CHENGDU, China (December 15, 2016) / ASHEVILLE, USA (February 2, 2017) – In a significant endeavor to explore and document the ancient and diverse world of traditional fermentation, Sandor Ellix Katz, often hailed as the "godfather of fermentation," embarked on an intensive research trip across China in late 2016. Accompanied by a dedicated team of collaborators, Katz delved into the heart of China’s culinary heritage, uncovering a tapestry of microbial transformations that underpin the nation’s gastronomic identity. The journey, meticulously documented in an eight-part video series, promises to offer unprecedented insights into practices that have sustained Chinese communities for millennia.

The expedition, spanning from November to December 2016, saw Katz traverse various regions of China, immersing himself in local foodways and engaging directly with artisans, farmers, and home cooks. The primary objective was to observe, learn, and document the myriad fermentation techniques that are integral to Chinese cuisine, from the ubiquitous soy sauces and vinegars to lesser-known regional specialties. This initiative marks a crucial step in Katz’s ongoing global mission to preserve and popularize traditional food fermentation.

Main Facts: A Collaborative Quest for Fermented Wisdom

The expedition was spearheaded by Sandor Ellix Katz, an internationally acclaimed author and educator whose seminal works, Wild Fermentation and The Art of Fermentation, have ignited a global resurgence of interest in fermented foods. Katz’s journey to China was driven by a profound curiosity to understand the origins and evolution of fermentation in one of the world’s oldest and most sophisticated culinary traditions.

He was joined by a multidisciplinary team, each member contributing unique expertise to the ambitious project:

• Mara King: A close friend and fellow fermentation enthusiast, King is a respected figure in the fermentation community, known for her deep knowledge of food culture and her ability to bridge cultural divides. Her fluency in Mandarin proved indispensable in facilitating communication and understanding nuanced cultural contexts.
• Judy King: Mara King’s mother, Judy, also fluent in Mandarin and English, provided additional linguistic and cultural support, enriching the team’s interactions and understanding of local customs. Her presence ensured smoother navigation through diverse communities and a deeper appreciation of the social fabric surrounding food production.
• Mattia Sacco Botto: A talented videographer, Sacco Botto was tasked with meticulously documenting the entire journey. His skillful capture of the sights, sounds, and processes of Chinese fermentation provides a vital visual record, forming the basis of the forthcoming educational video series.

The core purpose of the trip was to directly observe and learn about traditional fermentation practices. This involved visiting a wide array of sites, including family kitchens, artisanal workshops, bustling markets, and even larger, traditional production facilities. The team sought to understand not only the technical aspects of fermentation but also its cultural significance, its role in community life, and its historical evolution. The resulting eight-video series serves as the primary output of this extensive research, offering a visual narrative of their discoveries and experiences.

Chronology of Discovery: A Journey Through China’s Fermented Heartlands

The two-month expedition began with meticulous planning, focusing on regions renowned for specific fermentation traditions. The team’s itinerary was crafted to cover a spectrum of practices, from staple condiments to unique regional delicacies.

November 2016: Initial Immersion and Northern Traditions
Upon arrival in China, the team quickly immersed themselves in the vibrant food culture. Initial days were spent in urban centers, observing market dynamics and the availability of fermented products. Early explorations likely focused on areas known for staple ferments.

• Beijing and Surrounding Regions: While not explicitly stated, it is plausible the team began in a major northern hub. Here, they would have encountered dajiang (fermented soybean paste), zhajiangmian (noodles with fried bean sauce), and various fermented vegetables central to northern Chinese diets. Discussions with local chefs and market vendors would have provided a foundational understanding of regional preferences and historical usage. The team would have observed the role of fermentation in preserving vegetables through harsh winters and creating savory bases for stews and stir-fries.

Mid-November to Early December 2016: Sichuan’s Spicy Ferments and Beyond
A significant portion of the trip was dedicated to the southwestern province of Sichuan, a region globally celebrated for its bold, spicy, and deeply flavored cuisine. Sichuan’s culinary identity is inextricably linked to fermentation, particularly through its iconic doubanjiang (fermented broad bean paste) and paocai (fermented vegetables).

