyond the traditions and styles of cheese that are available at the counter today. Having admired from afar the creativity and craft that has arisen from previous competitions, it is incredibly exciting to now lend a professional eye to this year’s talented and inventive entries. This competition truly showcases the potential for evolution in the world of cheese."

Tracey Colley, Founding Director and Operations Officer of the Academy of Cheese, and a long-standing judge at prestigious cheese awards, emphasized the competition’s core philosophy: "Our aim has always been to elevate the affineur and celebrate the profound impact they have on the final character of cheese. We provide the highest quality raw material from our collaborating cheesemakers, and then we ask our competitors to be fearless. The results consistently exceed expectations, demonstrating that the future of cheese isn’t just about what’s made, but how it’s cared for and transformed. The trust extended by our cheesemakers is monumental, and it’s a testament to the collaborative spirit that defines this competition."

Past Triumphs and Future Inspirations: The Legacy of Dillon

A prime example of the competition’s transformative power is the story of Perry Wakeman and his remarkable cheese, Dillon. Perry, a three-time winner of the Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year title, achieved his latest triumph with Dillon, a cheese that has since entered commercial production—a dream scenario for any competitor.

Dillon began its life as a young, clothbound Quicke’s Cheddar, a cheese already steeped in tradition and quality. However, under Wakeman’s masterful hand, it underwent a unique maturation process lasting between 10 to 12 months. Perry’s signature technique involved perforating the rind with a spiked roller, creating 244 tiny holes across the surface. This seemingly simple intervention played a crucial role in managing moisture loss and encouraging a specific surface mold development, profoundly influencing the cheese’s internal environment and flavor development.

The resulting Dillon is a revelation. Its flavor profile is deeply savory and layered, an intricate tapestry of toasted butter, roasted nuts, profound mushroomy umami, and a subtle, smoky barbecue note that lingers on the palate. The texture is equally compelling: chewy, with a slight elasticity, yet flinty at the break, reminiscent of a sophisticated young Parmesan-Cheddar hybrid. Dillon perfectly encapsulates the competition’s ethos: taking an already exceptional cheese and, through inventive affinage, pushing its boundaries to create something entirely new and extraordinary. Perry Wakeman’s consistent success and the commercialization of Dillon stand as powerful affirmations of the competition’s ability to foster genuine, market-ready innovation.

Implications: Shaping the Future of British Cheese and Beyond

The Academy of Cheese’s Affineur of the Year competition is more than just an annual event; it is a vital catalyst for change and development within the global cheese industry. Its implications are far-reaching:

1. Elevation of the Affineur’s Role: By showcasing the skill and artistry required, the competition significantly raises the profile of affineurs, encouraging more individuals to pursue this specialized career path and fostering greater respect for their contribution.
2. Innovation in British Cheese: The freedom to experiment drives the creation of novel flavor profiles and textures, expanding the diversity and appeal of British cheeses. This helps British producers compete on the international stage with unique, value-added products.
3. Knowledge Exchange and Best Practices: The documentation required (Statements of Intent) and the subsequent discussions among judges, competitors, and the wider cheese community facilitate an invaluable exchange of knowledge and the dissemination of best practices in affinage.
4. Consumer Education and Appreciation: By highlighting the transformative journey of cheese, the competition educates consumers about the complex factors that contribute to a cheese’s character, encouraging a deeper appreciation for artisanal products.
5. Global Influence: The competition’s unique format and success are beginning to inspire similar initiatives in other cheese-producing regions worldwide, quietly reshaping the craft of affinage on an international scale and fostering a global network of affineurs.
6. Economic Impact: The commercial success of cheeses like Dillon demonstrates the tangible economic benefits of such innovation, opening new market opportunities for cheesemakers and affineurs alike.

The fifth edition of the Academy of Cheese Affineur of the Year competition is not merely a contest of skill; it is a celebration of potential. It underscores the belief that even the most traditional products can be reimagined, that collaboration can yield extraordinary results, and that the future of cheese is as much about careful cultivation as it is about initial creation. As the judges deliberate and the awards are presented, the reverberations of this pioneering event will continue to inspire and enrich the world of cheese for years to come.

Discover more about this year’s competition: Meet the affineurs and cheesemakers, explore the cheeses they entered, and see who took home the prizes. Plus, dive into the judging panel, standout flavors, and the stories behind the winners and finalists at academyofcheese.org/awards/affineur-of-the-year/.