• Sichuan Province (e.g., Chengdu, Pixian): The team likely spent considerable time in Sichuan, visiting artisanal doubanjiang factories, particularly in Pixian, renowned for its centuries-old tradition of making this paste. They would have witnessed the laborious process of sun-drying broad beans, inoculating them with Aspergillus oryzae, and then fermenting them for months, or even years, in massive earthenware crocks. Mattia Sacco Botto would have captured the striking visual of thousands of vats under the sun, a testament to the scale and patience involved in traditional production. Conversations with master fermenters would have revealed secrets passed down through generations, including the precise timing, salt concentrations, and the influence of local microclimates on flavor development.
• Paocai Workshops: The team would have explored the diverse world of paocai, witnessing families and small businesses fermenting an astonishing array of vegetables, from cabbage and radishes to chilies and ginger, in various brines. This offered a glimpse into everyday fermentation, a household practice essential for flavor and preservation. The subtle differences in regional paocai — some sour, some spicy, some slightly sweet — would have highlighted the incredible diversity of microbial activity and cultural preferences.

Early December 2016: Exploring Southern and Diverse Traditions
As the trip progressed, the team would have moved to other regions, each offering its own unique fermentation landscape.

• Possible Southern China Exploration (e.g., Yunnan, Guangdong): While not explicitly stated, such a comprehensive trip would logically include areas with distinct traditions. In Yunnan, for instance, they might have encountered fermented tofu (like furu), various wild mushroom ferments, or unique rice wine practices. In Guangdong, the focus might shift to Cantonese ferments, including more nuanced soy sauces, black bean ferments, and fermented fish products. The sheer variety of ingredients and climatic conditions across China necessitates a wide range of fermentation approaches, which the team would have aimed to document.
• Tea Fermentation (Pu-erh): Given Sandor Katz’s broad interest in fermentation, it’s plausible the team also investigated the processes behind fermented teas like Pu-erh, particularly if their travels took them to Yunnan. Observing the aging and microbial transformation of tea leaves would have added another fascinating dimension to their understanding of fermentation’s role in Chinese culture.

Throughout the journey, Mattia Sacco Botto meticulously captured the entire process on video. From the bustling energy of local markets to the quiet dedication of artisans in their workshops, and the intimate settings of family kitchens, his footage provides an invaluable record. Mara and Judy King’s linguistic and cultural fluency were crucial in navigating these environments, translating complex explanations of techniques and cultural nuances, allowing Sandor Katz to delve deeper into the why and how of each practice. The expedition culminated in a wealth of firsthand observations and recorded material, forming the foundation for the educational video series.

Supporting Data and Cultural Context: The Deep Roots of Chinese Fermentation

China’s relationship with fermentation is not merely culinary; it is deeply embedded in its history, philosophy, and daily life. The expedition provided a unique opportunity to witness this profound connection firsthand.

China’s Rich Fermentation Heritage: A Millennia-Old Tradition

Fermentation in China dates back thousands of years, with archaeological evidence suggesting the production of fermented beverages as early as 9,000 years ago. Over millennia, Chinese ingenuity developed an astonishing array of fermented foods and beverages, driven by the need for preservation, flavor enhancement, and nutritional enrichment. Staple ferments like soy sauce, vinegar, and various bean pastes are not just ingredients; they are foundational pillars of Chinese cuisine, shaping its characteristic umami and complexity. The practices observed by Katz and his team are direct descendants of these ancient traditions, often passed down through generations within families and communities, representing an unbroken chain of microbial wisdom.

Diverse Fermentation Landscapes: Regional Specialization

The vast geographical and climatic diversity of China has led to an equally diverse range of fermentation practices.

• Northern China: Characterized by wheat and millet cultivation, features a strong tradition of dajiang (fermented soybean paste) and fermented wheat products. The colder climate necessitated robust preservation methods.
• Sichuan and Southwestern China: Known for its humid climate, is a hotbed for chili-based ferments like doubanjiang and a wide variety of paocai, which contribute to its famously bold and spicy flavors.
• Southern China (e.g., Guangdong, Fujian): With its warmer climate and proximity to the sea, boasts sophisticated soy sauce and fish sauce production, along with fermented tofu and various rice-based ferments.
• Yunnan Province: A region of immense biodiversity, offers unique ferments utilizing local mushrooms, wild herbs, and specific tea varieties like Pu-erh.

The team’s journey would have revealed how local ingredients, climate, and cultural preferences have shaped distinct microbial ecosystems and unique fermentation techniques, creating a culinary map as varied as the country itself.

The Science and Art of Traditional Fermentation: A Holistic Approach

Traditional Chinese fermentation is a blend of empirical science and intuitive art. Artisans often operate without modern scientific equipment, relying instead on keen observation, sensory evaluation, and an intimate understanding of the process developed over decades.

• Koji Cultivation: Many Chinese ferments, particularly soy sauce and bean pastes, rely on the cultivation of koji (often Aspergillus oryzae or similar molds) to break down complex carbohydrates and proteins into simpler, flavorful compounds. The team would have observed the careful preparation of qu (pronounced "choo"), the Chinese equivalent of koji, a starter culture often made from grains or legumes, which is crucial for initiating fermentation.
• Open-Air Fermentation: The extensive use of large, open-air crocks, particularly for doubanjiang, highlights a reliance on ambient microbes and climatic conditions. This method, while seemingly less controlled than modern industrial processes, allows for the development of complex flavors and unique microbial profiles influenced by the specific environment.
• Sensory Evaluation: The expedition would have showcased the importance of sensory skills – sight, smell, taste, and even touch – in determining the readiness and quality of fermented products. This "art" aspect is critical, where experience guides the fermentation process more than strict scientific measurements.

The Team’s Complementary Expertise: A Synergy of Skills

The success of the expedition was undoubtedly amplified by the complementary skills of the team. Sandor Katz brought his encyclopedic knowledge of fermentation theory and practice, along with a deep respect for traditional methods. Mara and Judy King provided the crucial linguistic and cultural bridge, enabling genuine interaction and understanding that would have been impossible otherwise. Their ability to navigate social protocols, interpret local dialects, and explain complex concepts ensured that Katz could access authentic practices and insights. Mattia Sacco Botto’s role was equally vital, transforming fleeting observations into enduring visual documentation, allowing the broader world to partake in the discoveries. This synergy allowed for a holistic exploration, capturing not just the technical details but also the human stories behind the ferments.

Official Responses and Dissemination: Sharing the Fermented Narrative

While the expedition was a personal research initiative rather than a government-sponsored program, the "official response" manifests in the meticulous documentation and subsequent public sharing of the findings. The primary vehicle for disseminating the knowledge acquired during the trip is the eight-part video series produced by Mattia Sacco Botto.

The Video Series: A Window into Chinese Fermentation

The video series, hosted on Sandor Katz’s "Wild Fermentation" platform, serves as the cornerstone of the expedition’s legacy. Each video segment provides a rich, visual narrative of specific practices, regions, and products. This format allows viewers to:

• Witness Techniques Firsthand: See the hands-on processes of making doubanjiang, paocai, soy sauce, and other ferments.
• Experience Cultural Context: Observe the environments, communities, and traditions surrounding these food practices.
• Learn from Experts: Hear from local artisans and Sandor Katz himself as they explain the intricacies and significance of each ferment.
• Engage with the Journey: Follow the team’s discoveries and challenges, creating an immersive educational experience.

This video series effectively acts as the public report of their findings, making complex traditional knowledge accessible to a global audience.

Sandor Katz’s Platform: A Hub for Fermentation Education

Sandor Katz’s website, books, workshops, and public appearances provide robust channels for further dissemination and discussion of the insights gained from the China trip. He frequently incorporates new learnings from his travels into his teachings, enriching the global fermentation discourse. The China expedition’s findings will undoubtedly influence future editions of his books, his lectures, and his philosophy on fermentation. His unique position as a leading voice in the fermentation movement ensures that these valuable insights reach a wide audience of home fermenters, culinary professionals, and academic researchers.

Impact on the Global Fermentation Community: Inspiring New Horizons

The release of the video series and the subsequent discussions generated by Katz’s sharing of his experiences are expected to have a significant impact on the global fermentation community.

• Increased Awareness: It will undoubtedly raise awareness and appreciation for the depth and breadth of Chinese fermentation traditions, which may be less familiar to Western audiences compared to European or Japanese ferments.
• Inspiration for Experimentation: Home fermenters and professional chefs may be inspired to explore new ingredients, techniques, and flavor profiles, leading to innovative culinary creations.
• Cross-Cultural Exchange: The documentation fosters a greater understanding and respect for diverse food cultures, encouraging cross-cultural dialogue and collaboration within the fermentation world.

The expedition’s findings, meticulously documented and widely shared, serve as an invaluable contribution to the collective knowledge base of fermentation, enriching the global understanding of this ancient and vital practice.

Implications and Future Outlook: Preserving, Bridging, and Inspiring

The China fermentation expedition, though concluded in 2016, carries profound implications for the future of food, culture, and sustainable practices.

Preserving Ancestral Knowledge: A Race Against Time

One of the most critical implications of such documentation efforts is the preservation of ancestral knowledge. In an era of rapid industrialization and globalization, traditional foodways are often at risk of being lost or diluted. By meticulously documenting the practices of artisanal fermenters and home cooks, Sandor Katz and his team have created a vital archive. This helps ensure that the intricate techniques, the wisdom of generations, and the unique microbial heritage of Chinese ferments are not forgotten but instead are available for future generations to learn from and adapt. This preservation is not just for historical record but as a living resource for maintaining food diversity and resilience.

Bridging Cultures Through Food: A Universal Language

Food, particularly fermented food, serves as a powerful bridge between cultures. The expedition vividly illustrates how a shared interest in microbial transformation can foster deep cross-cultural understanding. By engaging with local communities, respecting their traditions, and learning their practices, the team not only gathered data but also built relationships. The video series, in turn, allows a global audience to vicariously participate in this cultural exchange, promoting empathy and appreciation for the diverse ways humanity interacts with its environment and sustains itself. This cross-cultural dialogue is essential for fostering a more interconnected and understanding world.

Inspiring Home Fermenters and Professionals: Expanding Horizons

The insights from the China trip will undoubtedly inspire both seasoned fermentation enthusiasts and curious newcomers.

• For Home Fermenters: The videos provide practical demonstrations and demystify complex processes, empowering individuals to experiment with new ingredients and techniques in their own kitchens. This promotes food independence and a deeper connection to what they eat.
• For Culinary Professionals: Chefs and food innovators can draw inspiration from the ancient wisdom and diverse flavor profiles, integrating traditional Chinese fermentation into contemporary cuisine. This can lead to exciting new culinary trends and a renewed appreciation for fermented ingredients in fine dining.
• For Researchers: The documentation may also spark further scientific inquiry into the unique microbial communities and health benefits associated with specific Chinese ferments, contributing to our understanding of the human microbiome and nutrition.

The Evolving Fermentation Movement: Growth and Diversification

Sandor Katz’s China expedition is a testament to the dynamic and evolving nature of the global fermentation movement. It highlights a growing desire to move beyond well-known Western ferments and explore the rich tapestry of practices from around the world. Trips like this encourage a more inclusive and comprehensive understanding of fermentation, pushing the boundaries of what is considered "fermented food." As the movement matures, it will increasingly rely on such deep dives into diverse culinary traditions to discover new techniques, ingredients, and philosophies, ensuring its continued growth and relevance in addressing contemporary food challenges, from sustainability to gut health.

The People’s Republic of Fermentation expedition represents more than just a research trip; it is a profound cultural journey that enriches our collective knowledge and appreciation for one of humanity’s oldest and most vital culinary arts. The legacy of this trip, captured in the eight-part video series, will continue to educate, inspire, and connect people across borders, fostering a deeper understanding of the microbial world that shapes our food and our lives.